paulmac

Hey Mags Are you in NSW? Paul Mac

Bultaco never used RAL codes - they mixed and matched paint colour 'by eye'

I can shed a bit of light - Our AU importer recommended Power Reeds to me with local 'research' suggesting the Dual Stage provide more power and shaper response across the throttle range with the Carbon reeds having more effect at the top end. I needed to drop down on the main jet(120 down to 118 and air screw in from where I had it by between a quarter and a half turn. Needle standard in the mid position. Definitely sharper off the bottom. Mid-range clean and sharp and power delivery very smooth through the first 3/4 of throttle movement. IMHO they are heaps better than the standard. Hope helps a bit. Paul Mac

I've been a 250 man most of life but last year I went for the 280 pro. For me there is a marked difference - the 280 is more powerful but it comes in much smoother off the bottom. not sure what it's like at the top end cos I've never been there...

received this reply from Boyesen yesterday... thanks again hrc1 Hello Paul, Thank you for choosing Boyesen reeds. At this time, the Boyesen reeds, part # 6TR123 and part # 6TR121 are the same exact reeds. We have assigned different part numbers to these reeds, in case there are changes necessary in the future. With best regards, Boyesen Engineering 8 Rhoades Road Lenhartsville, PA 19534 USA tel # 610-756-6818 / 800-441-1177 fax # 610-756-4102 E-mail: info@boyesen.com

Thought I’d just let you know how the installation went and the results in its first competition on Sunday. – hope this helps any other would be users. Installation is simple enough – hrc 1 – they are the new ‘2012’ shape. One thing I wasn’t expecting was I had to remove the exhaust to get to the inside reed cage bolts cleanly. Bike on stand and chocked the from and rear wheels since the back box is located on the top shocker bolt. Bit of a pain lining everything up but got it right in the end. I’m running 98 octane fuel at 85-1 with fully synthetic Putoline and an iridium plug gapped at 0.6 mm. Timing as standard. Needed to drop down two sizes on the main jet ( 120 down to 118) and air screw in form where I had it by between a quarter and a half turn. Needle is standard in the mid position. I have to say they perform exactly as it ‘says on the tin’... definitely sharper off the bottom – had me caught out a couple of times early on when I arrived over the top of a step a bit quicker than I expected. Mid-range was clean and sharp and power delivery very smooth through the first 3/4 of of throttle movement - didn’t have any ‘full chat’ sections to try the top end out and the course was ‘man made’ arena type so no long high gear runs. So Dabster you were on the money when you said had to better than the standard IMHO they are heaps better. Paul Mac

Hi lowbrow - unfortunately the bike 'lives' 2 hours drive away - just trying to save myself two trips Hi hrc1 - that's super cool news - many thanks for taking the time and trouble to take and post a pic - awesome. Cheers all Paul Mac

Thanks for the input guy's seems to me that the cage and manifold would be different since the carb fittings differ but still not clear if the petals are any different. Paul Mac

Hi all Hoping someone can give me some advice. I have bought a set of power reeds for my 2013 Gas Gas TXT Pro 280 (Dellorto carb). Product code 6TR123 The label on the pack say's RAGA (which of course has a Keihin carburettor) product 6TR123 Boyesen's website suggest I should have bought 6TR121 Are the reeds the same? or do I have the wrong ones. Thanks in advance Paul Mac

Love that Header Pipe - V cool.

Thread lock or a small spring washer under the bolt head or thread seal tape on the end bolt threads - all work. Cheers Paul Mac

I've heard of this happening on Raga's - the oil way in the crank bearing on the transmission side is a hole drilled through the bearing that lines up with a hole in the casing. The Mag casing can expand a bit too much and the bearing turns thus cutting off the oil supply - bearing seal fails - fully or partially, and the resulting mess is burning lube, a real weak mixture and bl*****dy hot engine. This problem happened to mine when the oil way in the bearing was blocked by a bit of swarf. Also you could check that the ignition stator hasn't moved thus altering the timing. good luck with the 'hunt'. Paul Mac Paul Mac

Kick starting a gasser is technique but you could check that the plug is gapped at 0.6mm. Most new plugs are gapped at 1.2mm out of the box. Paul Mac

Since I tend to fall off a lot my gear cops a bit of flack. I wear S3 gear - black with red and white bits. "Management" advice is as follows - brush off the heavy stuff - don't rub the oily bits - spray the stains with one of those magic spray stain removers and then cold wash and drip dry. Works for me so it helps. Paul Mac

Hi Smelling 123 - Can't remember the exact number but I do know they are the same as Woody's 340 - that's where I got the info. I did try one size leaner on the pilot for a while but changed back. By the way belated cheers Woody

I have an OKO 28 on my 198b - runs a treat. Paul Mac

Hi Greg I'm pretty sure its an Electrex unit but I've had it a while unfitted - I'll check when I'm back (interstate at the mo...) Cheers Paul Mac

Hey Greg - give Pete Bowker at Bultaco UK a go - I've got one going on the 198b shortly. Cheers Paul Mac

Hey Bondy = In the 'day', when the rear frame loop was cut and a strengthening band welded on (The saddle supplied with the 198b and 199b has a much beefier rear loop built in that achieved the same end) typically the guard was fitted above the band not below. Hope this helps with the semi period look. Cheers

Hi Mate Different strokes for different folks – I use a 10 tooth front (Clubman) it slows the whole deal down a bit which suits me – the standard length chain will be pretty close to the end of its adjustment with a 10 tooth and a bit too tight with a full link out – so you might need a half link or those super cool S3 adjusters with two sizes. Cheers Paul Mac

I've used Carbon look plastic film on my Pro - no problems and doesn't melt - It does shrink a little over time though. Paul Mac

It's the same blue Bondy. Paul Mac

Side stands from 07/08 on where much better - it's a simple bolt on swap from memory. Cheers Paul Mac

Yep - bend the tang that pushes on the float needle but be careful not to twist the assembly or your floats will end up uneven. Use two pairs of small snipe nose pliers one to hold the assembly near the tang and one to bend the tang. Cheers Paul Mac

Sounds like the Float might be set too low? Paul Mac