cleanorbust

On a similar note, I use and would recommend a Fiat Doblo - takes one bike with all seats fitted or two bikes with rear seats (easily) removed. You'd be better off with a car version than a van to avoid the lower speed limits imposed on panel vans.

I've ridden 125 and 200, would advise that either is easily up to the job, in fact more fun to ride in many situations. Don't think of them as low powered or more suitable for youngsters. They're trials bikes, and very good ones. Also, there's no rule that says a left side kick start must be used with the left foot. I had no problems with my Beta either starting with left foot or standing alongside using right.

In many ways, life is reflected in trials.

Option 1 was common practice for works riders when national trials attracted entries of 100+ and was entirely accepted at the time. As Martin Lampkin put it, "folk think it's because we can't be bothered waiting" but the stronger reason was to make sure they could ride the section knowing what state it was in after "gardening" had been carried out, as opposed to when a dozen struggling novices had shifted the rocks.

In what respects would you say other teams lack professionalism?

It's quite possible that the oil has leaked out over time through the casing joints, while the gearbox would continue to function. In fact this isn't really unusual in old bikes which haven't been maintained much. I'd just fill with the correct amount (300ml) and check how much drains out after two or three rides.

The interrupted cylinder fins suggest 310 rather than 250. The green-only tank stripe might make it look like a 250 (310 was green and orange) but the striping on the bike in the photo isn't original.

I've got an SR 280 - fine bike, does all I need. Removing/replacing tank is a bit fiddly due to fitting fuel pipe to petcock where outlet points inwards. Could swap for one where outlet points downwards so pipe is easily detached, easily and at low cost.

Yorkshire Classic don't have twinshock, pre 65 only.

Better still, if you Google "Sherco timing" you'll pull up loads of past threads on this subject. Also shercousa.com has an online ignition timing manual page which shows you exactly what to do. Or, just move the back plate 2mm like I said.

I think the 290 Sherco engine in my Scorpa was retarded by moving the back plate about 2mm. Easy enough to experiment with different positions after you've done the first alteration. Be sure to mark the plate and the crankcase at the original position so you know how far you've moved the back plate.

The "broken" bit should come when you start on proper sections. All good fun!

Sounds like much depends on whether you want a trials bike - to use on trials type sections where you go to ride - or a bike which is OK just to blat about on some rough ground. If the former, every alteration you might make to make it faster on the road will substantially detract from what you want it to do when you get to your venue while still leaving you with something that's basically a pain on the road. If the latter, you really would be better with a lightweight trail bike which can still be chucked around but has a semblance of cruising/braking ability on the highway. Trials bikes are so specialised that they can't really be turned into something they aren't, high gearing or not. Trying to do so would be a costly route to disappointment, resulting in a bike which doesn't fill either role very well at all.

Davidsilverspares.co.uk do camchain, might be worth contacting them about other parts.

Quite likely that there's bit of a ding in the wheel causing it to rub the chain guard at some points (or tyre is mounted without being square on the rim). Not unusual. Can always tweak the chain guard a bit after checking.

Brake arm on upside down.

Hebo do some Montesa helmets in their Zone range which might give you the aesthetic you're after with modern construction. Also light enough to wear all day without any bother.

As I recall the 200 was introduced under John Lampkin's guidance as the optimal tool to deal with Britain's slop and slime. Shame if it's character has been transformed to suit Euro tastes.

Kevin Breedon Racing may be worth a call.

One thing I didn't mention- I went for the option with the 2 power settings, I guess on one of them the ignition is slightly advanced for a sharper response, but I hardly notice any difference with this.

I have this system on my SWM and have found it great, much better than the original system, but the process of buying it from Rex's Speed Shop was a little less so. Glad I've got it though.

I agree about the OKO. Got one from Mid Atalantic for my SWM and it transformed the bike. They've put time into getting the OKOs dialled in for each model they sell them them for.

You don't want to be using heat on the shaft, that would just expand the metal and make the problem worse. It's the flywheel that should be heated.

Tried giving a few sharp knocks with a hammer on the end of the puller? A bit of heat around the flywheel close to the crankshaft might help, also leaving the puller on full tension overnight.

My 247c had 10/40 as standard, but 9 tooth front is better for modern sections.