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paulmac

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Everything posted by paulmac
 
 
  1. The best way I've heard the difference described and it sums it up perfectly for me is that you feel like your standing IN a modern bike rather than ON an old bike.
  2. Hey Mate - I wore oiled Gaernes for a number of years - probably one of the most comfy boots I've ever worn but... they are a bit shorter then most and I coped a number of peg wacks between the top of the boot and knee. Probably my 'riding style but worth noting'. cheers
  3. Both great machines - the only way you'll really know which suits you best is try em both. Visit a local club day with your boots and helmet - there will always be someone prepared to let you try...
  4. paulmac

    Carb Removal

    122 - 45 on my 2015 300 - works for me. Cheers
  5. paulmac

    Footpegs

    The best I've had are the Raptor Titanium - cost an arm and leg but I recon they'll outlast me
  6. Right of passage... perfect
  7. The heat gun is the magic bit - do it on your remaining decals too.
  8. Try here http://www.thehellteam.com/products/boots-helmets-gloves-pants-jerseys/riding-pants/jitsie-edge-riding-pants.html
  9. Love the period bird poo on the fork yolk
  10. Hi arfur - Not a training centre but you might find these helpful http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9151
  11. Hey hrmad - you might find these helpful.. http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9151
  12. At last Sherco have managed to re create the Sherpa
  13. You could also try an appropriate size socket from a screw driver bit set and grip the tang with a mini mole wrench. Not the most elegant of engineering but it works. if you've not had the head off a gasser before the o rings can be a bit temperamental. Get new ones, give em a slight stretch and coat them in a little grease to help em stich in the groves and all should be cool Paul Mac
  14. I use a 1/4 in drive socket and a universal joint attachment. You could try one those flexible drives too. Paul Mac
  15. A fine Scoth-brite pad and WD40 won't damage the surface too much and you should be able to 'blend in' any rub marks up to the weld join to make it less obvious. As taffe says the Carbon guards work well. Paul Mac
  16. paulmac

    198B Frame S/arm

    There were no grease nipples on my 198B swing arm when new.
  17. The small Jitsie snail cams worked for me - just... Paul Mac
  18. It's also marked 280 on the Cdi unit.
  19. The two main differences I found when changing from a 250 to 280 where - 1. the 280 was 'snapier' i.e. it comes on more quickly and more strongly when you wind on the throttle and 2. the 280 has more torque low down which means you can lug it at lower revs without stalling. All in all I won't be going back to a 250. Hope this helps. Cheers Paul Mac
  20. 400 ml should be close - top tip from our local 'hot shots' is two thirds up the sight glass with bike standing on both wheels. Paul Mac
  21. paulmac

    Removing Rad

    Just done the same job on my 2013 280 after a slight whoopsy... Sadly You'll need to remove the head to get it out. Top tip from our local importer was when you come to re fitting the o rings rub them liberally with grease and stretch them a wee bit - they should then sit in the groves nicely while you re fit the head. Also gives you the chance to clean up any carbon on the head and piston so worth the effort IMHO. hope this helps Paul Mac
  22. paulmac

    198A Rebuild

    And carpet on the garage floor "luxury..."
  23. Hey Mags Sounds cool - if you're ever down in NSW let me know - there are a number of clubs down here that run good Clubman lines in their trials and Pacific Park run day access with great camping facilitates. Cheers mate
 
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