spenser

Do not use electric car charge points. The EM bikes are sold with a charger which is programmed to accurately and safely charger the battery on the bike. Electric cars have the charger built in to the car, with charge points being “dumb”, unable to provide the variables needed by the EM battery BMS. S

I had no issue with a low idle, but have been having high idle issues. I think it happens when I ride in wet conditions as the bike started to run very well when the rains stopped and it had a chance to dry out. Higher idle returned a couple of hours after riding again during rain showers, so thinking I need to go through the electrics. Another friend with a 2018 250 found a burnt/melted plug under the flywheel cover which was causing him various issues. Spencer

My apologies for the late reply. Found the map in this forum under a thread that was set up to share Vertigo maps.

I had a similar issue, but the bike was used (2020 Vertical 250), so I was unsure of the mapping; ran rough as well. I bought the Wificom device, tracked down the factory map (from helpful people here) then adjusted to suit which was just tweaking the lower ranges of throttle position and rpm to ensure proper running. By my feeling, the previous owner had run the bike too rich on the bottom, but the factory map kind of felt too lean given the plug colour and the fan being on 98% of the time during a ride when the ambient air was 20ish degrees C. I added a bit of fuel to the bottom as noted above, did nothing to the ignition curve, and it runs very well now. I also set up the second map for high altitude given that our riding areas locally range form 100 feet above sea level to 6000 feet. I have yet to try it above 3000 feet as the snow is still quite low here. spencer

I have been finding that the plug cap is the problem, never had to replace a single plug through the 5 or 6 TRRS bikes that I have owned. I think that the act of changing a plug helps with the connection, making it appear that the plug change has fixed the problem, when it will only reappear in the near future. s

Hi, After having gone through the whole forum (if memory serves), and exhausted other channels, I have two questions regarding a 2020 250 Vertical: 1: how does a person determine the correct fill level for the coolant? 2: does anyone have a chart of ambient temperature versus ohms resistance for the sensor mounted to the air box? Thanks for all replies S.

Previous finger height was about 17mm, but you may also find that there is a buildup of filings and other detritus behind the pressure plate and spring which is often a cause of a stiff clutch. Spencer

It may help if you could describe what it is that you want to improve. It is mineral oil, the gasket material will not effect the operation or feel of the clutch, but I have found that the best measure for the operation of the clutch is between the end of the fingers to the hub, which if memory serves should be around 17.5mm. Less than this, or more than this results in softer or harder lever feel, with the possibility of slipping or dragging. Spencer

I could be wrong about this, but I think that I have seen a picture of a Jotagas with a GasGas Pro kick start lever. Worth a try. S

Thanks.

I have been trying to access their site, which I did use earlier in the week, but for the last day or so the address appear to be no good. I have also been awaiting an email reply, but that has not come. Does anyone know the state of the company? Spencer

That is a hard no.

We have had more than one of these bikes crack the frames on the lower mounts under the engine; the frames are - as stated above - like butter, but also like glass. If the lower mount let go, the engine drops, which is what it looks like in your picture. S

This is a common occurrence, as I have it happen to several bikes, especially after they have been laid down on their left side for anything other than a short period of time. am guessing that when this happens, oil is plugging the vent passage through the shaft, and when this happens, and the motor runs it is acting like a pump, a very slow pump at that. I normally stop this by attaching a short length of fuel line onto the fitting where the gearbox vent line attaches, and blowing into the line to clear the oil. There will be resistance as you are pressurizing the gearbox, but a couple of good strong pushes of air into the line should clear the oil. Make sure you clear the factory breather line and reservoir prior to reattaching. I have also replaced the black factory line with a translucent one so that I can see if oil is making its way up the line, Spencer

I have that much of the problem stems from a deposit of some foreign material on the shaft, making it hard for the seal to work. Removing the shaft and scraping it clean with a fingernail, or 600 grit paper has cured most leaking water pump seals that I have found. If one were to replace the single water side seal without cleaning off the shaft, the leak will more than likely return shortly.. S.

