mcman56

Thanks for the pictures and details. I looked at mine again and stand correctly. The mount bracket looks the same as yours and is highly magnetic. It is an odd color and I just assumed aluminium. Since it is highly magnetic, could I assume it is just basic steel. IIRC, 300 series stainless is only mildly magnetic. 400 series is also somethat magnetic but I don't remember how much. I have no idea what they use for casting. I can mig weld some. Do you think standard steel wire would work?

Is this a 260 swingarm? I recently bought a 2018 300 4rt that has a cast aluminium kick stand that does not work very well. It is sort self retracting. The pin that locates the top part of the spring looks not positioned well to properly overcenter the pivot and stay in the down position. The other day I saw a 260 rt with what looked like an OEM welded up steel tube kick stand that worked better as in not auto retract. It looked like your picture. Are they interchangeable? So, If I could find one, could it be mounted to the 2018 300? Both parts of my 300 kickstand are aluminium and I don't weld aluminium. I can weld steel so if both parts of the 260 kickstand are steel, I could also bend and weld to suit. Does anyone have one for sale? I'm in the US.

Are there any secrets to removing the chain tensioner pivot bolt on a 2018 300 4rt? So far I have tried penetrating oil, heat and a few heat cycles. Does a steel bolt thread right into an aluminium pivot?

Has anyone done this? Could the Evo 4T share cases with any other Beta models so it may be possible with factory parts?

I had an 2001 and it also had the twin piston rear brake. I don't know when Beta went to one piston. I believe 2000 had USD forks. This may help https://en.vindecoder.pl/en/

What you are describing sounds a little like this but Honda did not buy Montesa until later. TL250

Does this bike have higher compression?

When I first moved to a Beta, a 2008 model, I found the brakes to be too grabby for me. Someone suggested cutting an X in the pads with a hacksaw to reduce the brake force. I did and it worked for me... at least on that bike. Later, I liked the more powerful brakes.

Yes, it can be removed. IIRC, there is a hose fitting on the air box so you can run the breather from the engine directly to that fitting on the air box. I can't picture it but don't think this will help with your oil concern.

Without a picture of the center, it looks like an aluminum core with steel plate on front. Is so or even if not, you may be able to pry the magnets out, have the aluminium piece remade and epoxy the magnets back in place. You could take it to a shop that does machine work and ask. I found this also.

Can you post a picture of crack in part?

That sounds unique. Any pictures?

Maybe something along the lines of a Japanese flat track handlebar?

Clearance holes in the fins look a bit crude and not OEM so maybe a modification. However, it looks like there is a cast in boss where the plug threads in.

I have a TY250A with two spark plug holes. Did they come that way or could it be an aftermarket head? Online parts lists don't seem to show two but a drawing in the service manual looks to have two. I remember having a DT1 with a compression release but don't know if it was OEM or after market.

My 2008 had a magnesium side cover that was eaten away by corrosion in the water pump area. I believe the replacement part was aluminium.

I recently noticed a squeak at the rear wheel of a modern Triumph Tiger while lubing the chain. I could feel no drag and nothing had been changed. It turned out to be a dry seal on the outside of a wheel bearing. A little Teflon spray on the seal got rid of the squeak.

Pictures and details were helpful The kickstand on the TY250A does make it a bit crowded but at least it is easy to figure out placement. There were not many options.

I checked and valve clearances are good. The carb is a nice looking copy of an original so float height is 25 mm per the manual. The manual is a little confusing in that it says 25 mm to carb body but looking at the picture the gasket is in place so I set it 25 mm to the gasket. I cleaned the carb and will put in fresh gas to see what happens.

I have not been able to test with hot engine and cool air temperatures. It is hot engine and high air temps. There is no heat shield. The front muffler (bulge in exhaust) is near the carb and I wonder if wrapping it in heat shield would be the same as a heat shield. It has a Chinese copy of an OEM type 22 mm Keihin carb. I did have to increase the throttle slide cut away to get rid of an off idle stumble. I wonder if I could have gone too far. I have what I believe to be the OEM TL250 slide to copy but no other OEM carb parts. I'll check timing and valve clearance.

My TL250 can be finicky when starting hot, like 90 degrees and low humidity. Are there any tricks or methods that may help? With near full choke and maybe 1/3 throttle it starts very easy cold.

Can you buy a modern throttle and cable for a TY250 with original Teikei carb? The only cable I see available is for the original throttle. Or do you buy a Domino or Amal throttle and make your own cable? Are cables somewhat standard between carbs such that if I move on to a mikuni or OKO would the same cable work? Are other carbs an improvement over the Teikei? I'm not seeing Teikei jets or parts available so it make be best to change anyway.

Looking on ebay, the DT style shafts are readily available.

I have a 2001. I was able to get air filters and a rear caliper but that is all I have needed. The 01 cylinder is different in that the lower water connection is through the cases rather than through a hose like later Rev3s. I suspect the later cylinder could be made to work but don't know for sure. I would worry most about getting plastics like a rear fender or air box parts. Are there sources for them?

Yes, mine is a 250A. The kick stand mounts to the main frame and there is not a lot of space to move the peg. Thanks. Did you use weld on peg mounts or make your own?