copemech

If you cannot find a manual, email Paul at SHOP@THEHELLTEAM.COM

Yea, I think is was Raga's bike. Leaked and cought fire! Fire Bad!

The material is a SAE 4130 CrMo equivalent.

Turning back time, oh yes! 1989 it says, and I think she was over 40 then! A happy Navy is a good Navy! And I enjoyed this as well! And 25 years later, a little more junk in the trunk, but?

Not that I have ever heard of. Nothing special there, as in self centering.

Tesco beer will also work in a pinch.

It has been done, and it is a lot of work, and you do not protect it other than to keep applying elbow grease!

Why is he screaming?

That is just wrong, Biff!

Guy, your dealer is your best friend! Yes, they may have to order it in for you, as they are not no high demand, but the price you pay is normally the same and they will make a small pittance because they get a dealer discount. Many times they can save you a bit of freight by combining an order. Support your dealer, you may be glad you did someday! I do not know where you are in the great white north, but Outlaw Trialsport has been around a long time helping folks and Dave seems a great fellow if that helps. Get off the tinternet and call a friend!

Who is your Beta dealer?

They are breathers but fuel can spill if the bike it on its side.

In English with video, please!

I use a screwdriver.

One you can get parts for!

Disconnect kill switch.

The "dry clutch" thing means it has added lubrication additives in it that some wet clutches do not like, yet obviously the Mont does!

Should have a 90 degree outlet on both sides, and a short tube like that does make a good crap deflector when washing and such on both.

I think they built the 2001 model bike thru 2003 under the "Edition" tag name as compared to the Pro. These were a tad heavier, but allways seemed to be a well refined and reliable bike to me. A good condition Montesa 315 from that vintage would not be bad either!

First, have you tried a new spark plug? Does it have spark?

That tells me that you will need a proper voltage input before the temp sensor will work properly. The unit will likely have a 5v output going to the sensor which will then be earthed by the sensor to vary the voltage between 0-5.

Hand tighten snug against the gasket! Re check after running.

What he said!!!!!! A good hard run or series of drag race style runs will get heat INTO THE MUFF AND GET THINGS FLOWING TO EXPEL ACCUMULATED OILEY RESIDUE! It may smoke a bit, that is good, just do not overdo it. CHEAP INSURANCE! Flushing- I would use normal solvents, plug the ends, let them soak/slosh to soften harder residues, repeat. Gas Laquer thinner MEK Might even throw in some ATF in the mix at first because it has good detergent properties.. Air dry completely with a hair drier. Mechanical Cleaning- A stranded wire cable separated on one end and the other put into a drill will run up the inlet perf tube to beat out harder carbon buildup. Full synthetic oil will leave less hard carbon buildup, anything with the good smelling bean oil, the most, as it is not good on low rpm motors. M2C

I have mixed feelings about all of this. I do not have a perfect solution and have not tried the brake fluid thing as it is not known generally as a cleaner, although it will remove many paints. 1- dependent upon year, they were not designed to be re-packed in one or both sections! 2- if they aer screwed, replace them for a best fix and upgrade, possibly. They are crash parts! 3. cutting the things open is not practicle unless you are a expert Tig welder. It seems to me there are two types of fouling in there, oiley residue and hard carbon buildup. Then you get into blown out packing. If it is gone it is gone! Late now, gotta go, will get back later.

Most do not weld aluminum, not designed for that, just flush it out.