eagle8

I'm glad we only have E10 down here & not every brand of servo carries it, the big companies like Shell & Mobil don't sell E10

Looks like it has just come off the showrrom floor :)

I have arthritis in both wrists & fingers, i used to wear a TLD wrist brace # 5205 & take an anti inflam before rides,i also have a Sherco & KTM that i do High Country rides & single track with. I had tried just about every supplement recommended, i would give them about 10 weeks & then try another 1, i was just about to think this is life as i know it then i came across NZ Green Lipped Mussel capsules, i noticed an improvement after about 2 weeks, I've been taking them every morning after breakfast for about 18mths now & i NO longer wear a brace or take any pre ride tabs, i recommend them to everybody I also have a few fresh pineapple pieces & juice with my breakfast, pineapple is also an anti inflam, i worked as sparkie so used my hands a lot which probably didn't help with my hand condition, i'm 70 in a few months & have to say, i'm looking @ trail riding twice a week & playing around on my Honda tlr 250 as often & as long as i can ! I also did some damage to my left knee playing Over40's Aussie rules, it used to give me some sort of pain most days, i would wear a hinged brace when i rode my bikes, i've also noticed very little pain & i don't wear the brace anymore

I had my TLR250 relined a few years ago by a local mechanic who specialised in engine rebuilds, i'd be pretty sure if you ask your local bike shop or ask some fwelow riders they could give you someones name.

I remember i bought a new end cap for my KTM starter, it wet backwards , i then pulled it apart out found out that the positive & negative were opposite from the original end cap. I had to buy a new end cap with the + & - in the right position, somehow you must have changed the wire around ?

I don't know if it's because i have small arthritic hands, but it's easier for me to use my middle finger, i think you have more control on the grips when using the middle finger especially for the clutch? When using the middle finger the hand is closed around the grip, if you use the the first finger, the part closest to the the grip ridge i'll call it, is not as secure, i did a fair bit of martial arts when i was young, & we always worked out the best way to use our body parts etc for ourselves when training. The middle finger definitely seems to give me more control on my Trials, Enduro & MTB bikes, i've tried the first finger but it doesn't work for me, i only started using 1 finger about 10yrs ago @ the age of 59, it just seems so natural to me so i will keep doing it this way. I remember when somebody said you only need to use1 finger, use the first finger, i tried this, but if i was on a trail ride longer than 50Klm plus i would revert back to 2 fingers, with the middle finger i can do 100Klm trail rides & have no problem with using the middle finger all day long

Everything on the copy is basically the same as the standard 1, the only thing i could see that was different, was it didn't have the shroud around the main jet. it ran perfectly straight out of the box

I'm thinking a 4 stroke would feel heavier no mater the weight, because of the motor design, high up weight ?

I know this an old topic, but i was just checking my MTB bar width & thought i would check my other bike bar widths, Suzuki RM250 2 stroke 820mm, KTM exc 4 stroke enduro 800mmm, Sherco 300i enduro 800mm & Honda tlr 250 Renthal bars 840mm. I didn't think there would be such a difference between my enduro bikes & my Trials bike ?

Wow, so do you blokes in the uk only have fuel with E in it ? We are pretty lucky down here, we have 91,95 & 98 unleaded NO E, the main E is E10 but not all servo's sell it. It mainly only seems to be the cut price servo's that sell E10, Shell don't sell it & i think Mobil don't sell it also,i have seen a few servo's sell E85 also. I use 95 in my KTM & Sherco enduro bikes, but use 91 in my TLR 250's & Suzuki RM 250 2 stroke, somebody said unless it's a high comp 2 stroke it doesn't need any more than 91 ?

Vertigo has a 125 & 200cc models & i think there was a brand saying they have a 225cc or there abouts ?

I bought a good condition magneto cover a while ago & decided to replace the damaged 1 yesterday, when i looked @ the back of the new cover it has 3 screw holes where the original only has 2 fixing holes It looks like i've bought a TLR 200 magneto cover, i can buy a TLR 200 @ a decent price, so my question is, does anyone know if the 200 stator will fit inside the 250 flywheel ? My searching tells me the 200 & 250 flywheels have different part numbers, i'm hoping the inside measurement is the same & the outside measurement is different, because i presume, the 250 would be slightly heavier ?

