zerorev3rev4

was it running before service ? is it sparking if not stator could of gone down

well thats the best i could do id rather be working with spanners than pushing buttons , if anyone can get the pic up of this very differnt swm then feel free thanks http://s1324.beta.ph...204177320344011

i would try to come up with something differnt if you can ,as the point of tension is a long way from the rear sprocket and if chain comes off or it gets knocked it tends to damage the case unless you are using the tubes

try steve goode if get stuck

try frankiemountain spain hes on ebay ,also southwest montesa arizona

try retarding the timing if possible

nor has plenty 50plus yr olds

also bear in mind there is a wrong and right way round for circlips you may need a magnyfying glass to work this out ,gettint it wrong will cause them to pop off

you should go on a amal spares website i use burlen it has good diagram of parts and differnt carbs ,from what i have found the early 200 has a mk1 amal 2 screws in top and 2 in bottm ,later 200,s have a mk2 black screw on top with a large nut holding bowl on

it should drop down past the thread no problem ,, what does the old one fit like ,, is top bearing differnt size to bottom ,, it should definately not need heating up

iam coming up with 38

my 200 clutch slips then suddenly fully bites when relesing lever is that the norm with steel plate set up

its not a moto cross bike nor a fast road bike its designed for the torque to be used more than hi revs ,its not very often you would get into a situation where you need to be flat out other than up a steep hill ,unless your trying to keep up with enduro bikes its not ment for that , you really could do with someone that has more experience with this type of bike to have a ride it could just be too rich top end or your expecting too much from the old girl

you might find it on the beta web site i seem to think it could be preset only one postion if not turn the stator in the running direction of the flywheel ,if its fixed there could be a problem with the cdi ,, did the kickstart come down when your foot was on the peg

helmet wil do the job lighter ones with air flow are better as you can get quite hot

i think you could be on the right track now i would of sugested this method earlier but thought someone else would of ,, it has a weak spark which is breaking down when hot when engine is running it runs ok due to plenty voltage been created ,but at kicking speed it cant generate enough so it cant ignite the fuel hence more you kick more it floods and wipes out the spark even more ,this could be due to a bad earth ,bad stator coil points or condensor or a wire arking out to earth (the one to the coil ) it can be rubbing on the stator or even the flywheel ,it could also be the hi tension coil the leed cap or plug , if plug new ( unused not fairly new as will not be much good after been flooded so many times ) i would check routing of wires from points and that they are insulated on the pivot and the contacts are clean , i would also remove the condensor from stator and fit an old car mini type one nearer the coil away from engine heat

one way i use to determin wether spark or carb trouble is to use a strobe light on the plug lead it will light up when the plug sparks but if it isnt sparking under compression it wont light up ,so if its lighting up when hot trying to start it you know its not the spark but if it floods up bad after a few attempts that could wipe the spark out ,generally ive found that when they spark they fire up easily

the rev3 doesnt have linkages ,its directly fitted to swing arm and frame via 1 bearing top and bottom its a rose type bearing about £30ish from the dealer poss cheaper from a bearing supplier ,but as above check bolts are tight

i used v mar top yoke on rev3 its spot on ,and on a zero ive used apico convertors which are ok but a bit bulky looking so use an mx bar pad to cover up and for extra protection to knees if they were to come into contact ,,ive also had a pair of fatbars snap at the bottom whilst pulling up out of a river bank ,they were badly corroded inside out looked like some mud had got inside them

if you mean the big end then its a specialist job

the thermo is a switch it can only work by connecting the 2 wires going to it when it reaches a certain temperature ,this can be earth /negative or live/ positive switching so the fan must have constant live ,and negative switching from the thermo seems quite straight forward

you should have connected the 2 wires to thermo together

check that no lower linkage bolts have come loose as common on older gassers

sent again let me know if worked ok

email didnt work can you check its right