I understand that in the redesign of the engine to accommodate the new kickstart mechanism and main bearings etc., they included a new mount for future use at the front of the exhaust. It would appear that newer models will use an additional exhaust mount, but for now that mount hole goes unused.

Lots of interesting advice has been given, so thought I might add some. Pre-load both ends to 30% sag with full riding kit on. You at 200lbs "dry" may need to change springs to attain this level of sag on the Vertigo. Tire pressure as suggested at 4 (rear) 6 (front) at the elevation you ride at. I mention this because we ride from 200 feet to 5000 feet on a regular ride, during which the tire pressure change quite a bit during the ride. To "soften" the ride, one may consider removing compression damping, and possibly increasing rebound damping. An increase in the rebound damping has an interesting, some would say detrimental effect on the bike; you loose traction. The rear tire cannot get back onto the ground as quickly, and therefore traction is compromised. It is softer to ride, so one has to adjust to suit ones riding style and preference knowing the trade-off. I would normally run the compression almost wide open, leaving enough to ensure that I do not bottom too hard or often. If you have high and lower speed compression adjustment, try running the low at wide open, and adjusting the high speed to control the bottom-out issue. Try to keep the front and rear reacting in a similar fashion. If the front is soft and the rear is harder, the out of balance condition results is a less predictable bahaviour. 5 weight oil in the fork is best as suggested by the manufacturer of both the bike and the fork. Do not run the rear lower than the front as this messes with the steering geometry, making the bike "fall" to the inside of corners. I hope that this helps

Jitsie have them for including the frame, silencer etc.

I just removed a bit of the edge of the lid with a sharp blade, it appears to be just a tad to big to easily snap into place. Never an issue since. S.

Manufacturer's numbers are to be taken with caution, as they have historically been - with a few exceptions - as reliable true as a Trump tweet. I would be interested in horsepower and torque curves as compared to the current batch of gas powered bikes, 2t and 4t, but for that one would need access to the right equipment, and providing the testing to a recognized standard. On the other hand, it would be great to have the bikes ridden by a third party that could offer a unbiased feeling. For example, does the 12KW bike ride like a 200 cc 2t, or a 250 cc 2t? In addition what does it really mean when they say "four hour battery"? The battery provided with the Electric Motion is good for about an hour where we ride, although it is very mountainous here, so not a fair comparison. I am sure that electric motors vary in their efficiency, and therefore comparing batteries by their Amp/Hour ratings may also not provide apples to apples. I am sure that as time passes, and the electric bike market matures, these questions and more will be answered. S.

We have always used punch cards, and unless it is a National or larger regional event, it is run as group check. small groups of riders, say 4 people or so, with a couple of punches per group. The first person to a section dismounts and checks the other riders, one of riders through the section check the checker. Pretty quick, some sections can be checked from the que, some not, you do not punch your own card, unless a clean. Everyone checks, with the makeup of the groups coming from the sign-in sheets.

I started with a 2016 280, bone stock which I really liked, then out of curiosity went to a 300, added a Reiger shock and the Keihin carb. Decided that I liked the 280 better, so I got another 280 and transferred the shock and carb over to it as they are great upgrades. All of the RR models were sold out in Canada so could not get one in a 280cc size. The last 280 is a 2017. The only thing that I have worn out is the tire on the 300; great bikes. Spencer

Just a point of curiosity; do you find that you need to "rev it to clear it out"? I have had three TRS bikes, two with Dellorto carbs, and one with a Keihin carb, none required clearing out once the carbs were adjusted for the local conditions. You may want to pull the plug just after clearing it out, and check the colour to ensure that it is not running lean which can cause the run-on. Spencer

On the Beta I always remove the caliper pucks to remove the spooge that gathers in behind them. You can't ever get a guaranteed good bleed as the fluid will not flush through the circuit in behind the pucks. split the calipers, remove the pucks, fill the pockets with new fluid, install the clean pucks, and reassemble. Better brakes in most cases.

After riding GasGas for quite a few years, Beta for a while, and now TRS, I would agree with evoalien. I like to think of the TRS as engineered simplicity. Rides very well, easy to set-up and maintain, excellent transmission and power, and plastics that won't break given a stern look!