kingscorpion

It is really difficult to find a bike like yours. I agree with you: do not make a cosmetic upgrade, it would be a crime.

Yes. You have to take the gas tank out, and it's a tricky move because its lower side is divided in two sections that are connected with a rubber hose. Yes, ethanol will slowly destroy your fiberglass tank.

It’s a second series 242.

It seems to be very complete and in original condition. Not difficult to restore, except the wheels, whose rims are in bad condition. The problem with those bikes is the wheels. 17 inches the rear one and 20 for the front. Unusual measures nowadays to find a suitable tire.

Have you painted the frame? If the answer is "yes", please note that you need to scratch at least one engine support and the place where the high tension coil is bolted. Another issue to check is the order of the insulation rings at the points and condenser screw.

If it had a fixed position, it wouldn't need to have an elliptical screw. You have to find the proper position for you gearbox. In fact, there's no need to dissasemble the selector when you open the cases, but if you did it so, you'll have to make some tests with several positions until you find every gear is properly engaged when shifting upwards and downwards.

It's an excellent book, plenty of useful information. Go for it.

The only seal that needs to split the cases is the kickstarter one.

Maybe these could be of help.

Here you can find a simple tool to remove the pins: Después de mucho tiempo callado, una cosita rápida: herramienta para desmontar embragues Montesa After disasembling the plates, remove the wear scratches in the basket using an abrasive file.

For some modern models (Cota 242, if I don't remember badly) there is a list for each page of the parts manual. I haven't seen one for the 349.

2.1 mm BTC.

Both. 51M is the common model for 348 (305.8) and 349 (349.6).

