Aircooled Monoshocks

A quick question? Does anyone know if a specialist tool is available to hold the inner fork mechanism when loosening the retaining bolt at the bottom of the fork leg? I read in an earlier posting that people have mede them with a Hex bolt welded to a piece of steel bar? Does anyone know the correct bolt head size to use? thanks Rob

Here I go again, trying to talk myself into or out of another motorcycle restoration. I've already started on the engine and I had been debating on keeping it as a "spare" but I have the frame it came out of.... So toying with the idea of jumping in on another one. Any words of encouragement or discouragement would be appreciated. I am missing the following parts: Fuel tank, seat, front wheel, front axel, and the brake light switch.

Anyone know if there is a place (preferably in the USA) that can rebuild a mono shock, shock absorber? Thanks, Jim

Picked up another TY350 today, loaded with spares, including an NOS std bore piston and rings! Score!!

I have a couple broken fins on a Mono cylinder, I'd like to repair them but I'm not sure if the parent material is aluminum or magnesium. I know the side covers are magnesium but not sure about the finned cylinder. If anyone knows which it is, please let me know. Thanks, Jim

I understand that in 1986 improvements to the TY frame were made, anyone know just what they are? Thanks

What are you running for gearbox oil in your TY250 or 350?

TY350, sat open out in the weather for a bit, crank is stuck transmission is free, I have the rest of the parts minus the wrist pin. Bore and piston are perfect. If it's worth rebuilding I'll send it to B&J Racing, just looking for opinions.... I know, it's a crime but I'm not the one who did this!

Just got an 86 ty250r and had the top end off for a look. It's not bad but has some scratches. It's got a piston with 50 stamped on the crown. Also has a shaped crown rather than even curves. Only have ordinary vernier calipers so only measred the bore at the very top. Seems to be 68mm there. Can anyone tell from any of this whether it's already been rebored. Does the 50 mean 0.5 oversize? Also any one know if Birketts will still do the 270 kit & shorten the inlet tract? Last posts i've seen were about 4 or 5 years ago. Cheers.

It's a 1984 TY 250 mono. It's got the shock with the remote reservoir. I've taken the preload to the max and wound the spring to it's tightest setting with the two locking rings. The back end bottoms out far too easily - I'm about 100kg with all my gear on. Is there anything else I can do? Does anyone do a heavy duty spring? Should I put a packer in front of the lock rings so they compress existing spring more? My guess is I'll lose some travel but it might be worth it? Should I lay off the beer and pies to lose a few kg's (I think this has to be a very last resort)? Any advice greatly appreciated.

Taken from Dirt Bike Rider, October 1986

I found an online manual for the TY350 mono that says cylinder head nuts torque to 22nm. Is the setting the same for the TY250 mono? Does anyone know where I can download a 250 Mono manual? Thanks

Does anyone do lowering brackets for the TY mono foot pegs? I know Sammy Miller does them for the twinshock. I'm keen to avoid cutting and welding if I can. If I can't avoid cut and weld does anyone have any drawings to help fabrication?

Hi All Looking for some advise please...MY 1985 TY 250 Mono starts ok and would run ok, however, it keeps "hunting" and pinging once it gets hot...I have decoked the piston and exhaust, and even fitted a Mikuni carb to see if that makes any difference, but the same thing happens with the Mikuni as it does with the original Yam carb.. I've done all the other usual stuff like new plug and made sure both carbs are clean and using fresh fuel.. Does anyone have any ideas What I can try next?

With the cable disconnected I have maybe 20mm of free play on the clutch arm. Am I right in thinking I need to screw the adjuster on the pressure plate in to remove this free play then back the adjuster off a half turn maybe? The biting point of the clutch is near the end of the lever travel, the friction plates look ok. Is there a stack height for the clutch plates? Cheers.

Bought this last week. Suspension linkages at the rear are very loose, no bearing in the top of the steering head & the front wheel is badly buckled, oh and the engine doesn't run either.

I posted an enquiry about preparation of Honda Tlm200 and Tlm220 motorcycles for Trials on the Honda Forum but no response so far. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/54936-tlm200-and-tlm220-preparation-for-trials/ Can anybody on this Forum provide advice? Gracias Esteve

Anyone fitted one of those nice looking fiberglass covers on there Mono Yam??? Two things, Fit???, Quality, do they take a knockor two.

hi any info on chapman bsa as just got mine out of shed after 9 yrs looking at v5 and frame no /engine no all match no 0618 not sure if it is no 6 or 18 the first keepers f lewis of worcester as reading forum they say only 20 were made

Im restoring this 1986 GasGas 325 Halley at the moment and Ive run into a problem. The rear wheel around the bearing is cracked beyond repair. Weld would simply break at this stress point and in any case the metal does even take weld, particularly well. Welding is out of the question. It is a Nagesti 120mm internal diameter drum rear hub. Nagesti were absorbed into Akront. Merlins were fitted with 110mm Nagesti's so this is not good enough. Does anyone have any knowledge of other bikes that this rear hub was fitted to ? Thanks in advance