worldtrialchamp

No, just use manual transmission gearbox oils for mutli disc wet clutch. Quite sure that brand you mentioned makes it.

heat gun

using flame is very aggressive but does offer near perfect internal results, however kiss goodbye to the exterior finish. Its also risky as its easy to destroy (melt) the fine steel 'wool' inside which can make the exhaust note a bit louder. I've done some experimenting using a heat gun with very good results. Its far less aggressive and you need no other tools. If you do this annually as preventative maintenance you can avoid the need for use of a flame to burn out very large deposits. Best practice is to keep a bucket full of water and water soaked rags handy. Using these you can control the external temperature to a degree. This clip may give you some ideas I take no responsibility if you attempt this and things go wrong

anticlockwise

Have same bike with same clutch operation. Its not to my liking but I don't lose points in the sections from it. I just cut a bit of the grip away and shift the master cylinder clamp position. You may find a different lever could resolve it...

The pilot circuit is easily blocked on the Keihin (and OKO). It still catches me out. Make sure you're cleaning it all in solvent as well as using compressed air reversed through all the circuits. Take the air/fuel screw out when cleaning. The PWK is a reliable carb but very temperamental if unclean. Another pitfall that catches many out is loss of the brass needle jet if you've unscrewed the emulsion tube.... The Factory spec for the float is 19mm on a Keihin. This setting is not the same for an OKO...

only comes with the rest of the seal kit

yes...easily available.

Google titanium dog bone link kit

and going by cabs result, might have been a 125...

it's a paid handicap by HRC to keep Bou winning?

Available now...not cheap...but full titanium with needle rollers and zerk fittings

doubt it. ...usually compression issues, carbon build up, electrical components, or someone has messed with the bike

should be a straightforward decision if the agent knows the bike year/model/capacity......

I've had rev3s give symptoms of leanness and send me on wild goose chases only to discover the rectifier was at fault. ...

as far as I can tell from the part numbers and what I've seen, no difference to the actual discs themselves until you hit 2008, the rear disc was 0.3mm thinner

I can source titanium rocker and bones with needle rollers. ...stay tuned

is the radiator cap maintaining pressure...you've got to eliminate all the basics. ...get a mechanic

The combustion chamber and exhaust. ..full of carbon

Let's see a pic of the dinosaur

?????

part number 25.0312.0.00 is a rear caliper common on 89-92 Beta with some exceptions so a Synt/Zero/TR35 rear caliper may fit

Google '2001 rev3 parts pdf'

How can you clean and inspect cylinder and head properly if you dont remove the head

spring from an OKO flatslide