OSSA

late 2015 Explorer. Clutch worked fine. Gearbox had chewed up kickstart idle gear, so Lewisport swapped out for a good one. (Same size mainshaft bearing). Fits fine of course, but now it is like the clutch pack is too thick. (9.88mm). I have another gearbox here (not the one that came out) and I measure darn close between ‘bottom’ plate and hub/inner hub. But the ‘fingers’ do not stick out enough from the hub- so when the slave is activated it pushed in fine- until it hits the hub. Lever only moves about halfway. Ideas?

My clutch sticks when not running and can usually be broken free but once in a while it is pretty stuborn. Would there be anything wrong with elastic or something to keep the clutch lever pulled while the bike sits so the clutch doesn't have the opportunity to stick. I saw that suggested for cars and wondered if it would be OK with the clutch springs on the OSSA. Thanks for any thought on this. Jim

Marc Colomer out at Ossa.

I broke my clutch lever on my Ossa. Do I need some special type of lever for it? Anyone have a favorite lever they might recommend? Tnx

Has anyone changed there coolant in a TR280i was it much of a job to do ? mine looks white in the top of the rad so was thinking of maybe changing it

Just bought an 250cc orange gripper and need to know the correct colour code if anybody can help . Thanks Bertie

iS there anywhere I can get a Cush-drive shaft puller in the uk I know Keith Lynas has them across the pond

Found these pics with others from the Eicma show.

My 280i SSDT model has a problem with the electrical system somewhere. It cuts out in stages when it is hot.... First the top and mid end goes and then after limping around on low revs for about 2 minutes the engine cuts completely. It is impossible to start until it has cooled for maybe 5 minutes and then it starts as normal on the first or second kick. Subsequent to that it runs normally on either map until it has heated up.....the same sequence after a shorter time. I feel it is in the left hand engine case as it started after a shorter interval after I poured half a bottle of water over it. The problem happens after exactly the same interval after starting riding and…

So my TR280i is losing coolant and it certainly seems to be going out the exhaust. Beside the fog out of the exhaust, it also smells of coolant. I started to pull things apart and when i removed the exhaust pipe there was a trace of coolant in the pipe. When i removed the cylinder head, the o-ring still seems good. Obviously i will be replacing them, but is there anything else i should be checking before I put it back together? Thanks for any tips.

hi where could i get a year of manufacture for a ossa mar so i can get it road registered. many thanks

As the title states, I'm looking for a particular TR250i map. The exact name of the map is "20130727_OssaTr250i_Evo2.rom" I have two ostensibly 2014 model year bikes. The early TR250i came with the EVO2 map. The later TR250i came with dual maps. I have tried all available maps and the one I prefer is EVO2. Does anyone have that map file? I have not seen anything between EVO2 and EVO6. So I'd be willing to try EVO3, 4, or 5 if they exist. Thanks in advance!

Well I finally got around to making up a spare diagnostics cable. I have BTWICE one, but got the USB TTL interface a couple of years ago to make some more. I used another user here (darn if I can remember name right now) for the TX/RX and ground pins (already knew power from battery ones). Worked great! I tested my BTWICE first, then the one I made. I had to pick a different COM port that matched to the new cable I made, but the driver I had worked great. I see where you can download drivers for the USB interface I used also. I was running under Win7, reset the TPS and a few other tests. I did not try loading new maps with it though- but I expect it wil…

Hi, My 300 has the factory clutch, been well used and no probs with slipping etc, but i seem to be having to adjust it a lot and cannot get the right release position on lever. Its very slightly draggy, or to close to handlebar to feel correct. I know stack height on friction plates are 9.75 total, but anyone know the finger end height from centre of clutch basket? Regards, Ian

I have found many discrepancies on various sites for these two models. I thought they were practically the same and that only the colors changed. Is anyone able to elucidate me? On the Ossa website he says that there are different cases in one 350g of oil and 450g in the other. The total weight of the bikes is 2 kg different They have different gearbox bearings. I thought they were the same ? Do you know anything about it? Thank you

It's for the earlier OSSA fuel-injected models that tend to be hard to start. Since the original thread is 24 pages and very hard to follow and confusing OSSAs own easy-start mod with various DIY mods or tweaks, here I'll put down a simple DIY mod into a single thread: You need: - 9V battery - 9V battery holder or connector - switch (or even better if a Yamaha-type kill-switch) - little bit of light wiring (some 5-10 inches total or a little more if you route to handlebar killswitch) - some longer straps to fix the battery (and for the switch if you don't use kill-switch) And a mandatory very important note to any DIY mod: DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! (and ma…

My 2011 tr280i is an awesome bike.The only negatve thing about it is it's reluctance to start as easily as other brands are.It's a lot better with the 9v kit and the proper mapping and tuning,but it's still not as good as it could be imho. Has anyone ever entertained the idea of putting another base gasket in it to lower compression? (i know it would be a lot of work and another tuning session) The motor has power that a world class rider is capable of using.I don't fill those shoes.

I read the 2013 spec and nothing said about a starting battery pack? Anyone care to comment?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1969-1970-DOT-OSSA-230cc-RED-TWIN-SHOCK-TRIALS-BIKE-MOTORBIKE-VERY-RARE-/151235833626?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item23365baf1a How about this British Pre 70, interesting bike.

I have a 73 MAR, but it appears many OSSA models are similar regarding the shifter shaft and the O rings that seal the shaft. My MAR has a splined stub on both sides of the engine, and could be run as left or right side shift. The O ring in the clutch cover is easily replaced by removing the clutch cover. With the clutch cover removed, can the shifter shaft be removed to replace the right side O ring or must the cases be split to replace the O ring. When I had the clutch cover removed previously, I noticed there was quite a bit of movement where possibly the shaft could be removed, but I did not attempt it.