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I have never seen one come up for sale. Might as well by a shell or fiberglass tank unit.
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Last wednesday I bought my sons 2018 Trs 300 RR. He gave me a great deal. Fruday I sold my 2016 Beta factory 250. What a great bike the TRS is!
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For some reason your brake line has corresponding marks. Weird.
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Yes, the fender is the same for a 2001, I had 3 in 2001 myself.
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There is a fender and air filter on e bay right now.
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Sounds like the pads have been contaminated.
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The first TRS I ever rode was a 250. It seemed quicker with plenty of power. I just bought a 300 Tuesday. Not that I needed a 300, but it already lived in my enclosed trailer. Thanks for the deal, Son. If I was buying new it would have been the 250. The 300`s seem just a tad slower and the added mass just feels bulky.
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I miss that sound in the house. From morning to night my son kept his lips and tongue moving making bike sounds. He just had a pile of the mx bike models.
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You will have to call around yourself to see who has what. The Yamaha Tri Z 250 piston was a pretty close match. Wiseco pistons offer quite a range in over bores.
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Just watching him ride, you just know that is one great running Bultaco. Not the same as riding a stock `73 model.?
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Well, we will wait and see what happens. I have never seen a stator replaced in our club. Since 1993, I have seen a handful of CDI`s and a few other electical parts fail. I hope you at least checked all your grounds and connections first. If anything the spark plug cap needs removed and trim the primary line from the coil. Good luck.
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15 minutes is also about the time it takes for a fuel venting problem to appear. Remove your gas cap when it starts running poorly, for a quick check.
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Your levers are way too low. Otherwise hard to give any tips from just looking at the front fender. Just keep riding, but you need to find other trials riders to help you along.
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So, the fan comes on and runs fast?.
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You might add what Gas Gas. Also the fan or water pump could cause this along with an air leak from a bad main seal on the mag side.
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READ my reply, simplistic method there is.
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It is supposed to be a hallow bolt. So easy enough to drill the head off and remove the clutch. Then the bolt should come out fairly easily.
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Since your up in years, you might not want to reply to people that might have passed on. The guy with the 9 year old post has not been seen in 7 years. And for the most part these suggestions are 4 the 2 stroke clutch. The 4 t is a different animal. Also all of the newer clutches have improved dramatically since Dan started this thread. I do not understand people working on new bikes, when they should be out riding them.
I too might of wrenched more than once on a bike through my 50 years of riding.
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It`s much easier to leave the cylinder on the piston while removing these parts.
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You still have to remove the clutch to see the idler gear too.
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I have been riding trials for 48 years and cannot remember an ambulance ever needed except in 2006 a rider dropped dead at a vintage event riding between sections. He had a massive heart attack and was dead before he hit the ground, That rider was a Doctor that we stated was the clubs medical team. Sure we have had broken bones, torn acl`s and several bad cuts, but nothing too bad.
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Americans always use too much of everything! Its a trials bike not a screamer.
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I would not do anything until you drain the tank and put fresh fuel. I would recommend non ethanol, as you never know what will happen to the tank. K2 is fine, but it`s easier to find Super M. A 10 - 30 or 5 - 30 non-synthetic would be better. I`ve always used ATF, but that`s me. I would just ride it and see if all the smoke is just build up. Way before I would touch the engine. I have an 1986 and it`s still all original. I would just enjoy riding it if the smoke is not the transmission oil.
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Your giving wrong info.
https://www.splatshop.co.uk/csp-p2g-precision-to-grip-complete-clutch-beta-evo.html
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These are two different issues. The washers under the spring bolts are to make pull easier. I use softer springs as I need the easiest clutch action possible. I cut off the tendon in my clutch finger a few years back. The shims are for taking up the slop, so the clutch cleanly breaks free. Beta has had this issue for decades and not all bikes need it. Polishing the plates and removing the glue is also two different actions. One for sticking plates from oil and one for better movement.
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