woody

Grippers were fitted with both Telesco and Betor, I think it was the early 250 that had the Telesco. All MAR and Green bikes had Betor Bultaco are all Betor Montesa usually Telesco, later 80s models looked similar to Marzocchi but I think they were still made by Telesco

And when they need repacking, as well as sounding awful they don't run very well at low revs

Probably cheaper to get them re-chromed than fit something else as no forks are cheap and you have to have yokes too, then make the front wheel fit or replace that too. About £160 for re-chrome collected and delivered by Philpotts. Forks alone will cost you that and you have to hope they are in good order if buying unseen on sonmeone's word

Yes, the Rev 3 rear mudguard was very fragile and snapped easily, especially if you had your hand under it to lift the rear of the bike. I rolled my Rev 3 backwards and just touched a stone wall which was enough to break a piece off the tip of i

Not sure about your spacers as the one on the L/H side doesn't look long enough and the one for behind the brake plate doesn't look like a top hat. The flange of the top hat is very thin as seen on the new spindle as it sits just proud of the bearing oil seal face whereas the tube part is a push fit into the seal The spacer on the L/H hand side also pushes into the bearing oil seal and is long enough that part of it sticks out and is visible. I don't have one loose so can't measure anything at the moment. Your looks too short maybe?

L/H fork has the sleeve which as you note, extends from the inside of the leg. Then there is a spacer (just a straight tube, no top hat) R/H fork the brake plate sits against the fork leg but there is a top hat spacer inside the hub which sits between the brake plate and the bearing. The brake arm spring is located against the front of the brake plate inside the fork leg - it can only locate/work one way and it sounds as though it is correct on yours When the spindle is pulled through on the nut it will just about recess into the L/H fork leg up against the sleeve. The sleeve will only pull through as far as the spacer will let it. If you have no spacer the nut will continue to pull the spindle through as it is pushing the sleeve which has no spacer to locate against It's hard to tell from the picture of the new spindle but I'm guessing that the spacer shown next to the spindle head is the actual spacer and not the sleeve and that the sleeve isn't shown.

You can buy the older airbox new from Spain for 159 to 191 models from here - www.motosdelabuelo.com I haven't seen them available outside of Spain. Interestingly they list the 158/159 box seperately from the rest, I thought they were all the same (apart from the sidepanels which are concave or convex fro 350 / 250)

I hadn't actually looked on the front page, I was checking the club website but hadn't seen them so assumed they hadn't been finished at that point, then saw this post and thought I may have missed them on the club website. Checked again but still couldn't see them so got curious as to where they were which was when I posted the question - then immediately found them on the front page of TC... ( still can't see them on the club site though? ) Don't worry, wasn't complaining as I know what it's like having to do the results afterwards on top of everything else that goes into the trial.

Where did you find the results? I can't see them on the website Edit - just seen them on the front page....

10/52..? Really or was that a typo for 10/42. I found 10/42 about as low as I would want to go, 10/52 would be far too low for me to even use first

It was D.O.A that made them if I remember. Never had one but heard they were not good quality and would break. I made my own using a Beta kickstart and welding the Beta swivel onto the Sherpa knuckle. In the end though I preferred the action and look of the Bultaco kicker so sold it on.

Bultaco

Yes, Fraser frame

The Hi Boy frame sold by Miller was for the TL125 The Hi Boy 305 was a works bike and Miller's own development bike, not available to the public. The TL250 wasn't on sale in the UK through Honda so there was no market for a Hi Boy frame for the 250 Whether a 250 engine will fit the 125 frame I don't know, you'd have to offer it up and see. The 305 works bike was a long stroke which retained the 250 bore, it wasn't a big bore 250. Fraser did a frame for the TL250 which used a big bore for a 305 engine

The Miller frames were for the TL125 but Whitlock did make a batch of Whitehawk frames for the TLR200/250 and the RS range a few years ago. There's not really anything wrong with the standard TLR frame, they're light, don't break and all they need if you want a more modern feel is lowered footpegs and tighter steering. Whitehawk is no lighter than a TLR frame.

Yo don't say what you have on the rear. Original gearing on MK1 was 12 / 46 which became 11 / 42 from MK2 onwards. They're virtually the same ratio, 3.82 and 3.83 I've run 10 / 42 before which gives 4.20 ratio which gave a still useable low first. Using the 10 front puts it lower than you really need I think and the 10 also gives problems with the chain catching on the sprocket nut. There is a nut with a shoulder which faces against the sprocket to space the edge of the nut away from the sprocket to clear the chain and you need this for a 10 The dished sprocket from Spain that is reproduced now is 44 tooth and I find 11 / 44 low enough in bottom, ratio being 4.00

Beamish Owners club do a replacement system if ever you need one http://www.beamishownersclub.com/for-sale/

Yes, but are you going to re-chrome an entire frame for a weld repair about 10mm long that you can barely see. I used it when I welded on new footrests brackets and it's not really noticeable unless you're right on it The weld has to be covered with something so I can't think of anything that will blend in better than the chrome paint. And in the end they're just trials bikes that get knocked to hell when ridden regularly

Halfords chrome paint should also make a small repair almost invisible

The cable with the threaded rod at the end is the longer cable, therefore suits the longer swingarm. The cable with the adjuster in the 'middle' is the shorter cable and therefore is for the MK1 swingarm.

250 and 310 MAR

Yes, the bolts go through all three

The kickstart will clear the pegs with the TYOffroad kit

Rockshocks are twice the price of steel body Falcons. Alloy Falcons probably about the same price

No idea what the thread size is but if your flywheel is brass coloured it uses the same puller as the MAR or any other Ossa motoplat flywheel - as above, available from In Motion. They're R/H thread