Following a request that my friend Enrique made to me in the La Maneta forum, I decided to write a small guide to help those who do not know how the amazing “Montesa parts manuals” work, which make life easier for everyone who uses them. Above all, if we understand them as they were conceived in the factory. Even today I am amazed by the mentality of Pedro Permanyer, at a time when we were far from the rising of computer science in our lives. The system can’t be more logical. The first thing we should know is that, from the Impala, all Montesa parts have a unique reference formed by three groups of numbers (and sometimes a fourth group). These groups were separated from each other initially with a point, but eventually ended up joining the first two groups into one (I believe that because the point that separated the model and group was not necessary because there were no confusions). These composed references are those that appear in the sections of Montesa, and it is worth understanding how they are generated. Because understanding it will help us enormously to locate parts, know what compatibilities there are between models, etc. The first number of the three that make up each reference is given by the factory code of the model, which was also used to number each frame and engine. The list-taken in part from the old Rocky Mountain Montesa of my missed friend John Haberbosch-is as follows: Model Name Displacement 3M Impala Sport 175cc 4M Impala 175cc 4M post 20.000 Impala 2 175cc 5M Microscooter 60cc 6M Comando 175cc 7M Montesa 50 A 1 50cc 8M Kenya 175cc 9M Comando Impala 175cc 10M Cota 25, 25A 50cc 11M Trial 250 247cc 12M Texas 175 175cc 13M Impala Cross 175 (175 Scrambler) 175cc 13M Impala Cross 250 (250 El Diablo) 250cc 14M Enduro 175 175cc 15M Sport 250 247cc 16M Cota 74 74cc 17M Ciclo Montesa / Indiana 50cc 18M Cappra 125 MX 125cc 19M Cota 172 157.3cc 20M Cota 49 50cc 21M Cotas 247 y 248 247cc 23M La Cross 250cc 24M Texas 250 (Scorpion USA) 250cc 25M Impala Sport (USA) 250cc 26M Enduro 75 L 74cc 27M Mini Montesa (Moped) 50cc 28M Cota 123, 123T 125cc 29M Cota 200 173.7cc 30M Scorpion 50, 50R 50cc 32M Cota 80 80cc 33M Cappra 250 250cc 34M King Scorpion 250 250cc 36M Cappra 360 GP Europe/USA 351.2cc 37M Brío 50cc 38M Cappra 125 VA a VF 125cc 39M Cota 242, 304, 307 y 309 237.5cc 40M Rapita 50, 50R 50cc 41M Impala 2 125 125cc 42M Crono 74 74cc 43M Cappra 250 Five 250cc 44M King Scorpion Automix 250 250cc 45M Rapita Automix 250 250cc 46M Cappra 360GP, 360DS 351.2cc 47M Mini Mini 50cc 48M Enduro 125 L 125cc 50M Cota 25 C 50cc 51M Cotas 348, 349 y 350 305.8cc 52M Crono 125 125cc 53M Cappra 250 GP 250cc 54M Enduro 250 todas las versiones. 250cc 55M Crono 350 350cc 56M Cappra 360 GP 350cc 57M Fura 50cc 58M Enduro 125H 125cc 61M Cota 330 327.8cc 62M Enduro 75 H6 y H7 74cc 63M Cappra 250 MX 250cc 66M Cappra 360 VA a 414 VG 350.4cc 67M Enduro 360 H6 y H7 350cc 68M Enduro 125 H6 y H7 125cc 73M Cappra 250 VR a VG 250cc In addition to those on this list, there is a "fictitious model" (the 2M, or 02 in the parts lists) that corresponds to the original Impala monoblock engine, from which everything changed at the Montesa factory. This number is very frequent and is maintained until a very late time because even the latest engines inherited many pieces of the original Impala. The second digit of the part number is given by the "Group" to which the part in question belongs. The list of Groups is the following: Grupo Número Observaciones Frame 20 Usually divided into two sheets (I and II) that correspond to frame and fenders and to tank and seat. Steering and front suspension 30 Handlebar, seat, grips, throttle and steering axle. Front suspension 35 Spares that are part of the fork, except for the triple clamps. Rear suspension 40 Swinging arm and shock absorbers. Sometimes it includes cutting of the shock absorbers with their manufacturer's own codes. Wheels and brakes 50 Tires, rims, hubs, rear sprockets and bearings. Brake parts 55 Brake shoes, brake levers, rear brake levers and control cables. Engine 60 It is usually divided into I and II which correspond respectively to thermodynamic group plus escape and to crankcases. Flywheel 61 Flywheel, coils and spark plugs. It usually includes references of the manufacturer of the elements. Carburetion 62 Carburetor and air filter, with references of the manufacturers of the elements. Clutch and primary drive 63 Includes chain, control cable and sprocket. Transmission 64 Gear sprockets and selection forks. Kick Starter 65 Lever and internal mechanism. Selector 66 Selector and shift lever. Electrical system 70 Electrical wiring, headlamp and rear lamps. It usually includes cutting of the lighting elements with references from its manufacturer. Standard accessories 80 Odometer, tools, front plates, etc. Workshop tools 87 Combining these two tables we already have an idea of how the references work. We will know, for example, that an Enduro 360 frame part will always be a 67.20.XXX (6720.XXX after the loss of the first intermediate point), or that a steering part from a Cota 348 will be a 5130.XXX . We will even learn things about the evolution of the models: for example, when we see the sheet of Cota 348’s tank and see in it the piece 34.20.06201, corresponding to the tank’s badges, we will know that those badges comes from a King Scorpion since its numbers begin with a 3420. Useful, right? But there is much more. Because Mr. Permanyer sent each dealer a series of ring binders containing the original sections of each of his bikes, arranged in the sequence given above for the Groups. This allowed that when the factory introduced an improvement or a change in the model, an additional sheet was added to know what changes were introduced. To understand how it works, we’ll discuss the first two pages of a Cota 247 frame. The first one: The first thing we must look at is the lower area where we are informed that it is a sheet of a Cota 247, corresponding to the Frame I Group (there is a Frame II that is a tank, seat and accessories), and that it applies to the motorcycle from 21M0001 (that is, to the first unit of Cota 247). The next thing is that we will see a mixture of pieces 21.20.XXX created especially for the model, along with others from different models, such as 33.20.020 (the sidestand spring) that comes from a Cappra 250 (model 33M, as we see in the models table). Finally, and to them I will refer last, we will see that there are also parts with numbers that start with 0.9X.YYY, which are special cases. When we turn to the next page of the manual, we will see that we are facing the first modification, which was applied from motorcycle number 500 (21M0500). And to make our lives easier, Montesa emphasizes the part numbers that have changed in this "Frame Group I", as it happens with the same sidestand spring, which is now a Cappra 250 Five (43M). It’s impossible to make it easier. Finally, it is necessary to explain the special groups of parts, which we could call "generic". They are the following: 0090.XXYYY Metric screws. Where XX marks the diameter in millimeters and YYY the length. Thus, a 0090.05022 is a hexagonal screw M5 of 22 mm in length. A “5x22” as they are commonly referred in the supply stores. 0091.XXXXX Special screws. Where the casuistry is wide and I do not have it very clear. I believe that the denomination comes from the pieces "D91XX" that in the original Impala indicated Withworth measurements. In the last series they were used for countersunk screws (present in Dimensions from 330 and 242), Allen screws, etc. These last denominations are very long, as for example the 0091.0010502032 that indicates an Allen screw 5x20. 0092.XXYYY Nuts. Where the XX is the diameter in millimeters, and can include several suffixes to indicate if it is self-blocking, standard, etc. For example, a 0092.08011 is an M8 self-locking nut and a 0092.08030 is an M8 elastic nut. D92XX Withworth nuts As far as I know, they were only used in Impala and derived for very specific things. They are the D9206 (1/4 inch) that fixed the saddle to the frame, D9210 (1/8 inch) and D9211 (5/32 inch). 0093.XXXXXX Washers and o-rings. Where the casuistry is large: 0093.104 to 0093.112 indicate flat washer between M4 and M12 0093.30XXXXX are o-rings, like the 0093.3010015 that are 10x1,5 o-rings. 0093.4XXX indicate cable grommets. 0093.504 to 0093.518 indicate elastic washer between M4 and M18. 0093.7XX and 0093.8XX are spacial washers. 0094.XXXX Balls, bearings and bushes. X is usually the numbering of the standard bearing model used. Sometimes it uses the suffix C3 to indicate tolerance, as in the crankshaft. 0095.XXYY Rivets. X and Y are usually measured in millimeters as in 0095.0413 which are 4x13 rivets. 0097.XXYY Plugs and fasteners. X and Y is usually diameter and length. 0098.XYY Elastic rings (Seeger type). Being the X values 1, 2 and 3 for axis, hole or "type E", and the YY diameter in millimeters. A 098.114 is a seeger for a 14 mm sahft, a 0098.240 is the seeger for a hole of 40 mm, and a 0098.310 is a “type e” seeger for a 10 mm shaft. 0099.XXYY Seals. Normally X and Y mark internal and external diameter. As a general rule, the thickness is usually 7 mm, with few exceptions that I remember now, and that go to 10. Sorry for such a heavy text. But I hope it will be of help for those who love Montesas and a good starting point to make your own discoveries.

