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section swept

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Everything posted by section swept

  1. Zundapp Trials.

    Well I’ve just read about Gustav Franke and his impressive efforts riding a Zundapp Trials bike. I knew that they entered Enduros but had not considered Trials, even though most of the events were in my youth when I was totally Trials and Scrambling mad. All things considered this may have been a subject that’s already been covered on this website so directions please. I have seen and read the discussion about a Zundapp Trials bike being on eBay and noted some of the comments, does anyone know if these works bikes still live on? Looking on Google doesn’t give much more than I have read in a recent publication. To me Gustav appears to have been an excellent rider often beating Miller and Smith on many occasions and riding the SSDT with a broken foot....three open fractured metatasles. Any information please.
  2. 199a Front Brake

    Yes VS do a god job, have their trials spec rear shoves on my Sherpa.
  3. Casing numbers on 1961 Cub.

    Happy spannering🤗
  4. Oops! Bought another bike ...

    When all said and done it’s still a nice looking thing!
  5. Cracked clutch cover on 2014 Racing

    Very fragile design!
  6. Ossa MAR alloy tank.

    You may well have the correct tank, but the buck that was used to make the tank may be out, where did you get it from? Is that 10mm each side or overall? If this is the case then you only need 5mm clearance to be obtained either side. Have you contacted the supplier of the tank, they may be able to offer advice or suggest a fix as this won’t be a one off. You could try gently persuading the tank guides (for the rubber blocks) to move inwards by pressing against the area with a flat piece of plywood, a 2mm inset leaves 3mm to find. Try the tank on the frame with no rubbers and see what you have. I dare say if you could have been a fly on the factory ceiling ar Ossa, when the assemblers fitted the tank I suspect that there would have been a fair bit of pushing going on the achieve a fit. Overtime the tank would have given anyway what with the riders legs pushing up against the tank. Have you measured the old tank and have you checked to see if there is any depressions around the tank slider mounts? Have you got the correct tank rubbers? Lube the slide mounts with silicone and the rubbers and try to gently persuade the tank on, shaving a little (1-2 mm) off the heads of the rubbers may also win you a little extra clearance. I hope you find a satisfactory fix 🙂
  7. You may be referring to plastic metal or chemical metal, these are a temporary repair and intended to be a permanent fix for a fuel tank. By the time you have removed a good proportion of the paint you will more than likely have a few more perforations to worry about. You say that this is just a couple of hundred pound bike, I think you’ll find that many people would love to be able to buy a Bultaco for a few hundred quid! What model exactly have got? It doesn’t matter really, they are all worth saving from binging ruined as field bikes etc. Even if you have limited funds restoring to trials riding/competition condition would be very worthwhile. It doesn’t matter what mskevor model of trials bike that you own, it will get scratched and properly so in rock strewn events. Painting over some of the chips and dings is relatively acceptable in most people’s eyes, being looked upon more as the ‘patina’ of use. Works bikes never had special paint finishes as they were work horses and just got cleaned up after an event. Keep you £200 Bultaco clean and well maintained, don’t bother about shiny finishes to the engine or wheels, just attend to that tank and prepare it as best you can, apply some correct colour for the model type and don’t worry about orange peel, “they’re all like that sir!”. Ride and enjoy. By the way there is a kit sold in the auto market place called Petseal and there must be others available that you might consider. After you wasted a few quid on buggering about trying to seal the split, some welders are quite prepared to weld a steel fuel tank, and if they have the skill, knowledge and equipment will weld aluminium fuel tanks. It’s a matter of getting rid of any residue fuel and vapour, sticking the tank filler over a running cars exhaust and filling the tank with exhaudt fumes fo a few minutes can work but you need to know what you are doing. Steaming the inside can also work, welding with 20 foot extension poles gives a modicum of protection if it all goes pear shaped...I jest. Please don’t do any welding on the fuel tank without seeking the right person for the job. A new alloy tank will cost over £300 and a plastic tank for later Bultaco’s will be anything from £ 100 upwards depending on where you buy. Have a look at Shedworks, InMotion (Bultaco UK) or just type in alloy petrol tank, e-bay or other auction websites may have a good used one but you’ll pay through the nose prices. Hope this little lot is useful to you, whatever you do, forget that your bike only cost you a little under the cost of a replacement fuel tank and look after it.🙂👍
  8. OSSA MAR 4 speed?

    Ossa produced a bike called the Wildfire a sort of road bike with 230cc and a four speed gearbox.Ossa made very few of these and so they are rare. They also made a trail type bike called the Pioneer, this had a four speed transmission. I don’t think Ossa used a four speed gearbox in their trials bikes, other than in pre development stages of their trials iron, but I could be wrong. You may be looking at something like a cobbled up Trials special, take care with your money on this one.🙂🤔
  9. Casing numbers on 1961 Cub.

