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I agree.
It is better to change the shape of the piston crown before you attack the cylinder.
Remove the height required in the area of the ports. Start with removing 0.5 then 1.0 mm and see the difference. If you go too far you choose the best value and apply to the cylinder with a fresh piston.
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What have you been doing to prepare a standard machine for trials.
My only mod to date is to lower and move rearwards the footrests.
What else is worth doing?
Do the wiseco pistons for yz/dt/it fit the ty what code number do I look for?
Do Boysen have reeds for the ty if so what is the code?
What gearing are you using.
What carb jetting for a standard engine.
Many thanks for youb help
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Just shows you personnel preference.
I always machine the weight off to get it to rev, with modern tyres grip is much better combined with moving the footrests an inch or so rearwards.
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Be careful if its wet being cotton they do not flow air.
I prefer foam such as ram air which self drains if wet.
In any event the further away from splashes the better.
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Eddy has set himself up as a trials dealer and attends a number of trials in Belgium.
He also sells trampolines.
I thought he still had a 360 Honda and turns out for the two days twin shock at Bilstain.
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I use the Talon tyre grips, far better than the original ones.
Also do not use tyre soap as it gives additional lubrication.
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If you are going to replace the seals, you can use heat to break the corrossion. A blow lamp heats the alloy faster than the steel > Then use a small bladed screw driver near the circlip ends to ping it off.
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Honestly I could tell the difference as I only make one change at a time before evaluating.
maybe I have a sensitive a**e but changing port timing by 0.5mm is actually quite a lot.
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I fitted an additional base gasket (0.5mm) to my mont 315 this has the advantage of moving the ports (reducing opening times) as well as the compression ratio. It gets rid of the mont knock and softens the engine.
Would it work on a gasser?
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Can anyone tell me the following.
Gearbox oil volume,
Fork legs oil volume,
Recommended jetting for sea level.
Rear shock nitrogen pressure.
Thanks a lot.
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Brian,
Yes you can, if you e-mail off site I will send others.
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Plastic garden furniture cleaner works OK
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Piccy of a tl125 fraser I owned, reputed to be ex Steve Saunders, never believed that though. High centre of gravity no power, its now living in Spain.
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Sooty plugs can be from a number of sources.
Incorrect ignition timing gives incomplete combustion.
Too big main jet gives too much fuel.
Oil leakage into cylinder from piston rings or down valve guides.
as a trials bike runs at low rpm they never get full throttle work for long which tends to clear out the residual oil.
Clearly you should eliminate the first two as problem areas before a strip down.
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Cometition Classic or something like that based in/ near Manchester who bought up MP forks also made rickman replica hubs, they may have some left. Sorry cant remember any more details.
Does Adrian Moss in Stroud do any? As he makes Rickman replicas.
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Todo trial did an article on this.
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I am sure that Scorpa owners will continue to be well served by their importer. Nigel is a true enthusiast with an extensive knowledge of machine development. I wish him well.
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The mushroom is the distributor which fits behind the cylinder and it looks like a ....mushroom.
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The standard system points on side works well enough.
For the mushroom system I braze the advance retard mechanism so it does not move. I also use a very small amount of locktight when sliding the unit in place to take up any slack in the syatem.
The boyer bransden also works well on either version and costs around
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If my info is correct the Pentax was a special model which ran alongside the standard.
My question is were they really different or just a set of stickers.
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Ishy,
Is the middle box chrome of alloy.
I am looking for any info on the later TLm.
Is a workshop manual availiable, sorces of spare parts etc.
Even basic set up date would be useful.
Was it based on another Honda endine MTX?
How did the Pentax vary from the standard.
In short any info would be most welcome.
Thanks.
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I own a genuine ex Jarvis Sherco.
I would say most (90%) of the parts are stock or pre prototypes of next years bits.
The engine is certainly more powerful but this is mainly modifying standard parts. The ignition however is special.
The suspension appears stock but works differently, read much, much better so I guess the internals are rider specific.
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Nigel Birkett has all Shirtys mono stuff try him
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There are two types of Mitas the older one is rock hard rubber with super soft sidewalls the outer edge blocks are not square.
The later ones have sqare outer blocks, they are much much better but still wiggle due to soft sidewalls. The grip is reasonable.
They are however dirt cheap so are good for practice or if you are lucky on the second bike..... in my case twinshocks.
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