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You know, all of your files are still there, hard drives don't get wiped, they are just allowed to overwrite whatever is there There is a way to get in there and find your stuff again

Just a note on the above question Diet is just Die with a T on the end If yer gonna drink one beer, drink a Beer fer Christ sake

A couple months ago I had an epiphany while watching a you tube video It was to try and get lower on the bike, more in it than on it if you know what i mean and get my knees bent and out I'm no better than I was before LOL but now I seem to have more time to notice what I'm doing wrong It's like when I 5 something I know exactly why, heck I might even improve some day!!

I think newer is always better but money must be a deciding factor or you wouldn't be asking about used bikes I went from an 07 Rev to an 010 Evo and there is a big difference in both engine and chassis balance Quite a bit easier to ride overall I'm thinking you will be doing wheel bearings on whatever you buy, the parts are just small and light, pop the seal and repack with the best grease you can As far as I know 09 thru 012 are same geometry with suspension calibration differences but I'm not the expert, maybe Outlaw Dave can chime in As for reliability, they are as good or better than anything else out there, machines have issues sometimes, they all do but both of my Beta's have only required routine maintenance, nothing has really failed

I'm more curious about the effect of oil weight and height And how heavier springs affect these things, I know the theory just fine but would like a seat of the pants response

Quite often people move right past the simplest things and start looking for exotic problems I have been diagnosing motorcycles (etc) for about 30 years and found the following to be one of the most usefull tools, basically, the simplest most obvious solution is usually the correct one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_razor #1. Replace the spark plug, once a plug has fouled one time it creates a carbon track on the porcelain, you can't see it an it cannot be removed unless it is sandblasted, it can still spark but, it's life is over #2. Leave the plug out overnight, it sounds like there is a puddle of fuel in the bottom end and when the bike fires, it pulls up liquid fuel from the cases and soaks the plug Don't be concerned about resistance being off by a bit, every meter is different, there are a lot of variables, look for HUGE differences Best of luck

I'm looking for same information Please post rider weight and if you have replaced fork springs

Video games, Porn, potato chips and cookies A few minutes a day on a trials bicycle trying to balance and hop does a lot for your core and as an added bonus it helps low speed balance on your moto bike And you might not even realize you are exercising (til the foot and hand cramps set in)

Pistons are dirty Ideal jetting results in carbon being formed in the centre of the crown and clean aluminum at the edges No carbon means low combustion temps Anyway, what you have is not an indicator of problems

Welcome to the Beta clan Ya back is off, up is on and fwd is reserve

Ya that didn't work, I use an iPad and stuff sometimes isn't the same I found the vid and ya, wow, the ride up the house wall was crazy There is no one like Bou, I was trying to think of another Motorsport where a rider is that far ahead of his competitors, I can't do it It's not like Raga and Caby etc are weak riders, the difficulty level is off the charts Anyway, I guess there is no way to describe it, just Wow......

The link won't work Can you lead me to the vid on you tube

Well I know a bit about it Your carburetor will through evaporative cooling be a few degrees cooler than the air temp At 1 degree c there can still be substantial moisture in the air So the carb is below 0 and the moisture in the air freezes on contact Well below 0 it doesn't happen as the air is much drier It's hard to stop, you cannot jet it away but you can wrap the carb and try to get engine temperature to it Snowmobiles run coolant through the carb body, petcock to turn it on and off Outboards have electric carb heaters Not an easy fix

I agree with Pindie, a 200 will be just fine I really can't remember using full throttle on either of my bikes....I know that sounds weird but you can go WFO on every kind of bike but in trials it's all body position and maintaining traction Overall power is not that important

Hmm, some viruses do weird thinks like that Maybe something like Java script needs an update?

Well in theory they should move identically but it can't happen in real life, it's kinda like electricity following the path of least resistance, brakes push the easy piston first If the pedal is not spongy I wouldn't worry much Pushing the pistons back in probably won't "break em loose" If the pistons are sticky then new seals and polish the pistons is all you can do but the bike doesn't sound old enough for that

Wow, those are huge sidehops I can sidehop up a curb now but I have to stop and catch my breath afterward

Make sections for your buddies to ride, tell yourself it's not for you And then ride them

What year is your bike? In 2011 they got rid of the remote reservoir and it is all in the master cylinder 2010 and prior it is under the bodywork above the carb If you have a sticky piston then one end of the brake pad is usually worn more than the other Maybe new pads would fix it, if you cook pads real bad sometimes they act up Resurface them with a flat surface and some 220 sandpaper and feel all over the disc for chunks Also see if its only in a certain spot in the rotation of the disc, maybe it's bent

Well it sounds like an air leak but you need to start at the top 1. Fuel delivery 2. Plugged pilot jet (possible water in carb) 3. Intake leaks, cracked intake manifold, failed gasket surface etc 4. Broken reed 5. Crank seal leak, loss of primary compression = lean condition from lack of signal strength

There will never be a consensus on oils on a web forum Every manufacturer says not to use energy conserving automotive oils, (you could make a career out of studying the properties of oil) But every time it comes up people say "I use it all the time" Personally, I trust the engineers BTW, non energy conserving oils in a trials bike trans is fine, I wouldn't use it in a 4 stroke though

Sweet, but how do you get in it........... And I wonder if it stops LOL, big wheels do weird stuff to braking

"Is it safe to ride" Well most oils will absorb an enormous amount of moisture before they fail to protect (they are designed that way) but I don't know much about ATF, it may be a very different story but if its a milkshake then it obviously is putting the moisture in solution and keeping it there which is a good thing The problem is when the oil gets warm it boils off the water and the vapour gets absolutely everywhere and it's hard to get rid of, corrosion/rust is a big factor as there are a few steel/iron parts in there so time is your enemy more so than use, I would get it done ASAP Flushing is the next thing, it will take several oil changes, dump it hot during a ride, don't wait til you get home

The other way to think about it is that enduro and MX bikes add flywheel weight to make the bike better suited to off road / cross country conditions MX is about the only dirt sport that flywheel weight does not really improve I wouldn't even consider removing it from my Evo

What kind of camera are you using?, it sure doesn't like vibration