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I was wondering about this adjustment. I have one with a broken cable I recently fixed. I adjusted it for Freeplay at idle. If you push on the lever you can feel it against the rotating cam. With this proper adjustment number from the book, I am in spec. Good forum.

Awesome insight, thanks all! super helpful. Appreciated greatly

If your rear drum is worn (bigger than standard), new shoes will not match the curvature of the drum, causing the friction material to have a reduced contact patch area. If you have your shoes relined and machined as Kurtas suggested, the friction material curvature can be matched to your drum curvature, giving full contact surface area. To determine if this is your problem, pull the rear wheel out and have a look at the friction material. It will be shiny where it is touching. The areas that are shiny are the only bits that are doing anything to slow your bike down. The other aspect of your brake performance is that the co-efficient of friction of your lining material may not be as high as what is available, so when the shoes get lined, choose a material that increases the co-efficient of friction.

EBC are ok but they are not peak performance which you seem to be after. An example of someone who does it below but you coould find someone who does it for forklifts or the like locally to you. https://villiersservices.co.uk/product/brake-shoe-re-lining-service/

Thanks Kurtas, pads have been in a few months - front works OK (and is new too).. im not sure what you mean by 'having pads of a suitable friction material applied to brake shoe'? i thought the EBC were a good choice? i swapped them out from the original OEM that still had some life left in them, but they really sucked, so had expected some improvement with the EBC...just exploring options - hence wondering about that brake extender arm...if there is a better brake pad i can get lmk! i ride on the road so just need something that inspires a little more confidence!

It takes some time for pads to bed in and have full contact with the drum. You might want to go down the path of having pads of a suitable friction material applied to the brake shoe so you can match the diameter of your drum.

Thanks RonH. Unfortunately they don’t ship to the US.

Welcome to the forum! I found the following. Hope it helps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204636602989

Hey there, I’m new to the forum and to trials. I am restoring an older gas gas. It is it getting any spark and I’m thinking the ignition module is bad. It’s a motoplat with the numbers 06 10 on it. Any idea where k can get parts for this machine? Thank you. brian

Hey friends, any thoughts on this for the reflex? I've installed new EBC grooved pads but rear brake is still terrible! - is re machining the drum a better option? thanks for any insight before i drop some $$

Thanks, so headlight off, and connect it to the horn. Brliiant, easier than i thought!!

In my "spam" folder this morning ticket discounts - looks like the GP is in UK again next year after the fantastic event at Kettering this year. The 26 event will be in Anglesey at the venue that was cancelled the last time round. I hope they get it right this time.

Horns draw a considerable amount of power, even more when they get old and rusty or full of water. ~30 watts is typical, the 4RT has a significant large alternator on board to accommodate the fuel pump and fan, the alternator windings are oil cooled which works brilliantly if you should be stressing the limits. Conserving power consumption from other accessories such as the high beam and horn leaves that power for your little heat strips. I would be way more concerned about cooking the stator by running heaters on my TRS. I don't winter ride the lakes much I ride the same back woods trails we ride the rest of the year, way more fun . Competition soft compound tires can't withstand much below single digit minus centigrade temperatures and a heated garage with the riding area right outside my door makes it possible, caution that at minus 22C riding the knobs will peal right off your rear tire. Stored in extreme cold trials tires crack the sidewalls if you leave the bike sitting on them at low pressure. When you are running 1740 GripStuds in subzero temps on ice and snow it is advisable to run higher then normal low tire pressures so that the sidewalls don't crack so badly, 👍 studded trials tires are awesome fun and extend the riding season by months here. Since running studded tires I even look forward to winter riding 😎

I'm fussy with gloves, and have tried the heatpacks to no avail. I get what your saying about clutch/brake finger, thats the 1 that struggles, am hoping a warm bar will be enough to defrost it. Are you being serious, i can really drive it from the horn wiring? I've ridden the 4ride in sub zero temps several times, and never had starting issues. It's used more for technical single track than trials type stuff.

They are here: https://www.baselinemarine.com/shopexd.asp?id=544

That's are excellent observation that I know would be true. When I used to ride motorcycles on frozen lakes, a set of handlebar mittens was mandatory. These were permanently attached to the handlebars, and covered all the controls (and you still wore riding gloves). I think they were called Hippo Hands, but their current design is really different from what I remember. Maybe the ones for MTBs would be most appropriate?

One problem you might encounter with the 4RT in winter is sub-zero engine starting as I did, if your engine oil gets too cold it will make cold starting difficult to impossible. I even tested 0W winter grade engine oil but had no success with that. Be ready to build a small fire under your bike to sub-zero cold start it.

Better control over the operating temperature sounds like a very good idea, I have the heated grips on a little snowmobile and find the heat too intense to operate continuously and need to toggle the heaters on and off to reduce the intensity to a tolerable rate. When I winter ride my trials bike it is the clutch lever finger that freezes first and has me pausing regularly to warm my fingers on the engine, the grip heaters do little to address that. Hotshots chemical heat packs inserted into the back of your regular riding gloves work as an alternative to the grip heaters, but similarly do little to warm the lever fingers. I have heard of local riders using the electric heaters on the control levers instead of the grips, but have not personally attempted that yet.

I will cheers

Try central wheels

Heated gloves might consume less power. 13W each 26 total and you can get a controller to adjust heat better. example: gloves https://www.gerbing.com/collections/12v-heated-gloves/products/gerbing-12v-heated-glove-liners?variant=45244436054307 controller https://www.gerbing.com/collections/heated-motorcycle-plugs-and-temperature-controllers/products/gerbing-12v-single-zone-temperature-controller-knobbed?variant=44879387394339

Roughly the same power as your horn. 🤓 Don't use the horn at the same time as your heated grips and there should be no issue.

Has anyone fitted heated grips to a 4ride (or a 4RT assuming they are the same) ? Splat shop do some sticky back heated elements that you then slip normal grips over the top, it says they consume 36W, will my 4 ride have enough power to drive them? And where am i best tapping into the wiring loom to take the feed?

Inch Perfect have a pre-order email out today. There are 125 250 and 300cc versions. Price is TBA. https://beta-uk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=21684

Thanks for posting that alternative. About time. Electric and RHS starters will make me consider Beta again. I've had two and consider the starting dumb. Actually- why was the lever 3" too short? Actually my Beta dirtbike (ok so 3 Betas) has Electric. A couple of kilos means Im not puffing every section before I start riding my TRS which is an advantage over my Betas and GGs. For the Club rider this is a real advantage. Good on Beta.