copemech

Well, it is not really a special color, it is black! P\The thing about it is that it is not glossy or totally flat, but in-between. Surely there must be somethins off the shelf that is close like barbeque paint.

Seems lots of stills herefrom the amatures, not too amature !

I have been intending to look up this years results, got it! Here!

Three

Watch a bit of this slo-mo vid and it gives a better idea. What it takes is some timing and the load and unload. Not a speed thing. By the time you are up on the second rock, you should be prepared for the third, and so on. Steering is done with the feet, the front just follows in the natural lean on turns with body upright, and the bars just make corrections and the front will float over most anything if you let it. Get that into your head and keep arms loose and you will have a different approach.

I do not disagree! Who are building these on the later models, Dan? Are they Leonelli or Ducati or what?

Glad to hear you are getting along with the new bike there Jamie! I thought all proper Scots kept a spare coil/ cdi unit in their pack by now! I hope you can help this kid, Jon! He is a good lad, bit dense at times, but still ok. Did you ck the gap on your trigger?

Bike will not fit! Although I have been nearly coast to coast in one of these puddle jumpers, from Arizona to Florida, one does need to stop about every 3 hours for fuel and bladder relief! If there is anyone out there that has ever had a close call from a yellow plastic water bottle dropped from a mile high over open country, I apologize!

and, so there you go! Almost ready, and only a couple of minor details to finish it, such as the final inspection, no big deal! Notice it does have moving map GPS in the panel, so can go anywhere, at about 120mph! Will not make the crossing to Scotland though!

More

Well, as much as I do like the bikes, the other fettish has been put off for a number of years, and I have tried to balance things out, but I had to get this project done at sometime in my life, so the past two years I have had to try to get things done in my off time on this. The list is too long to get into, but suffice it to say there is little to nothing untoutched in getting this "76 vintage Cessna 150 up to speed. The front cowling is off for illustration in the pics. If money were no issue, could do more, yet even at this level they are few.

Suppose I shouldadd that the ali bar ends tend to help prevent the stuck throttle thing on a crash!

Looks to me basically what 2k8 was saying, as you need a bit of bunnyhop, so drop and load the rear then jump forward with a little rev and full pop, and land the front wheel on the 3rd rock and let the then unloaded rear follow.

Keep that up and they will find you week or two later with a broken hip or open tip fibula, bled to death and gutted, by the buzzards! Screw the bike!

Should be a quick enough job as you stated. Nothing special there, yet I have not had to change one.

I think them things are a rather novel little device! You can actually prod that big bore 4t through with a slow gentile methodical prod and it will light off! The proper ritual for those motors without can be a bit of a drill, yet does still work! Has for ages anyway! I was a bit surprized a few weeks ago to find one in a large single cyl lawntractor motor of about 19HP! Seems it gave the little electric starter some relief!

I have heard clutch chatter and such in various bikes over time, particularly when revving them out to clear the motors and such. As far as one going at it with excessive chatter at even low revs sounds rather odd to me, and hard to try to totally evaluate without a good listen. Most obvious things that come to mind would be uneven spring tension in the top plate or excessive wear grooves in the fingers of the basket where the plates contact causing an incomplete release and setting up the chatter. Worth a look, as the basket fingers can be filed smooth. I cannot recall any other reports of this, so is all theory at this point. Maybe others have thoughts to throw in?

It is normal. Limp boot may make it more prone, yet still normal. You can slow the ignition timing just a tad and this will help. Also has a smoothing effect with little loss of performance if you only rotate the stator back(counter) 2-3 mm. from the factory setting. I should add the fact this is not a Sherco exclusive issue, as other bikes do the same, yet I do not track such stuff. Suffice it to say the factories just try to find a balance on the settings for good performance. Notice I said "good", not maximized an not minimized.

Typally seems you may need to wind up the springs after they break in and settle. Setting the unloaded sag back up to about 15-20 mm seems to keep things perked up. I think that took about 2-3 turns on the spring ring on my bike when new.

I doubt you would need any changes.

Amature case flogger!

Is this at high rpm? What oil is in it?

Not real sure how the Rev 250's varied through the years, but the later model I rode was very gentile as compared to my '05 250 Sherco. Not sure if the US bikes came with the weight? Seems to me the later Sherco's are more gentile, and I am speaking '06 and up. The "10 250 that I rode was just a pussycat! I like it! Add want one!

Sherco does not utilize an added flywheel weight, so if you have one on your Rev 250, this change in power is rather drastic! The 250 Sherco seems tuned just a little peppier than a 250 Rev without flyweight.