stpauls

Anyone know what bearings or bushes Sammy Miller used in his Honda TL 125 Hi-boy frames, around 1979? I have yet to take it apart to find out what's there. Thanks

I have now done some diy nickel plating at home. All you need for diy nickel plating is a power source, such as an old phone charger, a strip of pure nickel (e,bay) some white vinegar and some hydrochloric acid (One Shot drain cleaner). I have got good results so far with nuts, bolts and a fabricated brake pedal. Lots more to do. It's easy. Lots of videos on YouTube.

Are the frame front down-tubes still ok? The fork triple trees hit the frame down tubes on these and can collapse the tube/s, weakening the frame and perhaps eventually causing movement and stresses at other places.

Just wondering. What would happen if you put the correct bolt back in, with a touch of silicone just around the shoulder of the head of the bolt? The bolt thread would be sealing the break-through. Would that work? Perhaps a permanent fix?

Odds and ends, plus a bit of the frame loop.

Any experiences of DIY zinc and/or nickel plating at home? Plenty of videos on YouTube. Success or failure? Tips and hints appreciated. Early Sammy Miller High Boy frames. Chrome or nickel? Can you nickel plate over chrome? Can you nickel plate over old, sound nickel plating?

Stainless it is then. Thanks

I want to rebuild the wheels on a Honda TL 125 (150cc SM conversion), in a Sammy Miller High Boy frame, whose chrome (nickel?) plating is mostly still in excellent condition. Going to do it myself, along with many other jobs including patching the fuel tank and replacing the kick start ratchet mechanism, as necessary. I also want to polish all the alloy bits, including the hubs. Stainless or standard spokes? The cost seems to be at least double for stainless. It will be ridden in Classic trials a few times a year. Any thoughts?

Some years ago - perhaps 10 or 20, Sammy Miller sold his parts business to someone else. Apparently the stock included about 10 brand new High Boy chrome plated Bultaco frames. These were then sold for around £2000 each.

An old thread I know, but anyone have one? The bike in the pictures below is a 125. Currently for sale on E.bay It has the lovely chromed High-boy frame. The bike I have is similar. However, it has the Sammy Miller 150cc conversion. Mine also has a shorter frame loop, that goes over rear mudguard. Mine is 4.5 inches shorter than the one in the picture. The loop ends directly over the top of the silencer bolt. I am just starting a total restoration. I will post some pictures shortly.

Thanks

Where is the engine serial number located on a Honda TL 125 made around 1980? Thanks

I was talking to a chap at a trial at Bunny Lane, Sherfield English a couple of years ago. He had bought a new old stock one from somewhere in Australia. It could have been E,Bay Australia?

What about using an EM electric motor in, say, an old 125 Bantam twinshock frame? Eligible for pre 65? Twinshock?

Thanks everyone for your replies. Much appreciated.

How about some new stickers that don't fall off as soon as you threaten them with a pressure washer? Never mind the rest of the "improvements"

Like everyone else I used Michelins, with an X Light on the rear. Last autumn I changed to IRC on the rear, as they had apparently fixed the issue of the tyre instantly deflating as soon as it hit something hard.. It was fine for 9 months, until during the last few trials it has gone flat when hitting rocks, stones or stumps. This used to be a problem with brand new IRCs, but they fixed the issue. Anyone else finding IRCs now deflating after a number of months? Had enough of IRCs deflating and spoiling my results, so I fitted a new X Light last night. Not quite so good in slippery, muddy conditions as IRC but more reliable. Best stick with Michelin. Update - March 2020: 7 months after fitting the Michelin it still holds it's pressure, with no leaks, proving that it was the IRC tire, not the wheel rim or valve. The IRC is now on my twinshock, with a tube in it.

I had considered if it was the loose pads and floating disc that were giving me that bit of movement/sensation. I am still unsure.

If there is a small amount of movement in the forks, can you tighten/adjust the steering head bearings on a 2016 Sherco, or will they need replacing? Any video links showing how? Thanks

My Shercos have sawn through my Wulfsport boots, but not my Garnes. Both pairs of boots were purchased about 5 years ago and tend to be worn alternately. The left Wulfsport boot wore through after perhaps 2 years and I had to sew a leather patch on it myself as no cobbler could/would repair them. When you look at the Wulf boots they are actually baggy around the ankle and stick out a bit and rub against the chain. The leather patch is now wearing through.

Try taking the cheek pieces out - many just unclip/pop off. This gives a much looser fit. That is what I have done with my Wulfsport XXL helmet.

I have been considering getting a Spanish twin shock, from the 70s, to ride Twinshock Trials. Which make is likely to be the most reliable? Usable? Trouble free? Spares availability? Anything else? Any comments and advice welcome and appreciated.

The trouble with Camelbacks, cycling bottle cages etc is that they identify you as an unskilled novice rider. Expert riders always carry their cups in their left hand and hardly spill a drop in the sections.

What is the best fuel tank sealer to use on a leaking fiberglass fuel tank? Does anyone make an aluminium fuel tank that fits under the fuel tank of a Montesa Cota? Thanks

Inspecting some of the Pre-65 machines that I regularly see at trials meets, it is sometimes hard to identify which bits exactly are pre 65 and which parts are replica, modern upgrades or even bits that were not available or even invented at the time! Then you have the hidden modern bits, such as Yamaha pistons in Bantams, modern internals in older forks etc.