zerorev3rev4

you could do with going and watching a trial first just to get the idea,theres a good dvd available by dan thorpe that gives good tips and shows general idea ,also try practicing things your not good at not just going up/over things that you are confident of doing ,a trial will be harder than expected(so practice hard ),also practice tight turns around the trees ride across cambers tight turns straight into hill climbs ,turning on banks and make some sections up with sticks or something also over rocks/cobbles ,you could do with practicing with someone that has trials experience as they can teach you and show you different skills

did you try and restart it after it had cooled down or when got it back home

go along to watch a local trial if you go half hour before the start you should be able to see trial organiser (where riders fill the paper work out before trial ) ask for a form to join and ask about the acu it is possible to download from some clubs websites you cant get the acu liscience untill you get a number from the club (i think )or the club will forward the paperwork on for you ,you will need a trials type helmet not skater or pushbike or potholing type you can get away with a motocross type been a biginner but not the best for trials ,gloves will be handy lol,some water proofs can be good light weight as you will get a sweat on if carrying too much weight as per said there is a fee per trial around 12 to 15 pounds ,dont need bike insurance ,some kind of amour knee and elbow again light wouldnt go a miss for a brginner ,its best to take some tools and a pump if poss

the regulator / rectifier box tend to break down ,did you also check the earth to the motor

looks like theres 46 plus a 48 available ,has the bike been serviced ,or carb been cleaned out if its the later type i hear they have all kinds of fuel problems with the tank been at the rear , a new fuel filter can help ,and i think you can fit a larger fuel needle valve to allow more fuel in ,iam sure a more experinced sherco rider will soon advise

hi comp head will help ,a s3 or simular front pipe will also help ,a larger rear sprocket might be all it needs

fitted new points and condensor today and its running lovely

hi again ,if you were to fit a strobe light with plug out of the head you should see the strobe light up when kicking (as plug is sparking ) ,refitting of a good plug in head and rekicking whilst watching strobe ,if it doesnt light up it means theres no spark at plug ie lost under compression if it still lights up theres a very good chance the plugs sparking whilst in the cylinder ,if strobe does not light up when plug is in i would suspect the stator breaking down ,, if strobe lights up ok check compression with a tester or like you say remove front pipe to inspect piston and rings if no tester available

warm bike up set off get into 3rd hold clutch in pull away with rear brake on keep doing this and it should brake free

its possible the spark is been lost under compression ,fitting a strobe light while kicking could determine this

place in keighly could rebuild it called firefox racing

look in splat shop

recently picked up a mont 200 twinshock ,and finding it has a lovely blue spark outside of cylinder but when trying to start it sometimes starts and runs for a bit then conks out sometimes doesnt fire i rigged a strobe light to it and it fails to light up when it doesnt attempt to fire and lights up every time it fires or runs ,its supposingly recently had points and condensor points look fine ,any advise on how to test individual parts would be great

try bill pie hes over stockton,middlesbrough thornaby area poss runs northallerton club

oops thought would of been same as rev4 cant think of a reason why they would have the 2 seperate ,is it dry sump ?

ive just picked up a montesa 200 think its a cota 1980,82ish and need new parts , does anyone still stock new parts for these

the engine/gearbox share the same oil

if theres warrenty on it id get them to have a look at it

there not like a road bike where they select neutral easily you tend to have to give them a bit of a jab ,but if clutch is dragging at all it will make it difficult also if you check on youtube there is a gasgas machanic that shows a part that needs to be correctly adjusted to enable correct selectment of neutral

i was recently using one on the front it was new and gripped very well but if old and edges worn off prob not so good ,trail lads favour the rear pirelli as they are hard wearing so good for the road prob too hard for trials use

hi , work the lever withe cap off if you see small bubbles come through keep doing this untill they stop there is an art to bleeding bike brakes nothing like a car brake plus if you have just fitted new pads it will be spongy untill they bed in

theres nowt to say the frame hasnt been changed if it comes to that as it is just a bolt on part aswell

the year it was biult shuold be on the rims

was the gears ok on atf ??