zerorev3rev4

they share the same oil so light gearoil should be fine or maybe atf unless someone knows differnt ,, put same amount back in ,ive not found another drain, try southwest montesa for manual

you have just reworded what has just been written in previuos reply

stat could be continuously connected inside but not come across that before pull one wire off it n it should stop if its the switch

sounds like someones wired around the stat ,would be best to correct the problem before it causes a new problem

hi montesa cota 200 175cc ran from 1980 to 84 mh been the later model as far as i am aware the cota 200 frame number started 29m or a cota172 19m (74 to 77 ), i too have looked for a drain and have only found one on right clutch case but the frame prevents it from been undone ,, it is best to seal tank inside with a ethanol proof sealant look on ebay, as for mods ,mine has a lengthened swing arm and am thinking of fitting pegs further back and slightly lower,as for fuel when you say gallon is that 4.5 litre or 5 litres ? or a full plastic type fuel can ? as theres a big difference ,you need to work on 5litres (5000ml) at 100ml oil = 50-1 ok for the mont if semi syn or fuuly syn the rev 3 could use slightly less oil ie 90ml to 66ml = 55 to 1 or 75 to 1 i use 90ml to 5litres in my rev3 and 100ml in the mont google montesa cota 200 pics and you should find plenty

poss weld a tight fitting washer to frame

lots of practice balance board type of thing practising on a push bike ,try using 1st gear if not already

trouble is what ever you have you cant help thinking another bike could be better i know a pro rider for sherco recently practised on a gasser and found it much better and could do all sorts he couldnt on the sherco ,but then rode a 4rt factory bike and was even better still

that did come out well.

i would after say the gasser is a better quality bike without a doubt and i dont have one so not byast ,the sherco only having 5 gears says something alone ,and this is one reason why gasser riders choose to be in a differnt gear compared to sherco,s ive even heard of sherco dealers slag them off, all the sherco riders may disagree but deep down they lust for a gasser or beta lol

the end of airbox looks all out of shape id warm it up with a heatgun and reshape you might be able to use a car radiator hose to make a longer pipe ,its poss its been over on the back and bent something

would of liked to see that ,but great your sorted in a short time and cheap

does it have the correct kickstart or could a longer one be fitted

it shouldnt matter which wire goes to which and it will only kill when pushed in ,cut the connectors off and join to the origanal two wires in bike ,but speak to shop and get them to tell you how to do it then if anything goes wrong its there fault

correct it is more than likely lean midrange ie lift the needle one by lowering the clip

the tube needs to go from bearing inner to bearing inner to prevent bearings been over loaded or crushing

lower clip on needle one notch thus lifting the needle that should sort it ,did you do any other changes ,id also check fuel filter in the bottom of frame its in the banjo bolt , did the diaphram look ok

get a michelin heavy duty tube not cheap crap and i would get someone to fit it with experience of fitting motorbike tyres

petrol tap cheap on ebay from inmotion

you should be ok then you shouldnt have to worry about going over anything big or bouncing the rear around on the easy route

try the old one back on and see if problem still there or try and rotate shaft as you put it on ,sounds like case could be differnt or shaft not seating correct

the gear selector mechanism doest look much like the pic of the 330 , if you have hit the external selector on with a hammer it could of pushed the shaft through and the spring could of come out of place ,theres a circlip and washer on the left side check that they are in the groove as the clip becomes weak and slips ,you need to remove the clutch pack via the centre nut then pull the outer hub off to gain access there is a toothed arm that reaches up to a cog they have dots on which need to be aligned ,the arm rests on a stop which can also wear badly , also been sat for 4 years will render all the moving parts been dry of oil unless you have had it running when trying to select the gears its best to have the output shaft and input shaft rotating to allow for the cogs to engage ,if theres no spark replace the points and condensor , the lock on the front of frame is just a steering lock