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got a manual for a 2017 happy to send it to you PM me your direct e mail addrress and I'll send it via wetransfer

Hello yes It was from SW trials as you thought. For the purchaser with money to burn?

ebay uk now GasGas TXT 250 270 280 AJP Clutch Lever ( M/C + Lever + Hose ) £50 . Item no 116709663436 MX & Trials Spares WS6 6LS Tel 07872329743.

Hi does anyone still have a workshop manual for a 2016 please ?

I need to find a clutch master cylinder for a gasgas txt 280 2001 model. Any hints would be grateful

As trials central is a UK site, I'm assuming you're here ?

Describe the symptoms, there is a huge knowledge base available here, you might be able to do a lot or all the work yourself, as motorcycles go it's not a hard one to learn to work on, almost for certain the original bike purchase included a very good parts and service manual, you need one 👍

I have just purchased a 1978 Montesa 348, can any one point me in the direction of a specialise who can do work on such bikes? Looking at manly engine/gearbox including full rebuilds, Kind Regards John

A 1978 TY250 was left in a stable of a house I bought. After 20yrs of looking at it, I thought I'd get it going. The job was nearly done, but I fear I've just messed it up. The last step was installing a new carb, after which it started fine (multiple times) and sounded decent but did not have enough revs to tick over when the throttle was released. I was adjusting the Idle Adjust Screw, turning it clockwise, and starting to observe an increase in idle revs, when I realised I'd left the choke on. I turned the choke off, and the engine died. Since then I have not been able to start the bike. Not even close. Suspecting that after many failed starting attempts I had flooded it, I drained the carb and removed the plug. Neither the plug nor the cylinder was wet with fuel. Good spark observed outside the bike. Checked there was fuel to carb. Refilled fuel tank. If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them. Thanks.

The tank seat shown on the B&J Racing page is fibreglass and is a Sammy Miller Products tank seat and may be old stock. When you said the A model is lighter than the later ones, do you mean the whole bike or the fuel tank? The CDE models have the lightest rims, being Japanese copies of the lightweight AKRONT trials rims. The A model have lightest swingarm. CDE swingarms have more elaborate gusseting near the pivot. The BCDE flywheel is much heavier than the A model. The BCDE engine covers are lighter than the A model. The lightest tank I've found is a Majesty shape made from very thin aluminium. I bought it from France Trial Classic in about 2008. It dents very easily. I'm not sure if they are still available, but there is/was an aluminium steering stem/axle available. It is a lot lighter than the original. Also the top bolt and slotted nut for the steering axle. There is/was an aluminium swingarm inner bush available. I replaced all the wheel axle spacers with aluminium items.

Feetupfun, thank for the clarification, it shed some light on my confusion. I do have the WES exhaust, and a few other items installed already. I have the forks setup using the InMotion aluminum damper rods and Trials France magical springs. I have an original fuel tank that is in fantastic condition, I am nervous about smashing it up, which sent me down the path of looking for a different fuel tank and possibly a weight saving in the process. The Shedworks tank and seat assembly looks fantastic, but it gets quite pricey to ship to the US. Interestingly, according to the internet the A version was lighter than the later TYs. Possibly a Majestic tank, long fender, and a late model seat with fiberglass pan could be a good option. Something like the attached pics. BJ Racing has a tank seat combination that looks much like the Shedworks, but I think it is all fiberglass and does not have the inner aluminum tank. http://bjracing.com/id121.html hard to tell.

You can load up photos here,click on add files and you will be able to upload photos

The 10w40 should be more than up to the job unless it’s very poor quality. These things will happily change up and down without the clutch just by matching the revs. My gearbox is 20 years old and never been touched!! I have always found 10w40 to stand up better to heat and more abuse than Elf and light gear oils. The lights ALWAYS give a better clutch when cold but they get very grabby and snatchy when working hard. I run Motul 300v factory line for both engine and gear box. **** when cold, but isn’t affected by heat and hard riding. Another thing with the Mont clutch is that you generally need full pull of the lever to find neutral. Any fingers between the lever and bars makes finding neutral tricky. Using the short lever helps, then it’s just 1 finger right at end next to the ball.

Sorted with a ball end allen key. Thanks.

Kubota Premium UDT Hydraulic/Transmission Fluid specifically formulated for transmissions with wet brakes as well as power steering and power takeoff units with wet clutches 👍 At a small fraction of the cost of what those other guys use, I can change it out twice as often and still save money.

For a slimmer look, you could fit the later model seat and rear guard. For an A model frame, this would need some frame tabs added for the seat mounts. The A model airbox is compatible with all known seat/tank/mudguard options. What you wrote about the airbox forming part of the rear guard applies to all TY250 twinshock models. The A model (and B model which was not sold in the USA) rear mudguard arrangement going from front to rear has airbox then seat shroud/fairing then short plastic mudguard. The C, D and E models have airbox then long plastic mudguard. If you want to use the Shedworks tank/seat, you will need to buy a later model rear mudguard. As for buying a later model (long) rear guard https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/ty-250-rear-mudguard-white/ If you want it to feel lighter to ride, replace the standard exhaust with a WES exhaust. The later model TY250 fuel tank is made of aluminium and is lighter than the steel A model TY250 tank.

If you can't get ELF HTX740 then GRO TRANS EXTREM 75W is the go for the transmission oil from my experience, never had an issue with either.

Me too but I’m trying to do the simple things first, like changing oil, before kicking a fuss with the dealer it came from. Practice area was mild, not overly hot, mid-evening (UK, so 20° maybe more). Easy rolling practice around some trees on a slope. After a short while it was getting tough to change gears. After an hour it refused to change and refused neutral unless off. After riding down the lane back to the van and the bike being a bit cooler, it would shift a bit easier. Off and cold, the shifting feels a bit clunky but monts are new to me (vs the ‘83 TLR, ‘16 Sherco, and all the trail and road bikes).

I find it hard to believe 10W40 oil could cause that malady.

I'm interested,What do you want for it

got one but been cut in half and gluded back to gether if any good ?

I really like the looks of the Shedworks Tank/Seat combination; however, I can't figure out if it is compatible with the 1974 TY250? I struggle to understand what is compatible with the rear fender that uses the fiberglass seat pan. In all the pictures I see it seems the models are later versions, with a different rear mudguard and I can't find this other mudguard for sale (I have the short mudguard where the air box is part of the rear mudguard). Is a different rear fender needed for this to work? Is the stock air box compatible with the Shedworks setup? I also see majesty style aluminum tanks that look good, they seem to use a different rear fender as well. I am trying to cut weight, have a more "sleek/narrow" look and feel to the bike. Thoughts? Which would be considered better, or is there another option to clean up the bike? Thank you Glenn

Gauss Gauss, brilliant! Wish I had thought of that! PM system says you cannot accept mail. Intentional, or full mailbox?

So nothing has changed? Assume you mean Dex 6, not Dex 11? Might try some D6 before spunking on elf.

My son runs elf. I run dex vi Go figure.