zerorev3rev4

think they are on or off i had problems with running short before which then seemed to cause the electric fuel tap to stop working ,, maybe best fitting a tank behind number board as tank seems smaller ,rev3 can go twice as far on a tank

ive welded small allen bolts on them before which works ok

yes when dots aligned that should be neutral , the tab should be 90* they often get snapped off

said you would have fun ,,its hard to describe but ill have a go ,, with the selector out in your hand the spring goes on both legs down to the end the legs go either side of a metal tab without crossing each other probably spreading the legs apart , then when you slide it in ( this sounds like its from a porn mag) the long bolt that pertrudes the inner casing fits inbetween the spring so when the shifter is moved up or down the spring returns it to its center position ,, remeber to align the dots up on toothed arm and cog ,, also check clearence on all parts when fitting the circlip on left side also fit a washer taking up any slack ,clip needs to seat well and be tight fit

it looks like the type fitted to early 125 200,s but the angle of pic aint good but iam 99 % sure its the same as early 200 as the earlier 123 (247 )shape had side panels as part of the shell ,i havnt seen a tank fitted in its origanal way they are just either loose over frame with cover holding it down but some people have put a piece if sponge over the frame to ,make it a snug fit ,, you will need a cap and poss a tap ,and it would be best to trim the cover down above the shocks to make slimmer

can you check for good voltage once the stat is croossed and good earth ,possibly with a light to determin getting good power source to run the fan ,the car batt would find it easier to run the fan if its on its way out than the bike would

was it running before the work .have you checked with a compression gage to confirm enough , if ok next check with a strobe light to confirm sparking under compression ,if that ok is carb been cleaned out ok ( is fuel fresh ) or try putting fuel down plug hole and it should go ( is there a wrong way to fit the piston ) as ive seen them fitted in 200,s wrong way but still ran , has all gaskets and manifold sealed ok with no air leaks ,is there any cloths left in anywhere causing a blockage if all fails it could be crank seals

it does sound like a rectifier ,its a box you get to it under the tank filler upper panel

have a look at scorpa 125 4t , should be fairly light for a 4t ,just you dont want to be heaving a heavy bike about as you are ,i think theres one on fleabay

with a broken back you want something light not a heavy 4 stroke a 125 would even do for what you want ,and trials is by no way easy on the back

not sure without seeing it usually if you remove the bolts and springs the pressure plate comes off then all the discs should come out ,,this sounds differnt

strange that every time i see my mates 2012 something is about to fall off and thats every week

you will need to remove side casing and inspect gear selector and drum parts if nothing wrong there you will need to split engine

have you tried lampkins

best go over every nut and bolt every week as they fall apart

you dont say what year it is ,iam pritty sure its right hand normal thread , if youve got the plates out why are you needing to go in further .an impact gun or even a hand held impact driver you hit with a hammer will help to undoe it

you dont need the engine out to check for this ,, and if they are filling you full of crap id go somewhere else

you need to check the kickstart gears idler cog and clutch basket teeth

never hear such crap

yes its simple enough ,1st id like to know how they know the big ends gone without going into the engine , 2nd if it has gone who missed it when the piston and cylinder was off ,( are you sure its not the mains that has gone ) any way back to removal get some freezer bags and masking tape tape up any cables or wires you might forget and wright on the tape what it is put parts in bags and label bags take pics whilst removing ,drain the oil before removing ,it could be fiddly the actual dropping down of engine so get a hand and dont let it drop on the floor ,keep work erea tidy so any dropped parts can be found ,power washing so everythings clean can make life easier

if you have a mig handy weld a bolt head in it then put a socket over the bearing nut and washer on pertruding thread tighten and it will draw it out ,,obvious best find out you can get this bearing before ruining it

have you removed kickstart idler gear ,,also maybe knock gear selector shaft through ,and undue the 3 screws on the selector drum and remove the cover ,also you could remove crank seals and get some wd40 in there ,close it back up and then try again

it is just a push on fit i think they can come away if the shaft gets hot softening the plastic fan ,, is the bearings in it ok ,, you might be able to get a bit of aroldite on the end of it to secure it better

check engine bolts are tight failing that it sounds like somethings worn or out of balance ie crankshaft or flywheel ,poss piston slap ?

try david pye teeside erea