    Might be blue after you’ve rebuilt and fire it up....oil smoke.
  10. How to transport on Range Rover Sport

    Yeah in a pink Konigsegg
  11. Casing numbers on 1961 Cub.

    Sounds like these are just casting numbers and not matching case numbers. If line boring and other matching of cases has been carried out then I would expect to see after casting markings and not cast in markings. Complicated aint they these Cub devices!
  12. Cota 349 weird clutch (gearbox?) issue

    Some things to check, even the best of us make mistakes. Is the gearbox output sprocket secure? Engine dead and in any gear push the bike back and forth, does it make a similar clunk? If your bike didn’t do it before the strip then why is it doing it now? I know you want answers but that’s the question you need to be asking your mechanic. Hope it’s an easy remeady🙂
  13. Oset 20.0 racing hesitating and washing

    Have the throttle potentiometer checked, the tracks may be scored and this will inhibit a smooth power supply.
  14. BSA B40 No Spark

    Contact breakers could be stuck open or badly corroded so no earth path created. Ignition coil could have internal short. Wires may have corroded through. HT lead may be faulty, including the plug cap breaking down electrically. Can you not ask your Dad if he knows if it has electronic ignition, apologies if that’s no longer possible. How are you testing the HT spark, remove the plug cap, make sure you camp see wire in the end of the HT lead, hold this end about 2-3mm front a cylinder head fin, get someone to kick the engine over, there should be a nice bright blue flashseen between the lead and fin. Does this B40 have a ‘kill switch’ this could be in the off position or corroded up. Next check the wires to the ignition coil, if they feel hard and stiff they may not be acting as a wire anymore. Some trials bikes of that era were modified to run with a small battery, doing away with the heavy generator, so if that’s the case you will need a good 6 volt battery. Some B40’s and similar C15 models had the contact breakers in small distributors that were mounted into the crankcases, other later models had the contacts etc mounted in the side case beneath a round cover. With the contact breakers you need to establish that the shaft in the distributor goes round when cranking the engine. You need to ensure there is an operating gap between the fixed base contact and the pivoting part of the contact breaker assembly. Hold open the contacts and look at each contacts surface, clean with a piece of wet and dry rubbing down paper or a board type nail file, aim to produce a cleanish face to each contact. You can connect a torch bulb and two wires to the contacts to see if they work as an on and off switch, or use a voltmeter set to continuity. If all is well then the condenser may be faulty, actually a capacitor. With a duff condenser you can still get a spark but it will be very weak. There are some useful videos that show all of this on the net. The coil can be tested for continuity, but I’ll refer you to the demo videos for this, take me too long to explain. Hope this is helpful 🙂
  15. Tank and Exhaust Heat Shield Respray

    I used a white aerosol spray on my TY250, it’s was appliance white...washing machines etc. I usedetch prime first to give a good key and surface for the paint to adhere to. Obviously there was the preparation work removing previous scratches and rust. The end result matched the original Yamaha petrol tank perfectly. If you do your heat shield then you can save money, clear lacquer on the heat shield for a trials bike will make touching up scratches hard work, the shield will get scratched from boot contact and muddy trousers scuffing against it. If the nick is in the decals on the tank then that’s going to be at least £100 ish or more, the original decals were applied to the white tank and then lacquered over, that’s factory finish unless your tank has had previous paint work. As there are quite a few shades of white for cars a good paint shop should be easily able to match the colour shade. When I was selling the TY range the paint was virtually brilliant white when we opened up the cardboard transport boxes. As for lack of talent, practice on some old tank or metal sheet to get a feel for the work. Patience and attention to detail could see you producing an effective finish, check out Google and Youtube for pointers. £35 in materials and some sweat and effort will save you ££££’s🙂 Have you had a quote yet or is £200 your estimate?
  16. Zundapp Trials.

    👍
  17. How to transport on Range Rover Sport

    You might as well get a trailer, at least you’ll be using the tow ball for the purpose it was intended! As other have suggested you might be minted you could buy a three bike trailer and either offer to give others a lift with their bikes so they can then return their supercars back to original. I ask you where’s the street cred driving a Lambo or McLaren fitted with a tow bar, what ever next holidays in Lowestoft or some exotic East Coast Resort. I can hear the rattle of the doughnut sellers cart even now, such luxury!🎢🎳🎪🍩🍭🍿
  18. How to transport on Range Rover Sport

    Ah so, now all we’ve got do is watch out for the McLaren with a Trials bike lashed to it and hey presto your identity is exposed😳🤳
  19. How to transport on Range Rover Sport

    It’s easy, just leave the tailgate down and lash the bike to the hinges. You could of course add extra safety by utilising that ball on a stick as an extra lashing point. If you had Bull bars fitted you could easily tie the bike to that, at least you’ll be able keep an eye on the bike in transit as it’ll arrive before you wherever you go🙂
  20. Zundapp Trials.

