mattylad

I have a Jumbo with reed. I use standard jets and needle in third slot (richer) works for me but the timing is critical!

Andy, Is it possible to see the forum rules only once? I.e. they appear when openening a section and then again on an individual thread. Each time I have to scroll down before reading the text. Alternatively can I acknowledge I have read and understood and then they remain hidden. Thanks.

I know it's early days but after 2 clean rides can Dougie equal or beat Gordon Jacksons record lowest score of one mark lost? What odds would you get!

Try removing the head gasket as this often works well.

Try Steve Goode in welshpool or Beta UK in silsden

Lee, Edgar Kinsvogel picked up a few pairs at Aywaille. I think he is now the main German dealer. Cheers, Matt

If you want to pay my expences from Europe I can come!!!!!!!! I do French/English translation

Doug looked really serious yesterday. Certainly looked like the change has suited him. He was unlucky on section 2 where he was a couple of seconds over time and made a real hash of section 11 (second lap) as well where others went clean. All the riders made some "bad" 5's including Fuji who went head over heels on a small drop off in section 14. (Fortunately without injury) I thought it was a great day out crowd around 4000 with good visibility of sections. Only negative was the use of microphones so there was no shouting at riders in sections (obviously one exception!!!!!!) so this lost a bit in atmosphere. Roll on the next round.

I remove all the weight and reposition the footrest lower and about 1 inch further back to increase traction. Modern tyres make all the difference and the reason weight was added in the past to use momentum on slippy parts. No need for it today. Take it of and ride it like a modern engine. Obviously personal choice but easy to try.

Gearing not too bad, first is a tad low but OK for very tight turns on grippy surface. second good for most sections, third for climbs with long run up or a muddy slot. It is the gaps between gears that is the problem not the final ratio. In short OK for most conditions

Stefan Merriman trials and enduro. John Surtees only two and four wheel world champ. All three elder Lampkin brothers and Mick Andrews, trials and scrambling.

Word to the wise when kickstarting. Do not let the kickstart hit the footrest!!!! This will shock the shaft and eventually it breaks where it is waisted for the bolt. You have been warned.

I read that the forks are different with the TLR250 ones being much better. How do I tell them apart? The ones I have been offered have a small Showa sticker on the inside of each leg, on it is printed KJ2-300. They are 35mm in diameter Which model do they refer to. Thanks

Thanks for the info I have gone with a 9x47 combination (cos that's all I could get hold of!)

Yep Marco was number 8 or 9 in the world on a Beta. in around 1992 Doesn't ride much these days more into mountain bikes.'

Woody's reply is totally correct the reason the mod needs to be done is with the bottom exit the ignition cable is sometimes trapped between the sumpguard and crankcase which over time can cause a short circuit within the cable even if it is not externally visible. (source of advise Mick Andrews)

TY 250 every time. A Beamish 325 Suzuki would also be a good bet.

I am preparing a TLR 200 for trials use and need a new chainset. Please tell me what sprockets you are using. The BJ Racing site quotes a 10T front combined with a 50T rear sproket. Does this sound right?

John Cane does an exchange version see his website Trailand trials UK

Does anyone have a list of all the bearing sizes or code on an Ossa as I prefer to have them in stock before starting a re-build specifically. Headstock Wheels Main engine Small end Needle bearings in gearbox (two different sizes?) There are also a lot of rubber O rings on things like gearlever and kickstart shaft etc again any sizes. Finally a source of gasket sets or just the crankcase centre one. Thanks, Matt

Honestly thought it was a GasGas swing arm but it was a ggod few years ago that I so it so the old memory could be playing tricks. Sorry If I got it wrong a quick way to check would be if the bottom shock mount has been welded to the swing arm as the originals are cast it I believe.

I dont' think there should have been a problem with the disc as the rear brake, wheel and swing arm were from a gasser. It could have been assembled wrongly afterwards as Nigel is very particular about the quality of his work. The issues I was refering to were the mounting of the master cylider for the rear brake the pedal and linkage and also matching the shock to a mounting on the swing arm as I recall the RTL is offset.

I would like to paint my fuel tank a nice bright yellow as used on the later grippers. Does anyone know the RAL colour code. Thanks I will answer my own question as I found the answer on a Spanish site it is RAL 1018 Zinc Yellow

Woody, thanks for the reply. The reason I want to fit a Gripper engine is that I have one and not got anything like a complete MAR. There are too many bits missing to make it a viable rebuild I think they are basically very similar with crankcases being the same. The cylinder and crank are different but in my opinion not such a massive change, the original MAR head and outer cases will also be fitted. Externally the only difference will be the number of fins on the barrel I have modded the footrest to be 1" lower and 1" rearward. I will leave the shocks as original. I will try the MAR style exhaust but fit an alloy middle box and a different rear box, probably a WES Fantic 300 (again in stock). I'll see how it goes and if I can pick up a MAR I can rebuild and fit it later. Cheers, Matt

I want to improve an Ossa MAR to run in the pre 76 class run over here. I will fit it with a Gripper 310cc engine and would like to fit a first oversize piston. Does anyone know of a source? Have you modified them in any way? For the frame this has to be the heaviest thing known to man. Does anyone sell a lighter swinging arm? Or recommend an alternative? What about footrest position? Lower and rearward, but by how much? Is laying down the shocks necessary as done on the later models? In short any advise would be welcome. Cheers. Any other mods to improve reliability or rideability would be welcome