I was told that running a low compression bike on high octane was a waste of time, because the fuel would not ignite well, because of the low compression ?

The copy i run are a very good copy of the original 22mm Keihen, you can swap jets, floats,gaskets etc, so it fits straight in, i did buy an oko, but the throttle cable & spigot for the inlet side just didn't look right to me, plus you would have to make an airbox. The copy runs very well & suppl,lies great power, plus i don't have to make new bits & pieces, i run a fast Domino throttle, another bonus is any Honda genuine or after market throttle cable fits I bought both my carbies off ebay & it says where the part was made.

I have 2 TLR 250's & have a Taiwanese copy & they work very well ! Taiwanese is a lot better quality than mainland china ! They start easily, will idle for as long as you want & have good power to throttle opening feel, i really can't fault them !

We must be lucky over here, we have, 98, 95 octane, standard 91, E10 & i think E85 ? I know the mover repair people etc say, DO NOT put any sort of E in a mower etc & even with the 91 unleaded don't let it sit for more than about a month with petrol in it ! I might put E10 in a ford, but i wouldn't put it in anything of mine, this includes chainsaws etc !

G'day mate, there is a fair bit of discussion on this subject on trials.com.au. it's mainly about putting gold valves, springs & oil etc in TY's & TLR's with 35mm forks. I have the gold valves with different springs & 5wt oil in 1 of my TLR 250 forks.

You need to take the shock off the bike, then take the spring off, push down on shock to see if it has good/ any rebound ? If there is little or no rebound it is definitely time for a rebuild, it depends what sort of & how much riding you do ? I usually rebuild my shocks after about 1k klms of trail bike riding, with a trials bike i suppose you could get a good year out of it, if it has never been touch i would definitely open it up & have an inspection of all parts & reoil & regas it !

There's going to be 1 @ the Glenmaggie Easter trial in Victoria Australia this weekend, i might see if i can have a ride ?

I'd be thinking, he means look good but don't work any better than standard ?

I've got a Ktm exc 400 & have done a rebuild on front a rear MC about 2 years ago & everything is working well, i'm just wondering how/why can a mc be trash after a few years ? I have been thinking of buying the Beta 300 4 stroke, but have to say, this is making me ask questions of the longevity/quality of some of the major components of this bike ?

Well i changed the head gasket to 1 that has a thinner copper section, so very happy NO more leaks In the mean time i ordered the all copper head gaskets from Inmotion, just wondering has anybody used these yet ? I remember when i raced MX some of my Suzuki's had copper head gaskets & i lived them. I was sort of glad that i had stopped the leak with gasket that i installed, but i was wanting to try out the all copper gasket, well i will install it in my other TLR250 after i have finished the rebuild on this 1

It does have dowels, but the spot it's leaking from has no dowel or seal, the parts book shows no dowel, It's the front ride side of motor as you sit on it,

I had my motor apart last year & put a new head gasket in & after i stopped riding i noticed a slight weeping in the front right hand corner of barrel / head, i rode it like this for awhile & just kept checking oil level even though it was loosing a minimum amount of oil. I don't like oil leaks so i took the motor down to my Mechanic who told me i needed to use three bond, he said he could do this for me, so i left the motor there with a brand new head gasket. I put the motor back in the bike last week & started it, i looked down & there was oil shooting out on to the pipe . I checked all the bolts & they were tight, I then took some photos & it looked like there was a gap between the barrel & head ? I've pulled the head off & it looks like the copper section is a lot thicker than the material section & has not compressed at all, i've pulled out another couple of gaskets & the copper piece is thinner & smaller that the 1 i had used, i'm thinking this was causing the problem, has anybody else had an issue like this ? I have another TLR250 that has never been touched & there is NO sign of oil leaks anywhere

I remember when i bought a Bultaco to give Trials ago after 20yrs of MX, & i rode it through the edge of the dam, i then went to use the brakes & they weren't working plus they were squealing. They were squealing that much & for sooo long my Wife came out & said what is that noise Then i pulled the wheel off & saw the beautiful chrome brake liner To this day, i still ask myself why would you put chrome liners in a bike that has a very good chance of seeing water ?