copemech

I'll have to warn the Mayor of Sequatchie TN! This should be good!

A look at the section scores tell the story. For whatever reason he had a problem with section three. But the kicker was the five in the last section, and thats why he was hanging his head. Tough break kid! Since when is a 1/2 weekend a bad thing? W'er already developing a new warmup routine for Pat! We will dress Craig up in one of them Michelin suits and let Pat just kick the living crap out of him for about 15 min. Then we will have tha arm wrestling contest. This is where we get to try and pull Pat's arms off from around Craig's neck! After all that, we'll let him go ride. Everything will be in the groove! If there happens to be a bad section ride, we just duct tape the Michelin man to a tree for target practice with a few front wheel plants in strategic places, then move on! Everything is normal!

At least he admits to being a tad pissy! Good lad!

That in itself could be why Pat threw a chain, wonder? Any way I look at that pic Verticle is still Verticle! Good shot !

Gawd, Dave, don't get me started on this just after my recent revamp, yes I have red rims now!!!!!!!!!!!!! Friggin beauties on the '07!!!!!!!! But since you have done me in already, Ck the spokes for tension and torque ,but do not overtighten! If you seem to have one that is a bit loose , just snug it up till you get a bit of "ring" out of it. They just need to be basically even with some tension. Not too much. On the rear, there is an OFFSET! Do not attempt to put as much tension by tone on the left side spokes. The right side is fairly tought, the left a bit just over snug, if you get my drift here. Do not start trying to bring them up to equal tension as the other side, as the length is different! Right Tight, Left Snug, and once again, just try to give any settling ones a nudge or you will get things all screwed up! This starts me on the latest COPEMECH tech tip, As NEW, there is likely no corrosion in the nipples, and if you want to keep it that way, take the tires off and pack every threaded niple with either Dow Corning 111 compound or DC4 compound , either of which is a thick silecone based compound. Then dab a bit to cover the tops of the nipples before installing the rim bands. This totally helps prevent water entry and corrosion. Fortunatly, at least the Sherco nipples have a slot on top and most nipples can be done with a simple large screwdriver individually and re torquing the same by hand as to not get anything out of alignment. It just takes time. But just like all the other bolts and such that should be lubed or anti-siezed when new, an ounce of prevention? Sort of makes me glad I hav not gotton a new one to prep this year, takes me a long time to strip and re do everything just to suit! But you never know how much grief it may save you in the long run! And thats all I have to say about that!

This marketing stuff? The last one I purchased a year or so ago just says "rust tough" enamel, and is a similar can, but does not say"industrial", cannot recall now, but probably picked it up at the local auto parts store or home workshop. I have used that stuff for years to finish off instrument panels in my small aircraft as it is a non glaring surface, looks good, and touches up easily. The old cans were very basic, had none of the modern graphics, could be industrial as I originally came accross them at work in the auto trade.

Go ahead BAMA, say something nice, I promise it won't kill you!

They can be reused, but are a real pain in the butt. I chunk them if disturbed and go back with the screw type. 22mm is the proper diameter as I recall and I try to keep a couple spares.

At least Craig seemed to enjoy it!

Seems that is about right! Vary the power ans stay away from the ultra high revs and continuous high speed runs. And always inspect your airbox for water after a wash! Have fun!

Craig must be exhausted after all that hard work! Way to go Pat!

Now that is impressive, you could never wear anything like that at home without getting robbed!

Funny thing Jay, I think I ever only rode one Hodie back in the day. I was on a 125 Penton at the time doing the local MX scene. I think it was a Combat Wombat ? I had a cousin that was heavy into flattrack in the 100 class experts on a Hodie, he lived locally and I stopped by one day to visit. Never forget that in the course of our brief conversation(about 15-20 min. it seems), he yanked the motor, split it and withdrew the crank, stating he would just press in a new rod in the morning(at the shop), and reassemble tomorrow, it was that routine, no big deal in that world! Blew me away! They had them things wound up tight! Knew how long to run a piston or bottom end, as a science!

This picture is ALMOST complete, as these are just the prototypes for low CG stability! To complete this project, you need to let the ol'lady pile just a few more old clothes, shoes and **** in the garage so you can move the gas cans just a bit closer, invite Zipper over so there are more beer cans in the floor(a few cigar butts) and make a 2x3 area for the new Tig machine you got just for that project. At least you are learning!

Hey, we got tent space, this is really good! How is the Irish beer? Sure to have something other than the Guiness?

After numerous ACL/ MCL tears and associated moderate instability in both knees that I have managed to tolerate for many years, all I can tell you is that I believe braces, even the very inexpensive ones, are cheap insurance and prevention for recurrent injuries. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and for those that have had the repairs done, I doubt they will ever be quite the same in many cases. Plus side is they keep your legs and joints warm in the winter!

Oh what nice rocks! Let 'er rip Pat!

I have missed much of this untill now, quite a project, not sure it is a rational project but non the less! Based simply on appearance, it seems as though with proper triangulated brackets off the headstays, you could just run the front downtubes to the head brackets to fully integrate the motor as a structual member, as long as the entire cylender did not depart the motor the first time you hit a bump! Something needs to be in tension on the front, or it will buckle, reguardless of the main frame gussets! Have fun!

Found out accidentally when I bought a buddies bike, who never cleaned or lubed it, that running it dry actually works well and saves sprockets better. Another interisting observation that goes along with the WD-40 theory! And all I can say is that it does seem to be well proven by many over the years now, to wear just as well as anything else you can do, no matter how labor intensive! And when it is done, chunk it!

Seen that, too complex, and last time I checked , s%%t still runs downhill, so unless you are planning upon dragging 4ft of hose around from the bottom of the maggie cover you will not remove it in that manner, water vapors, yes, s%%t, no! And I have seen them plenty full of S%%T!

das fuherer does not need any new ideas, just give him beer to settle his nerves a bit or we will all be attacking Microsoft next! Good thing he has not gotton Vista, yet! But now that SP1 is out?

Well, I guess that is a good excuse then. Ask Andy if he can bring me one in BLUE????????

I would guess that means Ish is going to CO? I just cheched the calender, that is the Saturday of daughters HS graduation. Fuuced again!

Dan, if they don't teach French at that college you work at, who does? You better order that Rosettastone CD quick, just in case, cause the closest I can come up with to an Italian is a Mexican that wants $7.50 per hr. for the week, plus fuel and lodging!

Having recently don the Paiolis on the Sherco(basically the same i think), the procedure seems to be(on the left) remove cap and spring, drain fork and work as much oil out as you can. When you re-fill, work them a bit to get the air out, then verify the 120mm measure with fork compressed fully, extend fork and install spring, then cap it off. Seemed to work fine on the test ride as well. Unfortunatly, I have not seen much other info on this, other than when you do the other side, you will need to remove the cartradge to get all the old oil out by pumping, then replenish and measure(compressed) and cap off. Hope that helps(and makes sense)!