sirdabalot

Electric bike definitely. Bass notes tend to travel further and penetrate, listen as a yoof drives past in their hotrod or stand outside a concert. A 125 2 stroke correctly silenced may be less noticeable.

It's about time the bike manufacturers caught up, I've had this pink sequined onesy for months waiting for the opportunity.

I've had 200 and 250 Evo's and found the 250 with the additional flywheel weight and semi slow throttle (QA tube dremelled to a SA tubes diameter over the 1st half of movement) more forgiving than the 200. Standard the 200 span up to quick on muddy rocks, I tried fitting the 250s additional weight but it was awful, too sleepy, like trying to accelerate through dry sand.

One of the Beta 250 Evo 2 strokes I had came with the detachable flywheel weight (UK model). At one muddy trial I did 2 laps with the weight then 2 without, one section had a straight steep 8' climb from a stream with a tight right at the top into some trees. A good hanfull of throttle got the bike up each time, the difference in flywheel inertia was more noticeable when shutting off to turn into the trees, the bike nearly overshooting due to the added built up inertia, I had to be ready to pull the clutch in to reduce the effect on deceleration. After getting used to it I preffered the additional weight as slower rear wheel response suited the conditions, some riders are clever enough to do similar by dragging the back brake or feathering the clutch.

If weight was added to the clutch inner hub or pressure plate, would it allow the engine to spin up quickly with the clutch disengaged then add the calming/inertia increase when the clutch was engaged? Would it serve any purpose doing so?

I got to a similar level due to boredom, I then found balancing a bit easier with the engine running, then they reintroduced the no stop rule????

In UK or only as far as my local knowledge 125s tend to owned by youth riders due to their age capacity constraints. Nothing bad about 125s it's personal choice. There is at least one trial each weekend, with up to three during summer all within an hours drive from my house. We're well catered for over here.

If the hole is worn use glue, don't block the end or let excess glue into the case.

My Doblo car is great and the back seats lift out easy for the GG which is even greater.

You're right there's no bushing.

What Timdog said. I got elbow pads a month back. They're not as inconspicuous as the kneepads when walking about, but unnoticeable while riding, they don't restrict movement or move about. I throw both in the washer and they're holding up well.

Later ones had a mechanical on/off tap fitted, could have been to aid tank removal or as a shut off.

I haven't watched the videos you posted. You need suitable steel or aluminium drifts to knock the old races out of the frame. Often the tricky part is removing the bottom bearing race from the steering stem if seized on. 1st check underneath the bottom yoke for any pre drilled hole that go through to the underside of the bottom bearing race, use a steel punch through the holes to knock the race off the stem. If no holes fitted there may be a recess on the top of the yoke to use screwdriver leverage. A dremel cutting disc can be used to cut across and through the race, be careful not to cut into the stem. Once off clean the stem of corrosion, pre grease the bearings with waterproof grease, get a length of steel tube longer than the stem that has a larger internal diameter than the stem but will rest on the new taper bearing inner race shoulder, it mustn't rest on the bearing cage. Put a film of grease on the stem. Tap the bearing down till you're certain it's seated onto the yoke. The tapered outer races need seating into the frame after cleaning their housings, add a film of grease the frame housing to aid assembly. Tap the races in squarely with a copper mallet or ideally get to pieces of 1/4" flat steel plate with holes drilled in the centre, some 10mm studding with 2 nuts, sandwich the outer races between the plates and frame at either end then draw them into the frame simultaneously by tightening the nuts to opposite each other on the studding. The top innerr taper bearing needs pre greasing and should push onto the stem with little effort. Afterwards assemble top yoke and forks, then adjust bearing preload.

Heat usually does it for me.

Hello Rob, good to know you've not lost your spirit after a hard time like that. One thing to note on choosing a bike, Beta's have a left hand kick start.

Switch to — is for wet, O is for dry. Think of the O as the sun (the sun only remains a thought now here in the UK). Your other problem, throw the old petrol mix out and start with a new correct mix.

Anachronism, my local events often have stream sections and are up to 10" deep, I'll usually find a puddle of water in the airbox after removing the lid. Jet wash with care as water will find its way in through the rectangular inlet (some models have an adjustable flap fitted to their inlets, which might help) the airbox drain is a similar design to a Gas Gas with a plastic reed/check valve supposedly allowing water out but not in from beneath. but neither of these designs work. The pump failure at first caused the engine to run unevenly with surging power (a bit like when an engine is running to weak of a fuel/air mixture or leaving the petrol tap off) then pressure blew the pump gasket out (not the pressure relief valve which should go first) this all happened in one section, which was an uphill gully.

Your right westygas270, we eventually seem to find something we can live with, including women. There'll be plenty who like a TRS, but for me, even without any mechanical issues, a Gas Gas feels right. Sometimes it takes a wrong turn or time to pass before realising we've made a mistake. Thankfully it's easier to return to a bike you left than try the same with a woman?

Anachronism, mine was a new 2018 RR 250, the engine is fine, clutch is good, no dragging and easy gear/neutral selection, starts easy. Handles well and stays nice and steady over microwave sized rocks and slabs. Comparing to GG and personal experience/preference, the TRS doesn't turn as easy takes more effort on tight stuff, needs another gear (the jump from 4th to 5th is too much of a gap) doesn't grip as easy on wet grass or clay. Airbox let's as much water in as a GG, the airbox snaps off very easily I've seen a few of these go, mine included, my water pump impeller sheared its drive splines from its brass insert, the fan didn't work because the multi plug wiring was defective, I've seen and know of others that have snapped the rear linkage, mine had play on the swinging arm bushes from new, the engine and swinging arm paint is self peeling, the radiator guard is insecure, the radiator is awkward to top up. Any way time to go but you pay your money you make your choice.

They're not perfect. I'll be going back to a Gas Gas, which aren't perfect either. But buy the RR for the lovely suspension.

I had a pump impeller fail and the engine would overheat before the fan started, yet the fan circuit was OK.

Is the pump OK?

Photo?

I've got a TRS RR 250, it's OK but prefer GG 250.

250