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Well I beg to differ, I would be willing to bet that every one of the fast guys of that era (probably this one too) was doping or at least blood packing, Lance competed and won against other riders who were doing the same thing he was doing, everyone cheated and he just got caught because he beat the Europeans at their sport, every one else just has their fingers crossed that they don't get scrutinized When you look at other sports, athletes who pop just made a dumb mistake, the ones who don't got it right, and there are all kinds of things out there now that give similar results but are not banned At that level, if you don't cheat you don't win so its still pretty even

I'm with Steve, it's not a rider issue anyway, put it in a different context A pro MMA fighter and they and they put in a rule that says no more elbows....... Just adjust and move along I would hate to be a checker this year, holy crap there's gonna be some squeeling but it really is up to the rider to simply NOT leave it up to the judges If you put someone in a position where they have to make a decision, sooner or later there will be fingers pointed and mistakes made, the stopping habit will just have to be broken I am actually kinda sad though, stopping and hopping is really what sets trials apart from every other Motorsport, it's a signature and I enjoy watching it all happen

It's always good to watch that back to basics stuff, it never stops being important Trials is very humbling to people who have been riding for many years It's kinda like listening to MP3's all your life and then getting a violin

Hi, welcome The brake caliper is NOT floating but the disk is, it should not really have fore and aft (rotational) slop but it does, my Evo does as well, don't worry about it You can buy replacement bushings for your levers, would help the slop issue, use a light grease on the pivot but clean a couple times a year as dust will make sandpaper out of the grease Also, I think you can change the clutch lever out for a longer one, ask around about that It will give you a great deal more clutch feel Maybe do the clutch mod that is posted on here in the Beta thread, really works

I consider myself fortunate my dinner fork won't fit inside my ear or I would have gouged out my eardrums but as for the vid, right on man, I would like to try out some man made obstacles some day, looks like a cool place to ride I'm just shy of 2 years in trials and it never gets boring, frustrating yes and there is so much to learn Get someone to video your riding so you can see yourself and compare your movements to other riders Bring on the vids

By the way, just cleaned all the crud from between the pads on the fibre plates on my Evo The result is a clutch that has substantially less drag The clutch operation was OK but the bike would not shift, big improvement

Interesting comment and you need to pay attention to it 1) A motor could not consume double or triple the amount of fuel without fouling the plug and giving very obvious running condition symptoms 2) you could not rejet to make the engine consume half or one third the fuel 3) your riding partner has the same bike and rides it in the same conditions and consumes less fuel These things add up to a faulty component and NOT a change in adjustable parts My guess would be that are running fuel out the overflow while riding, try and duplicate the problem, put the bike on a stand and run it up in third or fourth gear to get vibration started, that way you can watch for fuel from the overflow (Adjusting float level does not compensate for a leaking needle by the way) I suggest you replace the needle and either replace the seat or clean it with a Q tip and blob of toothpaste as a cleaning / polishing agent Whatever you do don't change the settings, that would be fixing something that is not broken to compensate for something that is Best of luck and keep us informed

I assume you have adjusters on the lever, make sure the adjuster is not pushing the piston into the master This would close the return port and you would not be able to back bleed, give it some free play so the piston can come all the way out Also, try bleeding it at the banjo on the master, the master does not displace much fluid so it's not likely to push a bubble downhill to the bleeder on the slave cyl Even after you get a little pressure the clutch springs will push the fluid back through the system when you crack the bolt It sounds like you have air right in the master and that's why you have no lever, keep burping that banjo and tap the line and master with something to dislodge the bubble

Oh, I took the time to read your other posts and my comment is The temperature of exhaust exiting the exhaust port is somewhere between 1000 and 1300 degrees F The human pain point is roughly 120 degrees F It's just not possible to use seat of the pants or touch to tell if an engine is at a reasonable operating temp, for example, my pipe has marks from my pants melting onto it in several places, I would assume this happens at several hundred degrees above my pain point You also mention that you don't blow coolant, you cannot overheat without blowing coolant I hope this helps, engines run wicked hot under normal conditions Cheers

