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Sounds to be how I remember, use all the new parts to be safe.
When you open the clips you need to twist it to remove it
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The kit for ditching the switchgear is very simple & easy to fit.
Have a look in the pinned manuals at the top & you'll find the instructions to do it
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If the switch is in the radiator it screws in, if it's in a housing midway along the the hoses then to remove it you need to open up the metal clip piece then pull out the switch.
Replacing it is as simple as pushing back into the rubber sleeve & closing the clip back up. Did the switch come with a new sleeve & clip or do you need to reuse the original?
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Not unheard of, my 290 has this issue every now & then
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Pretty sure it's a straight swap
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Compare part numbers on www.csmnl.com to get an idea, would think that quite a few parts would interchange between dt's & ty's
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Strip the carb & clean the jets, sounds like your pilot jet is blocked
It runs with the choke on because it's a seperate circuit to the other jets
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If you mean can the early wheel with bushes be modified to take normal bearings then the answer is yes, you need a machinist with a decent size mill to do it without needing to disassemble the wheel
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Club's first aid kit
Stewards warrant card
Replacement stator for my sherco that wasn't the problem but insures ot won't be needed
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Do you mean the last 1 where his feet come off the pegs & he nose dives down onto the front wheel/fork rather than the ground?
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The article states better lifespan than a aluminium piston, theres the reason why it got dropped, not enough high priced replacements needed for the manufacturers tastes
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You've picked it correctly, the thermoswitch is sticking which mine does every so often.
I wouldn't worry too much as the only thing that will happen is the bike takes longer to warm up
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I doubt carrying it on a rack will have any effect, I carried mine that way from new up until I bought a new car without a towbar & haven't had any problems
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So you're saying when they actually were pre65 bikes then
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You need to remember that their gallon is smaller-3.8lt to 4.5lt, probably about the same price in comparison though
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See your local kart shop, there is a product the guys use to soften up old tyres that is referred to as tyre dope over here
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The manual I have for mine was done by cycleserv, I got it from a company called computer outpost in Australia, think they may sell them on ebay still
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-Workshop-Manual-TY250-Trials-1974-1975-1976-1977-and-1978-SERVICE-Repair-/380393159894?hash=item589132fcd6&item=380393159894&pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&vxp=mtr
This is the manual I have from a different seller here in NZ & should be what you're looking for
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I've seen conventional plastic levers before but never anything like them
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Hmm might have to try that, it's the start of summer here now & that could be a way to prove it's not the temp but the fuel change that lead to the tank returning to original size
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Sounds like what my 01 did years ago, the nut holding the hub had loosened off & was forcing the pressure plate outwards.
Take the clutch apart & check to see that the nut sits below the end of the gearbox shaft
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Because they have to try & save the class somehow now that the price of running 4 strokes has proven to be too high for most teams. Don't think it'll work though
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Not an official entry from BMW or Aprilia, they're claiming rule bikes which are basically superbikes with aftermarket frames & lap times around 3-5seconds a lap slower going on the tests earlier in the year
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Looks like a pretty slim grid if thats a complete list, gone are the days of a decent sized field & I don't hold much hope of any improvement when the prototypes are phased out as has been talked about for the future
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Interesting to note the only bikes to jump from the concrete block to wall were 2 strokes.
I'd forgotten just how ugly the rear guard was on the Scorpa 4 stroke, haven't seen 1 of those for a couple of years & glad that there wasn't more people with no taste who bought them
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Dead easy to work on, only thing that has ever been a issue as far as maintenence goes is the raditor cap is fiddly to get at properly although the later black framed bikes may have been better in that regard
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