shercoman2k8

Oko 'Nuff said!

Dougie, you got MSN or AIM? If so PM me your address and I'll talk you through what needs to be done... Could be quite simple, or, on the other hand could be pretty damn hard! Also, as said above, they have a legal obligation to take it back, you should know that with your dad's history... Good luck!

Do a few simple things first, check your plug is tight, if not tighten it up. Done it a few times myself, done the plug in with fingers then forgot to use a spanner on it. If it is tight it could maybe do with a new o ring in there. Do you know if the bikes been sat long? Could just be burning carbon off from it not being opened out enough, happens quite a lot in the bigger engines. Try draining the fuel, cleaning airbox and carb and then using fresh fuel with the correct mix, sometimes if its been sat the two stroke settles at the bottom of the tank. Does the bike smoke after the engines killed? If so its just carbon burning up! Check its the correct plug too. If this doesn't work I suggest checking your head gasket and piston rings. New set of rings will always freshen up an old bike! Let us know how you get on, Jamie

Was down there, bloody good trial. Weather held out till midway through the second lap... only a few light showers though. Was some brilliant riding shown too. Took the old man with me, he was speechless the whole way through apart from the few "Holy ****" moments. Mary was on hand to provide some excellent food, best burgers in Lochaber IMO. Big thanks to Arthur for laying out such good sections, was good variation between red and blue but trying to use as many of the same obstacles by the looks of things. Also a big thanks to all the observers for using there day off to come and help out, couldn't be done without them! All in all a very good day, well worth the journey. Saw the TC scoobie there so expect some cracking shots later!

At a guess I would say a bent or out of place shifting fork. Before that though there should be a small screw inside the clutch/flywheel cover, can't remember which as I have only stripped down a beta and not sure if its all opposite. This may need adjusting slightly till you get a positive click in both directions, if you cant obtain a positive click in both I would reccomend checking your gearbox internals. Split the cases and you'll see which side there on, check these are all posistioned securely and none are snapped... Check it all out and get back to us! If you go on youtube with 30 mins spare and check the engine strip down videos (all three) In one of which it shows the adjuster screw, if this doesn't work it shows the full strip down procedure(sp?) Best of luck, Jamie Edit: lean the bike on its side to adjust the screw, saves draining the fluid for something simple... thats if it is that!

Well, theres a few different options but guessing by your name your after a Gas Gas. At thirteen I wouldn't get a cadet, you may find it a bit small and you will soon be wanting to move on, it is certainly better to get a bike and spend time getting used to it than get a bike and have to get rid soon as you grow too big! I moved from a Yamaha pw80 to a Beta rev3 250cc when I was twelve but prefer 125's for the more useable power so got a sherco 125 a few months later. So... 125's, im sure you want a really light bike but to be honest you wouldn't notice the difference between a Gasser, Beta or Sherco if moving from a TY. Gas Gas are the lightest but sherco have the most bottom end... something you will come to love, unlike the Beta's or Gassers you can do most stuff in second or third gear, they are also easiest to work on. Beta's are said to have the best build quality but it is very hit and miss, many have problems but these should arise within the first few months and be covered by warranty, that is if your buying new, even if second hand, find a good one and it will last for years but they are the heaviest of the lot. Gas Gas are certainly the lightest of the lot but not too torquey. We dont know what goes on in your mind and what you prefer so cant tell you what to get. We can however point you in the right direction if you give us more info! So, after reading above are you interested in a 125? Are you good at bike maintenance? Are you bothered about weight? How long you planning on keeping it? What year model are you looking for? Whats your budget? Many regards, Jamie

Seems to be, it will give enough to flex with the mudgard... Shall report back after a few falls!

Slightly yes. Theres enough flex for when you knock the bike over against something Ran some sandpaper over it to see how it wears, no chance of my legs wearing through it anytime soon!

4th gear, high rev run over rough terrain... The combination between vibration and heat should loosen it up and burn it off!

I thought they were aluminium, read on a spec page somewhere that they were anodised black!

See if the chroming company can do black chrome. If not the best bet is to get it anodised, your local garage will have contacts that can do it, should cost around

As mentioned in my other topic I have found a much simpler solution that requires no forming, cutting or any of that nonsense. Clear yacht varnish... works a treat, just layer it on daily with a brush till you have a fairly thick layer protecting your graphics, doesn't break the bank either!

Im sure Mr G wouldn't be very happy if I called you the words I wanted to call you right now! Actually, I have found a solution apart from that film, clear yacht varnish... how did one forget about this stuff... works great! Will probably wait for the '10 models and get a standard bike, as you said they have plenty of torque and are so nice to ride, my saving plan, if I dont spend anything un-nescessary means I should have the money by october... Then, if I dont like the '10 models get a backstock 09 for a reasonable amount cheaper!