Can you explain what you mean by your engine is running hot? What you have here is the hardest question in the mechanical world, Is this a cause or is it a result No one on the Internet can give you this answer 1) if your engine was overheated one or more times you could have distortion to the cylinder and or head 2) if your head gasket was not sealing it would not be overheating, it would be putting compression into the cooling system, this would over pressurize the system and blow coolant out the overflow I have found that often physical evidence is less likely to answer a question than using the symptoms as a diagnostic tool At this point you have the engine in pieces and you do not know the cause of the problem Kinda like a doctor cutting you open and putting your colon on the bench to try and look at why you are constipated First test would have been a pressure test of the cooling system (at full operating temp) to see if there is a pressure leak, coraborating evidence is that there would be combustion debris in the coolant (oily dirty greasy goop) Also temp gun the cylinder and rad to compare to a known good runner, (same location, same day, side by side riding) IE: if you are blowing coolant, and your engine is cooler than the other bike, it is not an overheating problem At this point all you can do is surface plane the cylinder and head to flatten them and reassemble the engine with fresh gaskets Then you can start the diagnostic process

Indoor trials is cool

BTW, lots of good lessons to be learned by watching snowmobile hill climb vids Insane steep hills and flat light have these guys finding ways to show the difficulty of the terrain Check out the Thunderstruck trailers http://www.thunderstruckfilms.com/

It's not the Gopro, take any camera and look at what you want to vid and look real close at the view screen If it looks flat there it will look flat on a computer You need to shoot it from the side Don't stop posting vids

Armor all is bad stuff Spray it on a balloon and see what it does to it

I don't think you take any where near the hits on a trials bike that you take on an MX bike You don't case it on a double, you don't tumble from a 50kph endo, you don't blitz the whoops They are pretty easy on the body until you start to go big but that's a few years practice As far as weight, a modern trials bike is not much over 150 - 160 lbs so its not much of a factor either In MX if you don't have a 4 stroke you can't really compete, but in trials it's not going to make you a better rider The challenge of trials is control and balance long before it becomes how to tackle large obstacles Look around for a Rev3 or an Evo, great fun and reliable too

There was this one time in 1983 when I used my arm to stall my buddies bike......(We were wiping out together at the time...) I can't reccomend anyone do that unless you enjoy surgery, it ended poorly for me and I have a deep sensitivity for for spinning wheels and sprockets and stuff now I'm kinda liking the idea of a tether switch This one is the best I have seen, all you need to do is run away from your bike http://sourceinnovations.ca/

Actually an engine can tolerate a lot of water, as long as it is run up to full operating temp after being drowned Water skipping sleds are a good example, they do it every day And again, sleds are almost constantly ingesting snow, there are days when the thing will be pretty much tunneling under deep powder all day and it really has no effect on it Get out there and ride that thing

Agreed, carb cleaner and soak overnight Nothing else will affect green gas mung Probably the reason the flipper got broke in the first place is that it was sticky

Sounds like you have a very small air screw, I suggest you use special tools

The answer is .......Snowmobiles Sleds have got snow on the pipe and ingested powder for almost 100 years now Not an issue, and they are not designed to tolerate snow other than double wall pipes but that is as much for noise emissions as anything Carb icing has always been an issue and it happens most at or near freezing as there is still enough moisture in the air, a carb is very similar to an air conditioner, evaporation drops temp substantially I find my low speed gets more sensitive and I need to play with my air screw when it's cold

I have had grip heaters on several street bikes, I wrapped the wires around a pencil to make a coil wire out of it, it will accordion with the throttle twist Unfortunately aluminum bars really suck the heat up, some brands have a thin layer of plastic on the glue side to direct the heat to the grip rather than synching it into the bar

It would seem that those talents would cross over but they don't seem to always do that Look at Danny Mac for example, he admits that he is not good at observed trials but Wow that guy is on another level with tricks Freestyle MX is another example, the hero's of that sport are not outstanding at supercross and vice versa The street stunt guys are not successful road racers etc etc I myself am barely adequate at trials and cannot do anything that looks cool, I wish someone would whisper in my ear what the secret is to having that kind of balance, I am in awe at these guys

My guess is the pushrod is adjusted wrong or the return spring is not pushing the piston all the way out (sticky piston, rusted damaged spring) When you release the brake the piston in the master must return to a position where it exposes the return hole and completely releases pressure in the brake hose, when the fluid gets hot it needs to displace it back to the reservoir That would be why it locked up on you and it would explain why you cannot bleed it, it's not moving fluid from one place to another I had trouble getting the right rebuild parts and ended up buying a master, the bore had scratches in it anyway, after I cleaned it it had a fluid leak and drained the reservoir

That's a very talented man there I wonder if Jason can tell us if he did the ghost rider at every show, that's a nice move

Try Klim stuff (pronounced climb) http://www.klim.com/en-us/ Everything they make is good, I would have their gloves but my hands are wide across the Knucks and they don't fit me right but I have a complete set of Klim snowmobile gear from the socks and boots up and all of it is outstanding I have a couple sets of neoprene like Mr Finn mentioned but I find them kind of damp feeling Lots of people like them though