I'm afraid the Google translation is not very accurate. If you find the article useful, I can try to improve it a bit.

Take a look here: http://montesakingscorpion.blogspot.com.es/2014/10/trabajando-con-los-despieces-de-montesa.html It's an explanation on how the Montesa manual works. Hope Google Translate will be of help.

I'm afraid it's not a 247, but a 123/172 unit. It's not worth the price. The frame should be gray or black (it depends on the manufacturing year), the fenders are aluminum ... expensive and hard to find parts. BUt the worst part is that you won't find it's 20 and 17 inches tyres.

1. The correct size is 520. 2. Even at 50:1 every synthetic oil will be enough. 3. GL-4 is better, but GL-5 probably is an acceptable choice. It will hurt the "yellow metals", but at a high temperature. 4. Mineral 10W30 or 10W40 is a better choice. 5. SAE 20 is the original oil. 6. Their maintenance is very simple. Just take a look at the points and condenser, and keep the carb clean. 7. Jared Bates at Southwest Montesa is a nice guy. We miss a lot John Haberbosch; he passed away a few years ago and had a deep knowledge of these bikes. You've made a good choice. It's the right bike to ride for 50 years. Just two advices: 1.- Use Dunlop tyres. Specially the rear wheel has a narrow rim, and the rigid Dunlop flanks will make a difference with the modern Michelin. 2.- Try to find a 9 teeth front sprocket. You can't figure the difference with the 10th until you test it. The modern renthals are easy to find.

In fact, there's more points to adjust, like the bronze pusher height, but assuming you still wear the original, everything will be OK.

Yes! A few months ago ... Sorry, but I haven't read trialscentral for a while. If you're still interested on it, just let us know.

The drain plug under the gearbox uses to be a 19 mm screw. The original oils were a 10w30 for the clutch (Motul Transoil can be a choice) and a SAE 90 for the gearbox, but you'd better refill with an API GL-4, because API GL-5 will corrode the yellow metal parts in the gearbox.

A 4x1 mm flat screwdriver will fit perfectly.

:-) Glad to hear that from you. Sure you'll find a way to improve the clutch avoiding the slipping kick.

Most of the starting problems I've seen on these bikes are related to the clutch, as feetupfun has told you. I'd never split the central cases unless you are a hundred percent sure that the clutch is not slipping. The inner mechanism is so simple that, if it fails, you'll notice that the gearbox is stuck, or there is a strange noise while kicking it.

For triials front sprocket should be 9t and rear 48t. For a general use, front sprocket can go to 11 or even 12 teeth.