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About mattylad

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    Lots of old rubbish

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  1. Thanks perfect picture, was the void behind the perforated tube filled with a sound absorption media?
  2. This is definitely a 301 exhaust, and it has he stamping as quoted.
  3. I have just burnt out a 301exhaust (FM450 DGM 38234 S stamped on it) and wondered if it needed repacking. Inside the middle box there is a perforated tube for around 250mmm. Would this have had sound absorption packing in the void behind? Any information photos of internals would be most welcome The rest of the internals appear to be a flattened cone leading into an expansion area. Same question as applies for the rear silencer (Fm237 DGM40127 S). Was there any internal packing or was it an expansion/chicane type.
  4. I am looking for a 2mm oversize piston for a Ty175. I assume it will have to be aftermarket, does anyone know of a brand that lasts as it will be on its last bore and the porting is good. The new 1.5mm that was in when I bought the cylinder has lasted about 2 trials before starting to rattle hence the question and I cannot identify the brand
  5. Fanticmatze, I thought it was strange that you were not at the Dudelange trial, but I guess you had a pretty good excuse. All the very best for the future!!
  6. If the same rules were applied in Belgium elsewhere then bikes we weighed during scruiteneering so a baseline was established. They were then weighed at the end of one of the laps when they were covered in mud even so they had to weigh more than 70kg. Surely it would be quite easy to present your bike to the scruiteneers with a reserve tank full of fuel and if it is on or over 70kg you are (almost) certain to be OK during the trial. The rules are clear from the start, if you get it wrong no point in blaming FIM it is down to team preperation.
  7. Doug is a mega star no doubt, however Sammy won a GP road race and Six Day Enduro gold medals so is perhaps the more "all rounder". Different times different options.......
  8. Also check that the square that connects the cam to the lever is still so. What happens if not that the lever twists slightly before jamming hence you cannot get a 90 degree pull on the cable even if the brake works ok. Try to source a cam which has a splined end. I seem to recall using a ty Yamaha one in the past.
  9. Yes they do make a difference. I use the dual set and they bike lugs down lower but more importantly it hangs on to max power longer. Can't advise on jetting on the TK as I use a Pwk 28mm jetted for a GG 280. If you want a more modern feel remove some or all of the extra flywheel weight.
  10. Nope although has been rewelded in the past, large piece of anti vibration foam at the joint.
  11. Air cooled mono class should mean the 245 sells better and has more options to compete. The key-roo is beyond reasonable expenditure to restore, plus they were never very good to begin with.
  12. I want the forks for a twinshock project and dont need the Keyroo. Also the keyroo suspension is genuinely better between these two bikes.
  13. I have a Fantic 245 (monoshock with conventional forks) and a rough key-roo (1993 model with purple tank and red side scoops, although it has a later alloy middle box fitted). I wonder if it is possible to take the entire USD fork from the key roo and fit to the 245, does anyone know if they are a straight swop I am most concerned about the steering head length and bearing equivalence. The same question goes for the rear suspension unit. Are they the same length and fitment? I know I could strip both bikes to find out but think it is too much effort to find the answer is no and have to rebuild them again. The reason I want to do this is the key-roo suspension feels much better than the very soft on both ends 245 units. Any help most appreciated as fantics are not really my thing and specification data seems hard to come by.
  14. Many thanks for the image, I will now do mine in the same way. The colour of my tank is a little darker but in light of what you wrote above I will just add the stripe.
  15. I have an early 1975 325 Sherpa fitted with a UK spec Homerlite alloy tank seat unit. It is the same as fitted to the bike on the Haynes manual cover. It needs a respray so have two questions: What are the colour codes or description for the silver and blue paints. Does anyone have a period photo on how the silver stripe is painted on the top of the tank around the fuel filler cap. All the photos I have seen only show the side of the tank or the handlebar on full lock masks the view. I have seen one repainted tank that ends in a point behind the fuel cap but I wondered if the original design looped around the cap and if it did how close was it to the cap. Many thanks