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hanson racing on Facebook sold one on their ebay shop UK for around £450.00.

I’m not sure you will get a Mont to feel like a Beta. The injection vs carb response is very noticeable. Mapping would be the way to do it, getting hold of a HRC (fully programmable) throttle body may be impossible though. But, it has been done before with various header pipe set ups, there were some posts on here a few years ago. It would be worth a read. I think the standard 250 and 260 header is 26mm and the 301 is about 30mm. There should be plenty of standard 250/260’s available second hand fairly cheap. The 250 pipes did change around 2009 they are slightly longer to accommodate the newer style silencers. Aftermarket headers are about 28mm. Getting the right gasket to fit the combinations might be tricky.

There are an assortment of restrictors available to detune the 4RT all the way down to ~125cc performance ( learner license ). one plate goes into the intake and 3 are available for the exhaust including a different tailpiece that can be riveted on the tail end of the muffler. ... if you really want to detune one it's not hard, the fuel injection will even sort itself for everything except idle screw setting.

Worth checking your throttle tube again to see if it really is the slow version as the black anodized aluminium (aluminum) versions have no cam/ramp and dia should be only slightly larger than your handlebars. An extra carb slide return spring will help avoiding whisky throttle, but at the expense of sensitive throttle adjustments. If you have a coloured S3 cyl head fitted then low compression insert available. Believe the 2012 was the first year of the external stator sensor so adjusting stator plate wont help retard the timing. Ultimately no substitution for time on the pegs. Rick Agans has a wealth of Sherco experience so try to reach out to him.

If you want less performance to soften response you need a wider bore pipe not a smaller one , this decreases back pressure and therefore lessen low end torque that makes for instant action off the bottom. Its complicated on a four stroke motor. I would recommend you read up on it before trying any amateur tuning tweeks. Honda 4rt with a BETA 4t motor grafted in? Send a message to BANYERES perhaps he may have something to help you get what you want.

Has anyone tried a 260 head pipe on a 300. It looks a good bit smaller and I wonder if it would soften the response. I would like my 300 4RT to run more like a Beta 300.

Didn't want to hunt the correct spark plug so I ordered one on Amazon, should receive it tomorrow. In the meantime I sent the PWK carb back and plan to buy one made by Polini (don't know if you guys know the brand). It's an italian brand that makes big bore kits for 2 strokes, exhausts, variators, automatic clutches for scooters etc. - I already fitted one of their PWK carbs on a Beta Rev and they're obviously much better than the generic chinese clones.

Pure theory dictates you should use the correct spark plug, wire and cap 👍 So did that fix it? ...short plug in a deep hole in a 2-stroke might well run like a plug that is 12 ranges too cold depending on what wrong plug was installed.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. We were leaning towards a 200 after reading the comments, but I ended up getting a 2014 GasGas TxtPro 250 on a trade deal for a motocross bike I just finished building. She's been able to start it without too much hassle so far. It definitely kicks over easier than my Raga 300. If repeated starting becomes a problem, we'll toss on a low compression head insert and see if that makes things easier 👍

Discovered that heat output is rev's related! If i'm pottering around doing trials type riding the grips are just nice and warm, however, yesterday i did a big long climb up boggy ground. I was in 3rd, wide open for a good 5 maybe 10 mins, had to turn the grips off about 3/4 way through, thought my hands were going to melt. Glad i used the headlight switch, means i can flick on/off with my thumb without having to move hand off the bars.

It seems like you could use lighter springs with more preload to attain the same pressure when clutch is engaged. Initial force to move would be the same but would increase less with lever travel. Does the 260 use the same springs as the 300? I see the springs but not the plate. Are they still available? https://japan.webike.net/products/24020409.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqgYESkjfxhn34zme3dmDSwGPvYs9Hpdu39pFhoKpODKapkK5Nt Could this be the same. https://jbanyeres.com/product/special-clutch-springs-for-montesa-cota-4rt-and-4-ride-measuring-281mm/

Yeah, that's what I thought. Weird they used a short spark plug, makes no sense. I think I'll try to make it run with the stock Amal, if possible, with a loooong transparent hose carrying the premix to the bowl and with the end vented to atmosphere... so I can rule the carb out. But as I said, I'm afraid it's an electrical issue.

That could cause hard starting (and poor running in general). But probably not bogging after 1 – 5 minutes.

Thanks! I was a guitar builder and my customers base was always in the US, so I had time to practice 😂 I noticed the spark plugs fitted on the head have a SHORT threaded portion... I'd say 12mm or so, while in pure theory they should be the long version. Could it be the cause of the problem? I doubt it, but you never know.

The hard starting may or may not be related to the bogging. When I'm trying to find thermal problems with electrical components, I use a heat gun https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_gun and/or freeze spray https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freeze_spray Freeze spray is fairly expensive. A lower-cost alternative is a compressed air duster (like for computer keyboards) turned upside down. BTW, I must complement your English, it's very good!

I checked the impedance of both my Motoplat stators and it's about 32ohm (31.8). I'm having this weird issue... bike hard to start, then starts, works for a short period (1-5 minutes) and then starts bogging. It's not fuel-related as there's still premix in the bowl when it dies.

Hi Sam do you still have the Fantics ?

I got my Majesty to steer better by moving the bottom clamps and rewelding :

How lucky we are to have the internet and people who know how to use it. konrad is the man for the job every time. Hope it does the job.

Searching Motoplat 9635406, I found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255086002289

I live in uk it’s a gas gas 250 number on engine is 327 and motor plat cdi 9635406 I believe it’s a 93 model could I put a different cdi unit on this or have I got to use the same one

@nhuskys Brilliant. Thanks , that's what I have been waiting for.

I enlarged the steering stem hole in a spare top triple clamp and made an eccentric to fit in the hole to move the top triple clamp forwards slightly. I did not aim for parallel. I can't remember the concentric dimension for the eccentric piece offhand but there is still some angular offset. From memory, the goal was to move the front wheel axle rearwards by 5mm. To get the fork tube holes to line up again, I twisted the bottom triple clamp then twisted the upper triple clamp. What I wanted was for my KT250 to steer like a TY250 and it now does exactly that.

Ah OK. I guess it's a bit different here where there are lots of derelict TY250s lying around. Plenty of TY250 parts in the US as well.