2stroke4stroke

I would let it go to someone who would appeciate an unmolested roadgoing C15; there's enough bikes being cannibalised as it is. As you don't seem to be in a hurry you should be able to find one that someone else has converted or part converted leaving your conscience clear.

Partly so, but have you seen the price of the stickers if you need to replace 'em? Appeal of a design is very much a personal thing but I still think the Repsol scheme looks like a child had access to too many crayons. I'll ask my graphic artist pal in the pub later on.

I think your local shop is missing out on money for old rope, such jobs are routine basics to any professional and much easier on a trials bike than the typical road bike. A local will probably appear after teatime with a recommendation.

I certainly would not let colour rule over "performance" in its broad sense but it would take a lot of persuasion before I went for a Repsol scheme which, in my opinion, is a mess, the original 260 red and silver being much better. But then again, if I was to be advertising an oil company, I would want them to be paying me rather then me paying a premium for the graphics. Yours CR Mudgeon

What do you mean by "do work on it"? If you mean routine maintenance then you should be able to do it yourself if you have any mechanical competence at all. I'm sure youtube must have plenty videos covering the basics if you need guidance. But there must be plenty trials dealers in the Midlands. Locals will no doubt be on soon to give some suggestions.

Clearly it doesn't have much effect then?

The idea of having replaceable pins, rather than using a few strokes of a file on steel pegs (not a problem to me), to keep things sharp sounds like a good idea in theory. However, as I discovered with the mountainbike pedals, actually getting the old pins out can be a problem as they tend to sieze in; you'll be lucky to get an Allen key in the burred over pin and there often is not enough meat left to get a grip with molegrips. I have seen very wide steel rests but don't know who makes them.

I imagine all sorts of scrap plastic items could be cut to size and fixed with plastic ties in a similar fashion to the photo above. Or, shock horror, buy some plastic sheet and do likewise.

The recommended ratio by Fantic back in the day on a then ordinary oil was 50 to 1 (don't know about the 303 but earlier models had the measure in the filler cap). No need for full synthetic really as any oil nowadays should be superior to that of 35 years ago.

Just do what the factory (all factories) should have done and fit the grease nipples as you say.

Given a good inline filter and not firing water in to the carb with a pressure washer there should be no real need to mess about with a carb once you have it set to your liking (but worth draining it if you intend to leave the bike unused for a while).

There is a longrange tank seat available for the Beta and it is by far the best for greenlaning in that the exhaust is near silent - something which can not be said for either Montesa offering. Notwithstanding that Amos Bilbao finished the SSDT on a Four Ride, using one in a trial is not something I would wish on a beginner.

If your enduro experience means you have come in and found you are getting good results for a beginner then maybe, otherwise the money is better spent on riding more trials (and perhaps a tyre). At four years old there should not be much wrong with the original.

That depends - have you negotiated a second mortgage?☺

If you raise the gearing by fitting a bigger front sprocket then you can quickly and easily restore trials gearing for an event.

You do well to be worried as I don't think there will be a difference. I won't embarrass the guilty by naming them but if you are keen you can find on youtube the video showing replacement of two bent 4RT conrods.

So am I - ref the apparent recommendation of a fourstroke oil for a twostroke according to craigh88's quoted info. I'd be fairly sure that is not what Beta UK will be selling, or recommending, because their sponsor will have something thought to be better suited.

Which depends on who is currently sponsoring them, not on the oil itself.

Possibly that but also do not tighten the pinch bolt on the bottom of the fork leg until you have tightened the wheel spindle nut and then bounced forks up and down. It is possible to draw the bottom of the legs together otherwise, taking the forks slightly out of parallel, which can have disastrous consequences when hitting a bump. Check now - take my word for it.

The "standard" arm is the trials one. Have you found the handling deficient?

No matter what you cover it with it will still obviously be a bike to the eyes you want to hide it from - have you ever seen anything else carried behind a car on such a rack as that? The bars are rather hard to disguise. You do right to be concerned - many years ago I obtained a tarpaulin and had a sailmaker make it in to covers for the bike and front wheel to protect against salt spray on the trailer, you could do similar.

From distant memory I seem to think that the Montesa suffered from being a bit long in the wheelbase, could be wrong. It would be a case of balancing the extra suspension suppleness with turning capability. More expert opinion will no doubt follow.

That says an awful lot indeed., after all these years.

The only easy things to check are the filter below the pump and the vent on the petrol cap. Anything else is probaby a diagnostics job.

Dead easy. Drain oil and pull casing as per manual. You will probably need a new gasket as the old one will be stuck - grease the new one and it should release next time. Undo bolt holding filter in then wiggle it to come past the flywheel (if Honda increased the chamfer a fraction it would be easier). Put grease in the blind recess in the back of the filter to hold the spring in place then reassemble per manual.