zerorev3rev4

email didnt work can you check its right

ok ill send that , hes more into enduro riding but does have an old zero hes now better at french than english hes in Mareuil or vieux mareuil and is a biulder/ landscaper

hi it should have 2 more charging coils for lights people seem to remove them to reduce drag ,my friend has one with lights and i am wanting to fit lights at some stage ,he cant find a regulator so must run direct they are 6 volt , i would say a stator from a cota 123 172 and 125 will fit and possibly from a 242 , i have a brother in france right near you ,hes inbetween angouleme and piregeau (prob spelt wrong ) the manual may give you a bit of an idea but wont be the same parts i dont think ,,i can forward a user manual

b and c is correct pull the bearing out of race and tap or press the outer race in the frame ,this could be tight if powder coated and this could need to be removed before fitting outer race , grease the bearing and race then fit,,, i presume the inner bearing is just a loose fit if not fit as one with as much grease as you can get in them

need your email address

if its the bike iam thinking of it has a purple frame ? its early 80,s 81 82 ish 5 litres to 100 ml semi synthetic ,a previous owner lengthened the clutch arm to lighten the clutch but this causes ledd travel hence its not been pulled enough to clear , i can send user manual with the basics ,oh and its running on a ty175 air box

sounds like one of my old bikes did you get it on ebay from stanley crook area

the rotax engine is very reliable and robust if its running well with no rattles chances are it will see you out in the time you want it ,, theres a peter night who rebuilds rotax cart engines and iam sure caters for all rotax engines i think hes near bath search power sport peter night

if it works as the normal kill switch does it may not work on full revs as there is too much power been generated to kill ,you may after tap into a different wire to break the circuit what could of saved it would of been a bar end bigger than the throttle grip which would create a larger hole in the mud hopefully allowing the throttle to return ,, iam also not sure here but i dont think been flat out on its side untill the fuel runs out the bowl is enough alone to cause a seize up but could be wrong on that one just ive seen plenty trials bikes rev flat out and be ok

best ask the dealer that one but i at least would pull the top end and check yourself and remove engine if it needs big end ,,whats the symptems

if you are capable of fitting a piston kit ,remove cylinder and piston for inspection , i am quessing that your bike has a rattle which most people will blame piston or little end ,it tends to be piston slap due to worn piston and cylinder , big ends are strong and last a good time unless hi drauliced or ran without oil , you may need the cylinder measuring by a professional to determine if worn ,to check the big end push rod to one side and keep square and check for up and down play ,there should be non ,it is normal for side to side movement ,if found to be worn the crank needs removing and it takes a professional to replace the rod and bearing

hi, not heard of this on the betas other than the 80 ,which seem to have a weak crankcase which cracks or the hole wears to one side allowing movement on the kickstart shaft or idle gear shaft which in turn causes the teeth to brake ,,have you had it long or have you lent it to anyone ,,accessive rough kicking could cause this or if it hidrauliced (poss had water in cylinder )

lol mine had one of them on it just to keep it tucked in

try firefox racing at keighley

awsome bike very reliable strong smooth engine just a tad heavy make sure kickstart works well ,, most of will have a non origanal item fitted unless lucky

have you replaced cylinder base gasket as i think they go on them

yes for those that dont already know jr is fit for the scott after much training ,and is looking for another win ,,good luck jr

iam sure the mounting is the same

i had to change mine as was perished just like yours

99% sure it blanks a pipe off on the top part of the carb poss on right side think its a shinny right angled pipe

problem could also be carb unless ruled out or crank seals ,, i would try a strobe light on it ,i use one that works from a car 121v battery ,you can run the bike and watch the strobe when the problem starts you should see it if its the spark ,it can also determine if you loose the spark under compression

with new points condensor and plug cap it should be fine

the bracket should slide either side of the web

would be best not to file it adding more unwanted marks , check engine for a number if that looks dodgy take bike back without calling ,if there is a number that looks ok i would take back but call in on a garage , paint shop or other motorcycle shop and see what someone with experience thinks of it if they confirm doesnt look right take back

in the uk riders generally rely on the sharp block edge for grip in wetter conditions once the edge is worn off the tyre aint much use hence the need for turning to regain that new edge the knob can be tall but no sharp edge its only good for practice ,, try rubbing your hand against an unworn edge then a worn edge you will feel the difference