SWM

I have acquired a TL320 this summer. I know these things are quite noisy - and nearly bullet proof. Inspections of clutch (to try solving the clutch'problem') and inspections of barrel and head, indicates that the engine is very fine. Anyway - it has a lot of mechanical noises and there seems to be some play either at the top-end or the big-end of the rod. I haven't measured it and it is just recognisable. (A lot of the noise is transferred by the fins on the head I have noticed) Do anyone know where to find the specifications of service limits, wear outs etc. for the Rotax engine?

My SWM TL320 1982 has had a few updates so heres a few notes for others that maybe doing similar. New tyres michelin front; IRC rear, new wheel and str. head brgs., new chain and sprockets, new EBC brake shoes, fuel tap, new rear guard and new stickers. Heres a list on some of the work to date. 1. Stg. head brgs. not available in Oz [supplied from Martin at SWM moto]. 2. The sprocket I had on the rear had a steel insert /hub which offset the sprocket from the hub approx. 2mm. When I replaced with talon sprocket without a recess I used 2mm thick washers and ground them on one side so the chain wouldn't foul on them. 3. Sprocket bolts were loose when i went to change…

Hi Guys, I noticed that the shocks are not parallel - the top being narrower. Based on the theory that this will put some side load on the shock pistons I was thinking NJBs might be the go? Any thoughts? Has anybody retrofitted any brand with heim style bearings aka last model of Husky twin shocks? Also can anybody recommend a supplier of betor springs - 98kgs c-d grade ability ? This site has springs, seals and dust covers as a deal - Betor kit. Any advice welcomed.

Hi All, While doing a pivot turn over a log on tl320 no. 2 I smacked the gearshift lever onto a branch stub bending the gearshifter in against the cases and twisting it. Even after gaining clearance from the case no more shifting and stuck in 1st gear. The impact was more or less straight onto the end of the shaft. Is it possible that it maybe worked back out to get end float clearance? Or is it likely that a shock to shift drum may have stopped it working. The kicker is still working fine and I'm assuming the gear shaft is not bent in side the kickshaft due to this. Any theories/ advice welcomed. While ive got your attention my no. 1 bike is leaking gearbox oil and…

Hi all ! Anyone got any experience about having Magnesium casings professionly welded (with MG welding Rod) ? I intend sending three clutch casings to be welded they say its no problem but can only be done from experts that have the right material and knowledge.

Hi all, just a bit more info that might help you all out with dragging clutches. As you are aware if you read my other posts, I fitted an Aprilia TX311 clutch hub to my 83 TL320. That along with the 12mm ball bearing conversion did make a huge difference. However, I recently came across a new steel internal clutch arm (the one with the kit is cast aluminium and difficult to extend) which I extended by 10mm, this again made the clutch pull a tad lighter. when riding the bike in practice or events I noticed the clutch developed a bit of drag, not enough to stall the bike but enough to make finding neutral a pain while waiting in turn at a section. I initially thought thi…

Anyone know what number oil seal is used for the SWM Kickstart shaft? Mine is leaking, and I'd like to get it locally if possible.

Just removed the rear wheel to replace the wheel bearings. I found a short 'sleeve' rattling around when the spindle was removed. So, should there be a full length sleeve between both wheel bearing inner races ? Has anyone got a photograph of the rear wheel set up ? Many thanks !

Just put new points and condensor on now the bike now it won`t start. I am getting a good spark but all i get is an occasional backfire from the bike. Anybody got any ideas why it won`t start ?

I've no idea...anyone know?

In amongst the van full of bits I collected from Italy last weekend were a selection of "works" modified front pipes. The top picture shows a standard chrome finish front pipe with the modified ones either side. I had a quick attempt at fitting them on my bike, but both would need the fins removing from the head before fitting...which I might try at a later date. The third pipe fitted straight on my bike, and has a couple of extra bends before it hits the middle box, and looks similar to the production front pipe on the Jumbo 350's. It looks neater, but I cant say it runs any different.

Hi guys (and galls) I´ve just got hold of a TLM320 Gunaco (with the long ride seat) . It´s an early one and has a clutch cover (casing) thats different to my other ones as it has a seperate small cover in the casing that can be taken off and just one plastic screw cap. Anyone else seen this sort before ? Cheers Ian

Hopefully somebody has a full length kickstart lever to fit my SWM tl320, some years ago (20+ ) I replaced mine with I think one off an Aprilia TX/TXR/Climber which hit the footrest so with a bit of heat, well a lot of heat I bent it to match the original lever. I have dug it out from the dark corner of the garage to restore to a usable trials bike ( the joys of retirement) but with the problem of being 20+ years older & having short legs I cannot get it to start ! I have purchased a new one off of Ebay apparently for an SWM but the only part that will fit is the spline Knuckle part the lever is still too short & will fowl the footrest. Pictures are …

Hi folks Rode my newly acquired 280 yesterday. I think its an 80 or 81 model. Black frame with sumpguard and Marzocchi forks. Can you answer some questions How much oil and what grade for the forks ? Pre mix 50:1 ? What oil for gearbox ? Bike has dellorto carb which I am about to clean , any ideas on std jet sizes and needle for uk ? Cheers

Could somebody help me with the thread direction for the clutch side crank nut [more like a cylinder with a 1/2 inch square female]? Any tips on replacing the crankshaft seal would be also be most welcome?

i found this a while ago and have just got round to translating it, there are still a few headings that i couldnt figure out but it shouls be useful. https://www.dropbox.com/s/gps74puq7hs3pnl/SWM%20MODEL%20SPEC%20SHEET.xls?dl=0 hope it helps. matt

.....and now a little Christmas fun! Having just rebuilt a Jumbo for a friend it was taken on a test ride. Full report and pictures are on my "Blog" www.blackcatvintagetrials. com or just hit the Blog button. There are all the other articles on the rebuild from scrap to showroom. Happy Christmas Tony

Strange, just been getting her ready to drop off to be blasted and powdered coated and was checking the frame number details and found blue under the black, odd? The blue paint is 'in' the frame numbers suggesting it has may of been blue from new, yes, she could of been blasted & repainted back years ago but I know from doing this myself with very fine beads it can be a very difficult to get the old paint 'out' of the numbers. This attracted my interest and further inspection shows some more of this blue in some of the deeper frame treads where bolts don't seat right in and take the paint 'out'. Also the front mudguard stay that is now black was blue with blue p…

Well I couldn't remember when I removing the clutch basket this morning if the nut was RHT or LHT, googling didn't help and as the basket revolved clockwise I thought well it would be LHT....wouldn't it? But before I got my windy (well main'sy) on the bugger and had an exploding first motion shaft (or would that be input shaft?) I thought I'd better get on the blower to the font of everything 'Speedy Working Motor', his Holyness and the Right Reverend Mr Matthews. Martin confirmed that the thread was indeed RHT and that are no 'trick' threads on an SWM...so hopefully the next person with the same problem will hit google and find this thread and think ahh that wa…

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