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Interesting video. The only thing I can see is the seal on the piston. There's something strange on my AJP. There's 2 holes location. But on one of them, I can't see any hole. I tried with guitar string and it's like there's no hole. I will check again tomorrow. Thanks!

I bought a master and a hose on Amazon for little less than $50. It took something like 30 min to install and bleed with a syringe and it work very well. I really can't see why the AJP is not working!

I don't think it's in anyone's best interests for me to provide more information than what's already on my website. It assumes a basic knowledge of electronics that is a prerequisite for making modifications to the bike. But I really want to discourage anyone from using a DC/DC converter in that manner! A DC/DC converter could potentially source sufficient voltage/current to damage the controller if it's improperly wired, improperly adjusted or just plain fails. Stick with the potentiometer shown an the end of the Regen Experiments page: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments#h.7lz2uhjj7x3c The 2023 bike clearly has some wiring differences to my 2021 model that you will have to determine for yourself.

I raised this as one of my points on this other thread but it was too many questions at once, and most of it has fallen by the wayside now anyway. So I thought I would address this one question again. My aim is to achieve a little bit of engine braking with the throttle closed, similar to a petrol bike. The Mecatecno I tried had this. Having studied the information on konrad's website, I'm proposing to use the microswitch in the Domino throttle to feed about 1 volt into the PRB connector. I'll use the PRB/FRB Y-piece to actually make the connection at that end, meaning of course that the FRB won't work, but that doesn't matter. To get the 1 volt, I'm hoping to pick up 5 volts from the feed to the throttle (or maybe the lighting DC/DC converter) and use a converter like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DK6WN63/ref=pe_4074371_1338459331_em_1p_1_lm. Does that make sense, konrad? If that's all OK, my only issue now is to understand the wiring colours. According to konrad's website, the main wires from the throttle are blue, white and black but I've got a connector marked T1 going into the throttle connector that has red, black and blue. The standard (non-EM) version of the throttle has blue, white and black, and the micro-switch wires are both green. However I've got a connector marked T2 that has white, brown and yellow. If I ever manage to sort out the conundrum above, I also intend to add an on/off switch on the handlebars to switch the engine braking on and off. Any thoughts?

Thanks for that video. I’m having the exact problem with my brake. Very helpful video.

@ stou yeah mmmm try this https://youtu.be/tB_bFTSqaBk?si=zyf8QOXMzubzuNpk

The hose is not blocked but the master seem to do nothing when I pump it. I removed everything from the master and cleaned everything and I can't see why it doen't work. I even replaced the piston and seal, I have another one new. The hole on the buttom of the master is clean and there's no leak from the master or the caliper. It's the first time I see something like that. We have our first trial of the season sunday, so I ordered a cheap chinesse master and a hose from Amazon. I'll see if I can do something with that before sunday

Sorry to hijack... I'm trying to resurrect an old Explorer and would need help from somebody with good knowledge about the Motoplat magnet/coil...

When you remove the brake master reservoir cap and force the disc pads full width apart did that not force fluid back into the reservoir? If not then you found a problem.

Undo the lock nut on the lever with a 10mm spanner and unscrew the adjuster screw to allow the master cylinder piston to touch the circlip and thus open the circuit to the reservoir. if that does not work you have a blockage somewhere.

I did the syringe trick to fill the front brake hose and then put the hose on the front master. But when I push on the syringe nothing happen, it's rock solid. Do I need to pull the front brake lever to open it?

The jerkiness on the clutch dates back to when I had petrol bikes. I've never used the clutch on my EM. Given the complexity of access to the clutch, I think I'll just go for some extended practice before diving into the alignment. Those Ergo levers look very interesting. I currently use Apico short levers but could certainly live with something shorter. I might give them a go for both clutch and brake.

Looking at getting a 93 Aprilia 280R Climber. Are there any flywheel weights available or will I need to machine something? How is the parts availability? I had a 92 and liked it a lot!

Hey Konrad, thanks for the link. I checked a couple of others and it was longer. I also have a message into TRS (Rising Sun Imports) and hopefully he will have one in inventory. I thought about the coil binding possibility but I came to the same conclusion as you. I don't remember offhand how long the spacers is total or how much longer but it wasn't radical. When I get home I will take a pic.

One clean way to remove a pressed on inner bearing race is to machine it paper thin in one area with a carbide end mill. At that point it will crack and slide right off. Careful work with a hand grinder could probably produce a similar result.

Interesting problem. The first search result for the GG P/N says it ships in 2-5 business days: https://www.ocpoemparts.com/oemparts/p/gasgas/bt20220gg-cka-1/cartridge I find it difficult to imagine a guy who's done 10k forks over-tightened it. How much longer did you make the preload spacer? But even if the spring went into coilbind, I can't see that breaking the damper rod. Can you post a high-resolution photo of the break?

TY, DT, GT MX80's all have very similar parts, so if you can find a wreckers etc they might have parts for one or all.

I have a 2021 300 One RE and the other day I decided to check the oil level in my forks. Did the spring side no issue. When I pulled apart the damper side I discovered that the cartridge rod was snapped off right below the cap. I seem to vaguely rmember hearing a pop a couple of days earlier while riding and that it was steering weird, thus my wanting to check the level. Has anyone else have this problem? Did I over-tighten it? I have worked on well over 10,000 forks in my life without doing anything like that but anything is possible I guess. The only other variable is that I added a longer preload spacer on the other fork because it still sagged when cranked in all the way. But I have been riding it with the new spacer for months. Lastly, anyone happen to have a internal damper for late model aluminum Tech forks laying around? I have calls in to TRS and also inquiring with Gas Gas and Vertigo dealers to see who has what and prices. Gas Gas version in only $160 but seems like it might take a long time to get. I would be happy with a used one.

Speak with Central Wheels https://central-wheel.co.uk/ Great Bikes and such a good learning machine for young ones. Kev

Hi all, Just acquired a TY80 for my grand kids to use - brilliant bike and already had lots of fun! Rear wheel is damaged and I need a new rim and spokes - any suggestions on how to find welcome!

Yes, they are good quality, I use them on all my trials bikes along with the Domino levers.

Hi im recommissioning a1980 Beamish. The techomoto throttle has quite some wear and I would like to replace. Are the new Domino throttles a decent replacement? thanks Kev

Your issues with the clutch may not be completely of your making. Clutch fiber plates take some time to break in. You can speed the process (and give the clutch a longer life) by perfectly aligning the plates: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/clutch#h.twzu1hiimf5e You could also experiment with different clutch fluids. Finally, my wife tried one of these levers on her Dragonfly: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/trialsolutions-ergo-lever.html It worked so well, I bought one for my EM.

EM Connect can be retrofitted to a 2023, but without the new display. However it is pretty uneconomic: £500 plus sending the bike back to Inch Perfect which is at the other end of the country. So that option is out. I can only find one OPTION connector, which is being used for TKO. Inch Perfect confirmed that. My understanding of electrickery stops at Ohm's Law. I did read up on voltage dividers and it pretty much puddled my brain when it came to devising a practical application. If I tried to do this I think it would probably go horribly wrong. It would also need a A/B handlebar switch to swap between normal maps and soft maps but I can't find such a thing. They are all on/off or horn-type buttons. Meanwhile your Regen Experiments page (https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments) has given me an idea for getting a bit of throttle-off engine braking. I'm going to be offline for a few days but will return to the subject and may try to consult you again on that.