Suzuki/Beamish
149 topics in this forum
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hi all is the intake manifold for a beamish still available? i noticed a split in mine tonite. if they are no longer available, is there a way of fixing it thanks Ben
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Anyone know if you can get a new kickstart or if a kickstart of another bike will fit a 1973 Beamish this isnt my bike and i'm not sure the beamish models were out in 73 so it would be useful if someone could confirm as well, the owner bought it in a box and only has details from the seller. thanks
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HI CAN ANY BODY HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM, I AM RESTORING A BEAMISH 250 AND I CANNOT SEAM TO BE ABLE TO LOCATE SOME BUSHES,SPACERS AND PIVOT BOLT FOR THE REAR SUSPENSION, CAN ANYBODY OUT THERE HELP ME. IF I HAD THE OLD ONES I WOULD HAVE SOME MADE BUT I DONT. LEE.
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Did the early silver engine beamish have different brake shoes to the later black engine models?
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ive tryed sammy miller, he has stopped selling the fiber glass tanks due to a quality issue. any other suggestions? thanks Ben
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Looking for an inlet manifold, silencer, and air filter, however was thinking of getting a diy kit to make one. Any help much appreciated. Oh yeah its an rl250 black engine 1980
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when I’m riding the stand keeps coming down, think I’m catching it with my heel? Does anyone else have a problem?
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Hi to all the Beamish enthusiasts. I am guessing that a few of you will have uprated the carb on your beloved Beamish, just wondering what carbs / jetting options are working best on your 250. Looking forward to hearing from you Stormy Normy
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Hi, got a silver engine 250, it's just been rebuilt, it wouldn't start, changed the plug and it ran fine, but now it will start but cut out then start straight away. Carbs been cleaned twice. Any ideas? Cheers
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The clutch on my beamish sticks when started from cold, I had another beamish years ago and that did the same (both silver engine Beamish’s) they work fine once warmed up I’ve tried all types of oil without success, is this the norm?
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Hi all I have got myself a Mk1 Beamish in silver and red to relive my yooff ! Can anyone confirm the point of kickstart engagement, the lever looks to be in the correct position mounted on the engine, but does not engage until it is approx horizontal when kicking. It’s so long since I had mine that I don’t know if this is normal or if the internals need looking at. Thanks for any replies
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Hi, just a quick question about the base gasket thickness. I have recently had my bike rebored to first oversize. I now need a new base gasket so I can refit it. I have searched through the forum but have not found the definitive answer to the standard thickness of this. It is still a 250 and I won't be changing it back to 325 so it would be great to know what thickness to get. Thanks in advance
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Just tried fitting a set of beamish forks I have lying around on my BSA, but the fork tubes seem to be smaller than 35mm this is stopping me clamping them on the bsa. I’ve measured them and they are 34.87mm which seems to be closer to 1 3/8” did the beamish have odd sized forks?
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can any one help me i need to know the centers of the yokes for a beamish i have a front end i wish to put on my new frame i have built i will make the yokes myself on the cnc machine in work so if any one could help i would be most greatful i need centers for forks and steem thanks
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I know it's been asked before but not seen an answer. I recently put an OKO carb on my Cota with great results and was thinking about doing the same on my Beamish. Has anyone done this and what were the results ? cheers
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Where can I purchase the correct brass air valve assembly for a beamish? On the bike I
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I have been working on 250 (yellow) Beamish and just finished rebuilding after a re-bore. The bike has a new Mikuni carb on it but with right hand mixture screw on it. The carb has the numbers 26 and 8074 stamped by the choke lever and WO 6 1 below the main body The carb is supposed to be set up for a 250 but I have had to put the needle clip on the bottom groove to get any sort of running out of the engine. Still feels very flat. Can anybody advise jetting for 250 reed valve engine.
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Can anyone with a black engine Beamish please tell me the size of the pilot jet they are running in both the 250 and the 325? The manual suggests that the 325 should have a pilot jet of 20 and the 250 a pilot jet of 27.5 - that doesn't make any sense to me if the larger number denotes a larger jet - would you have the smaller jet in the larger engine? I have a 250 and have just stripped the carb, the jet number is too faint to read. I also have a 325 that was originally a 250 and that has a 20 pilot jet and it is not running correstly. I would also like to know the needle clup position as counted down from the top of the needle. A concensus of what people are act…
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I have a number of spares for sale on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233869786458
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