2stroke4stroke

Could be a non-standard coil, that metal plug cap is definitely not original. Gearchange mechanism can be fragile - I'd raise the gear lever to avoid hitting rocks. Posssibly Marzocchi rear suspension? Bits for rebuild should be obtainable even though they stopped making motorcycle stuff a couple of years ago. It won't run at its best with the altered air filtration arrangement, this might be part of your problem.

Looks like the guy in blue might have the front view, if he clicked in time. Even allowing for the greater preponderance of cameras compared to 1961 it's still quite amazing that the fraction of a second was captured.

I recently had a shot on a very good original example of a 349 and it was flat as a flounder so I suspect yours may be as good as it is going to be. I certainly don't recall my 348 being as soft (but memory may have diminished over forty years) and some of the works boys didn't rate the 349 compared to the 348. But you seem to have what is basically a sound bike so good luck in finding an event to use it in.

I was curious how much weight my enduro bike was accumulating all those years ago so I swept up the mud after hosing, let it dry then weighed it. 15 pounds. OK, it would be more wet and a trials bike does not collect as much but a fair weight nonetheless - certainly in the context of what some folk will pay to save a fraction on, for instance, footrests.

He does appear to have a travelling attendant to park his bike for him at the section and ride it out after the five if Trotter's is indicative. Must be a bit puggl't.

A win at Kinlochleven would appear to indicate a restoration of mojo on Gary's part?

Regardless of warranty or not there has to be grounds for the dealer to sort things if a brand new motor vehicle has a clutch that does not work properly.

Just remove the exhaust pipe for a quick look in the port - this may guide you as to the necessity for a full strip.

I know guys in the IT business who have used computer cooling fan motors as (cheap) replacements in vehicle applications.

I got bar risers giving several options on height - the kit included all longer bolts needed to use any of the options quite safely. Comes up on a search. I think the bars would rotate before the bolt holes were over stressed, though I concede there is a bit less meat there than on some bikes.

You don't really get the choice. What we might call trials chain comes packaged in a standard length which is longer than needed for most bikes. It is then shortened to suit. Off the top of my head I can't say what the 4RT length is but you can work it out from what was on it by counting the teeth and adding or subtracting as necessary based on the length of the old chain (I'm assuming non standard gearing from your question). As you don't have a local trials dealer up there you will likely be going mail order - a good dealer will chop the length for you but far better to get a chain tool as well and do it yourself to suit the bike. There is good scope for chain adjustment on the 4RT due to the two threaded holes for the stops. I run mine on the one that keeps the wheelbase as short as possible, which may differ from as they come.

I must have missed a page somewhere along the line.

Conrod lift would indicate big end play. To check mains you need to try to lift the end of the crankshaft ie try to move the flywheel up and down.

Any update then Chappo?

You could hold the flywheel with a strap wrench to tighten it.

Even better - cut some plastic tubing to form rings.

Don't think I'll be sharing the trench digging, thanks.

That's more or less what I thought but up my way they always have a completely separate course of a much reduced severity so no mingling.

Despite all the above I have to say I seldom see queue jumping these days. The only mildly irritating time was at a Yorkshire event last year when the entire Oset entry would pitch up at a section and expect to just immediately go through as a group. Clearly that was the way the organisers ran things so that "minders" could work as a team, so not queue jumping as such.

Before I got a proper trials rider's car like a Berlingo I was without a trailer for a while. I used to remove back wheel and slip the forks and wheel out to fit the bike in an Astra hatchback, so anything is possible if you can stand the messing about but you don't really want to be doing that. My Doblo has a load area 1600 by 1200 wide; the bike sits diagonally and just fits. I don't know how long the Agila is but it looks narrow so there may not be enough width to get a sufficient angle to fit a bike in. Sorry I can't give specific advice but the above might be a guide for you if nobody replies.

Can't the Beta importer answer the questions?

But the van has a bulkhead which prevents the forward movement of the seats giving a little more room.

I assume GTX appeals because it is not overpriced to the same degree as motorcycle oils? May well be OK but the 4RT, I feel, runs a lot hotter than a car and with not much oil in the sump so I prefer bike oil. On the other hand, at recommended change intervals, it's not in there for long. No doubt more technically qualified contributors will be on soon. Tesco can be a source of Castrol bike oil at a drastic reduction.

My Bultaco rebuild days are ancient history now but I used a guide from one of the weekly papers that had been written by some guy name of Miller; I believe he rode a Bultaco. Drift mains in to heated casings then tap crankshaft in to place. Nobody had a domestic freezer then so the question did not arise.

How much overlap does that leave?