section swept

There are some kits out there that are not correctly sized. They are marketed for the TY but do not fit correctly i.e. the outer tracks are too deep by 2mm or so and stand proud. Even with the correct sized outer tracks you need to ensure that the head stock tube bearing land steps are thoroughly clean and free of any burrs etc.

If it was a downhill section and the rider....and machine entered the section starts markers with a dead engine and free wheels through the section and exits as far as the rear wheel spindle then it is a clean.

Stops your ignition signal from ruining Coronation Street.?

I remember seeing one of the first ones in a trial, it kept chucking its chain off the rear sprocket. I was a schoolboy then and just liked the look of it compared to the usual stuff that wa around then??

Is it me, apart from the paint colour they all look the same now. ?

A standard piston will have the same length skirt all round. Shortening the intake side skirt will uncover the intake port sooner but you might need to use a reed valve. Shortening the exhaust skirt side serves no purpose as the crankcase pressure will escape down the exhaust port. Shortening the intake side of the piston skirt needs care, you would only remove a section the same width as the intake port in the cylinder barrel. The height is the crucial measurement and this depends on what you want your engine to do.

They don’t have to make them but WES might. Alternatively you could try repacking the silencer with a good quality kit from any of the after market retailers. When they are noisy they are invariably loosing power.

Could be good publicity for both organisations, win win situation.

Oil fill hole.

Ooo Aarr!!! Crop rotation works on me mangle worzles luvley! 75W trans oil is not wrong but you may get clutch drag as the oil is quite thick. 10w/40 is a multi grade engine oil, it will work in a bike gearbox no probs, it’s just that the gearbox may sound a little noisier, thinner oil. Some run ATF and this too will be ok but again more noise, but a better clutch operation. If the manufacturer can’t decide and it’s in print, then it’s anyone guess??

Do you still get spark at the plug when engine hot? Is there a fuel filter, is it clean and clear? Tank vent is this functioning? Carb looked at, how deep. Float height needs checking. The fuel in the bike how old is it, could just be stale fuel? Are the carb breather tubes kink free and clear of dirt? Is carb needle set to standard think it’s middle notch, could be wrong? Possibly crank seals as suggested by ‘bullylover’ but that ought to affect running after cold start, with as suggested lean mixture. Have you checked that new piston is ok, hasn’t nipped up has it? Air filter element is this clean, not clogged up. Ignition, check timing is correct for a 350 (325) I set the timing at 3.25 mm btdc with the contacts about to open. That’s a Mr Miller tip, makes the engine pull like a tractor but it’s more docile! Ignition coil could be breaking down when it gets hot ( broken primary or secondary winding). Condenser could also be duff, if the contact breakers are royal to dark blue on their faces this indicates the condenser. There, quite a bit to go at but set the contacts to man. spec. Set the carb to man. spec. Let us know how you get on.

Just as importantly you need to find out what caused the damage. You might just be able save the stator with some deft wiring and solder gun action, you might not, worth a try.

Rubber insert is a diaphragm which allows fluid to move. There is no atmospheric breather hole, if there was you would get fluid leaking out of it, due to the nature of two wheeled bikes. It’s the same for the front brake fluid reservoir. This is how it is on all hydraulic brake systems for bikes. The sight glass is there to show you have fluid in the reservoir, it’s not a level and when you put the rubber diaphragm back it will displace some fluid.

Everyone will have a preference, but not always suited to your own tastes. OE fitment would be the best starting point, but some riders just fit what’s easiest to get hold of or the best value etc. Maybe mrturtles suggestion of Galfer will get you sorted, not sure but this manufacturer may be the supplier to Beta under that name. Give everything a good clean while your in the brakes.

Weak spark outside of engine means no spark in the increased atmosphere of compression. You should get a big fat ⚡️ outside of engine. As others have done, try someone else’s CDI unit. Do a google search you may well find a cheaper alternative.

Block off the vacuum thingy and run the engine, see how it behaves.

Flame out, when you left the barbecue well alight, well you thought it was and when you came back to throw the meat on it was out! When one jet fighter flies too close to the other and catches the jet wash ( serious lack of oxygen already burned by othe jet) and the effect is ‘flame out’ too low and boom you crash, too high and it’s a hell ride to earth unless you are a very good pilot.

As cascadeimp1 suggests, X and O rings great on road bikes, but for trials they 1 add weight 2 create added powered sapping friction 3. May rub and chafe on other areas of the bike 4 increased weight increases likely chain slap etc 5 you cannot get lube in between the X and O ring seals, least ways not until the seals have worn a bit this also means the seals can trap silt, dirt and grit...not good. For the price of a good quality X or O ring chain you could probably buy two plain chains. At least with plain standard chain you can clean the chain more thoroughly, lube it with what ever is your fancy, 3 in 1 light oil is good it will penetrate right into the folders etc. Yes it will sling off but not if you oil the chain the night before. WD40 is good as it drives out moisture and with both lubes there’s less tendency to hold onto the dirt and act as a grinding paste. Both will wash off easily after each event/ dirty practice etc. Chain lube is good for the road bikes but it’s sticky and attracts the dirt and dust..not good. Some of us work on the fact that the chain and sprockets are wearing as soon as we ride so they’ll need replacing, so just wash the chain then spray with WD40 and then wipe any residue off. If you are going to go for long trail type rides or use your bike on road for longer than between sections then chain lube should be used. Silicon spray would perhaps be my number one choice, you can get small pocket sized cans and it has its uses for lubing in event other parts of the bike, helps keep water out of boot seams too! ??

Dump the Motul Transoil and use Putoline GP10 as per Mr. Lamkins suggestion. Maybe also a second look at the clutch to ensure all is well rebuild wise?

If you like you could leave well alone drain plug wise and remove the clutch adjusting access plate (plastic) and lay the bike on its right side and the oil will come out from there pretty quickly. Turning the bars will allow more lean. Are you draining gearbox?

Poor production quality control and initial worker training, over torquing inexcusable.

‘‘Tis the way you drive them that decides how long they last” Oh and service them. Vannies always insist on overloading the poor things, then with the suspension on the bump stops (if they haven’t already been destroyed) the driver then insists on driving at break neck speed everywhere and as close as possible to the vehicle in front of them accelerating and decelerating loading up the transmission. It’s no wonder most vans clutches and gearboxes wear so quickly.

Do you use a bike cover to stop inquisitive pond life thieving scum bags from following you and nicking the bike, they probably wouldn’t be bothered if it was a Trials bike, or any other bike come to that ? Nice, generous offer.

Working on US cars can be challenging too but more of a pleasure as they don’t appear so often....