crazybond700

We have a lot of those bikes (30+), all running 100:1. More oil causes piston rings to stick, your exhaust clogging up etc. I must say those are not used to speed. On trial location used only, low revs. Hence the comment to use more when you are driving it on roads or trails. I use 1:40 on my CR250, which is way way way more maintances needy, and has a lot more power.

Thats way way too rich. For trial only 1:100 works. If you use high gears (so longer ''speed'' parts) 1:70/60 or so. Also depends on where you live, temp etc.

Actually its in real life more of a beta red Phone cam is quite crappy

Took my bike appart today for some much needed maintance which has been too long on the list now. I will put in new crankbearings, new clutch basket and crankgear, new idler and kickstartgear, and give the rest a good cleanup! Repair the exhaust (minor leak near rearbrake mounting point), weld the frame (underneath the radiator is a small ''bridge'' which always brakes). Probably put in the new type waterpump. Notice the piston rings which are carbonised stuck into the piston! and probably more!

I mean did the engine go around without the plug more easy. If it does find neutral there should be no problem, it should atleast start.

Did you remove the sparkplg and try again? Could be that your engine is full of gas or cool liquid. Had the same problem a couple of times with older bikes (non pro's) but rocking it in a high gear solved that. It could be a broken piston spring or something, but thats not logical since you cut the engine of while it was still working and it did not start since.

Do you have prove for that statement

I think this survey says quite nothing. Better to look at actual sales volumes, which must be researchable aswell...

No (good) experience, but make sure you know about safety procedures with magnesium fires.

Thats a 2005 pro 250cc

Exhaust is reparable by somebody with aluminium weld experience.

THe exhaust makes me guess before 2002 So I think the above should be quite fitting.

I am sorry, the source is https://www.facebook.com/jgasofficial And well the picture is, obviously, at least edited

Ok, weird! I must say I like the looks of the bike! Only the white I am not sure about.

Where did the topic go? Is this some kind of censorship?

haha, than it will suck (and sqeeze bang and blow)

In order to get a boom, you will need a mixture, not gas. So you will need a carb. Also make sure you dont float your entire crankcase with fuel.

The program I have at home only goes to 2000, which does not have that anymore. (the editions have no back frame anymore). My guess is on top of the shock mounting underneath the tank and seat.

Those thermostats die somethimes, out of expierence. The newer once inside the radiator are better (at least for me). Like mentioned above two wires and a switch will work for tempurary but I would advise a new thermo!

Google on ''valter ponzo''

Those bikes are quite ''slowely'' if you compare them to the newer ones! lol. I think a slow trottle will make a lot of differences.

TRIAL MODEL CHASSIS NUMBERS 1993~2003 Example: VTRGG 2800 0200 9955 VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro and MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 2800 = 280 model, year 2000 0200: 02 = Manufacture month. (2ND month) February. 00 = Year of manufacture 2000. 9955 = sequential chassis number (9,955th built in this year.) So wouldnt that be a 320/321? April 1998

On the older ones it was also a struggle with the dellorto. I have bought a alu spacer that solves the problem. (normally they have got a plastic spacer that does not work right). The designer probably ran into the bike with a piece of clay and created the shape of the airbox, lol. What can also help is to slighty heaten up the rubber so it will be more flexible to push it on. Once you have done it some times it will get easier

Im not totally sure but itsnt that a thin rubber or flap, which lays on top of the frame/shock assembly? Do you have a part number?

You probably better could have left the head on the cilinder, like sugested earlier. Those o rings are quite *******.