kurtas

This is the diagram from Schnoor on their Disc springs which illustrates the point about the non-linear spring rate of the belleville washer in the solid line. The force to compress the spring continually gets larger but the extra force required to continue compressing the spring from where it was is reducing. The coil spring would much more closely represent the linear line.

Personally I have found that clutch drag was much worse with a diaphragm clutch than the basket clutch. I think the main advantage of the diaphragm clutch for the general punter is that the nonlinear spring rate has the effect of lengthening the zone at the lever in which you can slip the clutch. The basket clutch because of the linear rate reduces this length and makes the clutch feel more on/off. The diaphragms clutches advantage for the manufacturer is its cheaper to produce, less plates, 1 Belleville washer spring instead of 5 or 6 coil springs and generally less complex machining required. Another secondary advantage is the reduction in width that it affords. I think the only real advantage the basket clutches have is that due to the extra plates and also the linear spring rate the effect of plate wear on the clutch action is much less significant than with the diaphragm design. In saying all that I have no preference for either, it takes a small amount of time to adapt to each and only a minor amount of extra maintenance with the diaphragm.

Montesa also made the 'King Scorpion' and 'Enduro' models, you don't need to limit yourself to the 'Cota'.

Does the wheel on the end of the index lever rotate? As you obviously have a bit of wear on the drum.

Have you tried popping the tyre off the bead and rotating the rim around within the tyre to rectify the valve angle, then reinflate and bead the tyre and see what happens.

Couldn't you remove the clutch basket and disconnect the the primary gear from the rest of the gearbox. Then you can check each of the crank and gearbox individually.

ATF is what I run in my SWM, Rotax engine like the Climber.

From memory they just use the spring in the master cylinder. Have you got free play at the levers, otherwise they will pump up and drag. otherwise the pistons at the caliper or the piston in the master cylinder is at fault. Fairly common for crap to get up into the master cylinder and start causing problems.

Have you removed and decoked the entire exhaust system? How much oil have you used in the air filter?

Fixed it for you. Best advice is to point it in a direction free of obstacles.

Beta has the easiest kick of all the bikes. If he likes a 250 over the 125 you need to look at a flywheel weight or carburation, the 2012 Beta 125 may have been running lean.

I use a deep socket

Don't get a Montesa if you want a quiet bike. I'd probably keep the Rev before the Tenaci Wong, you would have no real performance gain by changing. Clutches will be equivalent on a newer bike then what the Rev is, the mechanical function is the same. The diaphragm clutches of GasGas, Ossa and late model Sherco, Scorpa seem to offer a larger friction zone than the basket clutch design but it is marginal and nothing you cant adapt to. Have you filed the faces of the clutch basket where the tangs of the clutch plates contact, if these have worn grooves you would get a light switch clutch.

Nothing tells the gears they aren't lubricated with oil

Sounds like you're missing gearbox oil

How does a bike Snack? Clean carby and try again but sounds like HT coil if it runs okay without any load.

Paint Thinners works good for removing carbon.

Normally pop on by 70-80 Pound. Have you tried bouncing the tyre on the ground while at 70 pound in the location where it hasn't fully seated.

Bold new graphics and Aluminium side stand is my guess.

Too much fuel if only starts full throttle. If you can get it running disconnect the fuel hose and let it idle until it runs out of fuel, give it a week then reconnect the fuel hose and start it immediately. If your problems solved you need to look at the float needle valve.

If its sparking a nice blue outside your engine as arthritic suggests you've got a fuel/carby problem. Since its so immediate it is obviously a significant error. Could be flooded crankcase from leaving fuel tap on for a long period, ensure it is empty by kicking without fuel connected and spark plug out. Is float height correct, floats fitted correct way, float valve seating correctly, needle fitted correctly to slide, jets fitted correctly.

Does it spark with plug outside the engine? Disconnect the Kill switch - repeat. Check voltage to HT coil Then maybe CDI.

Remote reservoir for the rear shock?

Don't know but my guess is the length between the Counter shaft sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket is different between 2T and 4T.

Most likely the piston seal of the master cylinder is buggered and oil slowly bypasses as you hold pressure. I have ridden a trial ABSing the rear brake because I didn't have a rebuild kit.