wherry

How come I've just replied to a post from May 2014?? johnnyboxer I'll get you... *said in a Dick Dastardly voice*

Someone may come on and tell us all the annealing technicalities and fair enough. When I bent mine though I took it off the bike, mounted it in a vise and gently heated the bend with a butane gas torch whilst applying a bit of pressure on the end. Once it got to a suitable temperature it easily bent a few degrees then stopped. I heated it again and again it bent a few degrees. I repeated probably about 6 or 7 times until it was back where I wanted it. Never had a problem with it afterwards.

+1 on that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcUeothSPyc

Where are OSSA, if anywhere, in all this?

+1 on new tyres. It'll make the world of difference.

Just a thought but if you've maybe used up all your current enthusiasm go away and do something else for a week or two. Then come back to it with a clearer mind and renewed enthusiasm.

Yup you could build it up with a 2-pack filler as above or maybe try Lumiweld. I must admit I haven't heard much at all about Lumiweld for quite a few years now but it still exists according to Google. We used to use it during vintage car restorations years ago. It's a low temperature 'welding' product.

Yep. Older Mont 315 wheels are 36. Certainly my '02 with the slotted rim and my previous '99 with the solid flange are both 36 hole.

2. I haven't worked with the Dellorto PHBH 26 carb; anything weird to look out for? Yes it has 2 pilot jets one under the other. The one at the bottom of the casting has some tiny holes in it that will block up if you look at it the wrong way! Once you've cleaned the carb it makes sense to put an inline fuel filter on the fuel supply.

The only thing that made my old single pot brake caliper behave was a new AJP master cylinder.

Looks like it's a conversion by Peter Jerrad according to #8 of this old thread - http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/4130-fraser/

OK here's some for starters. May 1985. If memory serves this was the 1st trial I did on the new to me Italjet. I think the hill climb turned out to be a 4th gear blast - 3rd just wasn't enough.. I quite liked the green with the white mudguards and replaced the pattern ones on here then with some proper, almost square section Italjet ones from somewhere in Colchester that was a dealer for them back then.

FWIW in my experience the best pads I tried were the Braking pads. Whatever pads you have you can improve matters by getting the disc nice and hot by riding around with the brake on, then throwing some cold water over it all. Don't ask me the technical aspects of why/how it works - it just does! If that still doesn't do the trick the one thing that made my single pot Grimeca brakes work well was to ditch the old Grimeca master cylinder and put a new 4RT AJP master cylinder on. Reasonably expensive but compared to having a cr4p brake with a variable biting point, worth every penny. I spent quite a time with poor brakes and tried re-building everything. Nothing made any difference except changing the M/C. I think the bore gets worn so even putting a seal kit in doesn't make much difference. Just my thoughts. I hope you get satisfaction..

Early 90s K-Roo by the look of it.

Mmmm I'm in the former. July '85 with some Falcons and some Heath Robinson rear brake mods

Ha Ha. You're serious aren't you? What a load of cobblers. Try a slightly more Scientific Approach. Edit. After all morning thinking about this I think I see what you mean now, fabio. I'll retract the cobblers bit but flippin' 'eck you could have explained it better. And it only works for the 2001 - 2004 models.

It's very difficult to decide in real time isn't it.. I watched all the vids last night on motorcyclemptyness1's YouTube channel and you could argue that nearly all the top boys paused momentarily at some point. Dan Thorpe certainly rode it for a clean, as did Shaun Fox. I agree with Johnny above, it seems to me that some riders haven't really changed their styles or attitudes much yet to cope with the no-stop rules but I suspect that they will have to in time if these rules keep going. From an observing point of view it seems clear that the new/old rules will have to be marked harshly and any pause given a 5, otherwise it's all down to the judgement of the observer - How long is a pause? Did I give him/her more time than the previous person? Stating the obvious, if you've stopped, however momentarily, you've stopped so a 5 is given. Sounds simple doesn't it but it's not when you're persuaded into taking a clipboard at the start, and everyone is looking at you at your section to see what you'll give. All observers deserve a medal.

Great videos, Chewy, thanks for putting them up. I have no axe to grind either way, and I'd be happy to ride to whatever rules apply on the day, but the first video of the adults does highlight how difficult to observe TSR22B can be. About 40 mins in the Experts have got to the section with the nasty rocky step immediately followed by a tricky side slope. Some of them are hopping on the move, to a greater or lesser extent, to help get lined up. Some fail to get up. Some get up the step and just about manage the side slope. Most of them it could be argued have stopped at least a couple of times. It's just really difficult to decide who has stopped and who hasn't and how long a 'pause' can be... Tricky! Anyway, thanks again. The sections look good.

Sorry, BOSTIT, your link doesn't work. Looks like it should be This. Is that the one?

On the PHBH the mixture screw works on the air circuit so out = leaner (more air).

Not a question of not rating them. They are an excellent bike generally - usually considered to be just behind Honda/Montesa build quality but ahead of the others. The Revs had/have a bit of a reputation for getting through stators with alarming regularity. The rear suspension is non linkage which means the shock is a fairly specialised piece of kit which may not be easy to rebuild should that be necessary - the Beta owners would be able to advise obviously. Get a good one though and they are great bikes- just the riding position is different to other bikes I've ridden. I'm sure if I rode one for a bit I'd soon get used to it.

You'll just have to suck it and see! Found the dating info Here if that helps in due course. Yep dog bone linkage setup. I haven't ever looked closely at a Gasser setup so I don't know how it compares but it will be similar I should imagine. Another thing to have a check of is the suspension movement generally. Front forks can probably be serviced relatively cheaply if necessary but if the rear unit doesn't have any damping or seems iffy then that could be serious money I'd have thought.

Hi and welcome back to trials and to the forum. Bike looks like a 1999 to me. The forks are right for a '99 as they look a grey/black colour in the photo. Rear caliper is right for an earlier bike by the look of it. You can tell by the frame number as you say. The info is on here somewhere if you have a look. Red rear guard and shiney pipe might be later additions. Difficult to say from the pic but it looks like it hasn't got a Montesa rear wheel. They have a rim flange and 2 piece spokes. Might not make any difference to you but might be worth checking it's all put together OK. If it has been bodged together it would be making me very suspicious about other stuff, possibly unseen stuff... If it's got the PHBH carb on it it might not go very well unless the PO has cleaned the carb properly - easy once you know! Be worth checking rear suspension. Get it off the ground if you can and wiggle the back wheel up and down a bit to see how much play there is in the linkage. If there's a lot you might be looking at new bearings etc which will be at least