As long as it doesn't leak I would personally shove about half a litre of fuel in there and give it a bloody good shaking... this should remove the worst of the rust! From here I reckon it would be best to cut the tank neatly open, give it a scrub then a good coat of decent metal paint, unless your a bloody good welder swish the tank in the bath, get it welded properly and then neaten up the outside with paint to match the frame. I always thought the tank was one peice without a cover or you meaning after market parts to hide the rust?

Simple method without faffing around with fluids. Remove fender and cross brace, Slide forks out of yokes. Do the following steps in a vice or clamped upright to something one leg at a time; Remove dustcaps, if in good condition keep... if not replace! Remove seal clip Pry out fork seals with a precision screwdriver or bearing gripper, Replace seals, use old seals to drive new ones into posistion Re-insert seal clip, Replace dustcaps Slide forks back into yokes, measure 5 or 10mm (depends on preference) from yoke to top of fork, tighten clamp, repeat using the same measurement on the other side! Replace cross brace and fender Re-insert wheel (remember to grease spindle and hub... also grease cross brace bolts) Sounds complicated but if you take your time its perfectly simple! If you would like to like to change the oil at the same time drain the forks whilst the seals are out, remove the caps on the forks, flush with half the correct amount of fluid. Once seals and dus tcaps are back in fill the non spring side through the top cap with correct quantity. Spring side: remove the internal components through the top cap, should just be two little spacers and a spring, place these in order on a clean surface... fill fork with correct amount of oil, pump up and down a few times and reinsert the components in the correct order, replace cap. Once forks are in bike bounce up and down compressing the forks a few times, release the caps ever so slightly till you hear hissing, put weight on the front end and tighten.. now adjust to how your son likes! Sounds daunting but it really isnt....

That looks smaller than a 290, dont you think? But alas, using a translator... it is only available in the 290 2t and 320 4t

I THINK it may stand for "who gives a **** anyhow" Am I correct?

Yeah, I know there pretty well tuned but would it be noticeable to somebody at say... club level? Its going to be another few months before I can get the money together, maybe around september, hopefully the newer models will of been released by then! Its definately going to be a Sherco as they have the most bottom end out of the lot, I quite like the gas gas but kind of want to stay with the sherco as I have around

anybody?

Fair enough, was just wondering if there would be a noticeable difference! Apart from the reworked head and the different graphics theres pretty much no difference is there?

Hey all, Have been planning a new bike soon, it will be my first ever brand new bike so don't min spending a small bit extra to make sure it's the right bike for me. Was always thinking of just getting the normal 1.25 but then saw the academy and racing models! What are the differences between the racing and stock and the academy and stock? Is there anything I should be wary about? I heard the racing has a high comp head on it, does this speed up engine deteriorisastion... rings, bearings and the like? Is it really worth spending that bit extra to get a finely tuned motor or am I better buying the normal 1.25 and using the money saved on some decent footpegs and to add a few performance/pimp parts myself? I feel inclined to choose the later as I will be able to get it dead on perfect for my riding whereas there isnt much left to be tuned on the academy and racing models? Would I feel that much of a difference between them or is it something only really noticeable at a pro level? Is it true the academy is only 150 euros dearer than the standard 125? So yeah, any advice greatfully welcomed, Regards, Jamie

Ohhh shizer... I meant to say de-ionised again! Really shouldn't write on here when doing chemistry homework... Was doing a 3000 word essay about fractional distillation I apologise for getting me mords wuddled! Oh god... wrong type of distillation again

Lampkins dont have any torque values apparently but Sherco, Gas Gas and Scorpa all say 45 ft lbs or 60 Nm. Cant go far wrong with that! All the best, Jamie

If I recall the 06 gasser uses synthetic oil only, the effects of using mineral can be quite surprising... Just so happens that most putoline gearbox oils are mineral and there synthetic a rather silly price! Also, your plates could of swollen? The tolerance is around 9.74-9.77mm if i remember correctly! This means taking the clutch basket out and measuring the thickness of all the plates together if they measure more than 9.75mm this is probable the problem, You will need you buy an alternate plate to reduce it down to 9.75mm. If you phone gas gas uk they could sort you out with a steel plate to bring the thickness back down to the proper figures! If you dont fancy buying stuff take the thickest plate to your local machinist and get him to skim it slightly to reduce the thickness although this is likely to increase clutch slippage! Do you know any history of the bike? has there been a water contamination in the oil? water pump seal gone in the past? Also sometimes a change in oil can cause plates to swell!

To make the throttle unusable when she's on it Ive found the easiest thing to do is pop the end of the cable off of the tube and remove the roller, this means your in control of the throttle using the tickover! once she's comfortable with this reatach the throttle, loosen the positive going to the kill switch, not too much, just enough so that with a gentle tug it will pop out. Tie a small peice of rope to the wire and hold it to the bars and down to around the footpeg with LOOSE cable ties, this way you can still give it a tug but it doesn't get in her way! If she over does it give the rope a tug and it will kill the engine.... Preferably use quite a long rope so she feels in control without you right by her! Edit: Actually, dont use rope, too bulky... use a ball of string!