cleanorbust

Remember to size up the new chain with the wheel in the furthest forward position on the snail cam adjusters.

www.kevinbreedonracing.co.uk might be able to help if you know the size of rings you want. They do a variety of off-the-shelf pattern rings of all types and various sizes.

Possibly in need of a silencer repack. Tinny sound and deterioration in response can result from original packing being clogged/burnt away.

40t I think. I run 9/40.

Could be worth trying a bump start if you have access to enough space at home.

Have you tried www.progressiveclassicproducts.co.uk ?

Will send you a personal message later today.

1974

I run a 247 and that price sounds about right.

Decent ones come up in Aldi special buys from time to time, half price of Sealskinz.

All Italians now excluded from riding this year's SSDT and pre 65 two day I believe.

Usual checks: Fresh petrol? Fuel reaching plug? (Is it wet after attempts to start?) Choke mechanism working? Ignition timing set correctly? Fresh spark plug, correctly gapped? Tried a bump start?

Running rich. Check how many turns out the mixture screw is.

My bet would be that something has been done to upset the run or seating of the throttle cable while the bike was being worked on. Check the cable is not snagged anywhere along its length and that it's seated properly at the twistgrip and carburettor. Also check the top of the carburettor has been fitted correctly (can't remember if the Beta uses a threaded, screw-on top or the type attached with two screws. If the latter the top should be attached with the cable slightly forward of centre - it's possible to fit it back to front in error) and that the twistgrip is not binding on the end of the handlebar. As mentioned above, when you let the throttle snap shut it should do so instantly, not gradually, and you should hear the "clack" of the slide bottoming in the carburettor. Check these last two points with the handlebars on both left and right lock.

Yes, sure, I should've noted that there was a reason for curved arms, ie clearance for forks or end of swinging arm. It doesn't impact on the point which started this thread, just included it as an aside.

This reminds me of a debate that went on in Motor Cycle weekly some decades ago about the relative effectiveness of a curved brake arm and a straight one. The theory was that an arm made in an arc shape between the pivot point and the cable attachment provided more leverage than one which was straight. I think the theory was debunked by the technical gurus of the day.

He would be right to worry about his job for issuing instruction contrary to the DoT MOT manual which states horns must not be two tone.

I've never used any vehicle with a two tone horn and it's never been an MOT issue for any of them. Always a bit annoying when an MOT tester is wrong and insists that they're right.

40 year age to qualify for free tax and MOT exemption.

I suspect I've been around trials about as long as you have but I've never heard the theory about odd/even sprocket wearing less quickly. I can"t figure out why that would be the case. Any ideas on the theory behind this belief?

Thanks for posting the photo. Looks to be a very rideable machine. Well done again.

I notice he rides without gloves too, for that genuine period look. Excellent.

Shirty seems to be concentrating on his offroad clothing business. He sent me an email today advertising trials shirts and jeans at keen prices, not keen enough to persuade me into such lurid designs though.

There's a secondhand MAR kickstart top on ebay at the moment and you can buy a new knuckle from France Trial Classic or possibly Inmotion.

Some ride indeed. I'm not familiar with this particular bike, presumably it's not tricked out much, as so many "pre 65ers"are?