    Palm killers, you knew when you were gripping too hard, thank goodness someone invented gloves! Those levers look to be quality items, possibly Madura?
  21. Chain

    Some say to go with a reasonabley priced branded chain and work on the fact that it will need changing a few times, depending on how often the chain gets used. If you have two decent chains put one that is cleaned and dried into an oil bath...this could be a biscuit tin with lid or similar and leave it to soak. What oil you use is down to personal choice, but EP80 or 90 may be deemed by some as too thick. Grease tends to penetrate when heated like the Linklife grease tins for chain but it’s messy and the grease acts like a magnet for grit and detritus. Engine oil could be a choice and it doesn’t need to be expensive oil either. The other chain will be on the bike, again personal choice with what lube you put on it. Spray lube goes sticky and is not really what you want for Trials or M/X or enduro, a light engine oil works but does fling off, gear oil applied with a paint brush is another option but whatever. Now when you bring the bike back after use all yo do is slip the chain off and clean it or place it in a tin of diesel and oil mix to soak overnight, lid preferable. Cleaning the bike, if you do every time or not, will be easier without the chain on. When you’ve done what cleaning and other maintenance is your normal routine you can get the other chain thats all clean and oiled. Lift it out of the oil and wipe excess oil off, alternatively the chain could just be hung over the oil tin to drip excess oil into it. I expect that you can now understand that in real terms you have extended the life of both chains, with the exception of chain link spring clips. Non O ring chains work best in terms of being narrower so no tyre chain interface or other clearance issues, standard chain is slightly lighter, doesn’t create extra frictional losses due to dry O rings....granted these will be tiny but do add up. You could even keep that other chain as a stand by in case of breakage, or just swap over chains if competing in longer events where time allows. I don’t recommend putting O ring chains into diesel. Most brand new chains when you get them are smeared with grease usually whiteish in colour, a good plan would be to wipe most of this off especially if you know you are going to ride in dusty going. A little pocket sized aerosol of WD40 or GT 85 or any other maintenance spray will be perfect to spray onto the chain during use to help wash off some of the dirt and lube the chain at the same time. Dry lube does not do the same job. Don’t forget to spray the tensioner pivot and slide as well🙂
  22. Which one would you buy?

    Ok so there are 2019 model trials bikes already available from some sources along with the 2018 ranges and very nice they all look to! But which one would you buy and why given that you had say £6000 burning a hole in your wallet? Answers please to include known issues good and bad together with maintenance ease or difficulty. I like the thought of lashing out on a four stroke, but then think that there’s more to wear out when compared to a two stroke. That other niggling worry also comes to mind and that is will the manufacturer chosen still be around in the near future? Lastly the old chestnut, how good is the dealer network and support? I’ve not put down my choice as this might create a target such as “oh he rides this such and such so it must be good”. 🙂🤔👍
  23. Zundapp Trials.

    Rickman do seem to make their bikes look just right, no modding needed. This looks as ‘right’ as the Puch engined Dalesman. The Zundapp ‘other side view🤗’ looks excellent and reminds me of the 70 and 80’s when development seemed to gather pace. Is that a CZ behind? Gustav Franke (apologies spell checker changed his surname to France, now corrected). On a personal opinion I would rate Gustav Franke’s as good as Sammy Miller both in the riding skills and engineering application. Than you for wetting my appetite even more 👍🙂 So when Villiers decided to do the dirty on a great many small to medium sized competition bike manufacturers and stop supplying their engines, I ask this question, why did the Zundapp engine range get overlooked? The Russians were quite happy to supply complete bikes into Asia and just engines to the TRX concern in the UK. I also understand that CZ did not like to be seen being so successful with their scrambles/ motocross machines, Eastern block trade embargo? Or other reason. I think even Greeves missed an opportunity with not marketing their own engine to other bike companies, quite how suitable that engine would be for Trials I’m not sure. I had a new kit form Sprite Trials 1967 with Villiers ‘latest’ 37A engine from Frank Hipkin not too shabby either, might have been the last of many around that time. I managed to blag an Alpha Stepha full circle crank assembly with polished knife edge connecting rod, but it didn’t plonk like it would with the original Villiers crank. Wonder where the many companies that used Villiers engines would be now if things had been different and Manganese Bronze Holdings hadn’t got involved or kept away from AMC and then Norton Villiers. 🤔
  24. Which one would you buy?

    More food for thought🤔, thanks oni nou.🙂
  25. Has anyone registered a Sherco in California?

    Dooh silly me 🙄
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