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Heated gloves might consume less power. 13W each 26 total and you can get a controller to adjust heat better. example: gloves https://www.gerbing.com/collections/12v-heated-gloves/products/gerbing-12v-heated-glove-liners?variant=45244436054307 controller https://www.gerbing.com/collections/heated-motorcycle-plugs-and-temperature-controllers/products/gerbing-12v-single-zone-temperature-controller-knobbed?variant=44879387394339
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Roughly the same power as your horn. 🤓 Don't use the horn at the same time as your heated grips and there should be no issue.
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Has anyone fitted heated grips to a 4ride (or a 4RT assuming they are the same) ? Splat shop do some sticky back heated elements that you then slip normal grips over the top, it says they consume 36W, will my 4 ride have enough power to drive them? And where am i best tapping into the wiring loom to take the feed?
- Yesterday
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Inch Perfect have a pre-order email out today. There are 125 250 and 300cc versions. Price is TBA. https://beta-uk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=21684
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Thanks for posting that alternative. About time. Electric and RHS starters will make me consider Beta again. I've had two and consider the starting dumb. Actually- why was the lever 3" too short? Actually my Beta dirtbike (ok so 3 Betas) has Electric. A couple of kilos means Im not puffing every section before I start riding my TRS which is an advantage over my Betas and GGs. For the Club rider this is a real advantage. Good on Beta.
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Throttle pulley size is a personal preference thing, like bar position, lever position etc. I use the slow twistgrip on my 250 MAR and throttle control is exactly how I like it.
- 1 reply
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- Last week
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To me, the best thing about the solid separator/electrolyte is that it brings a significant safety improvement. It's much less prone to thermal runaway, and therefore reduces the risk of fire.
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ChrisCH started following Solid state batteries?
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Sorry if this is the wrong place for this - logically to me it belongs in EM. The only fault I can find with the latest EM bikes is that they are a bit heavier than the ICE alternative. With solid state batteries soon to be a feature of the light car market I wonder if this will be the next development for electric trials bikes? The downside is going to be cost andalready the EM is more expensive than a Montesa or similar, but to be fair not by much. Anyway some news on this front in my feed propted me to look at this road bike development: https://www.ducati.com/ww/en/news/ducati-s-electric-research-continues-with-the-v21l-prototype-and-solid-state-batteries I guess this one will not be cheap 🤣
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I saw some made from stainless steel last weekend. A friend had a few custom buckles for trials helmets made locally. While it sounds like a good idea, non-OEM helmet parts or modifications will render a helmet non-compliant in a legal sense.
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ERW started following Slow or Fast Throttle for MAR?
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Need a new throttle assembly, anyone experiment with the Domino fast vs. slow on an OSSA MAR 250?
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Just an update, all working and starting fine after new coil pack and condenser 👍🏻 thanks all
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Airoh helmets STILL have buckles that rust through. I have been investigating stainless steel buckles for 20mm webbing straps, but can only find them for 25mm webbing straps. Anyone found a source of stainless steel buckles for 20mm straps?
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In the US you have Hogans, Alex Snoop, Keith Lynas, Vintco
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Go to www.todotrial.com and change the language at the top right of the page all the info there.
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Some questions come to mind: - Will they offer the same engine capacities? - How easy is it to access the carb? - Where is the e-start battery located? - Does the starter have an over running clutch or solenoid? - How much weight does e-start add? - Did they change the kickstand mount?
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Well, at least they put the kickstarter on the "normal" side. Wonder if that is going to annoy long-time Beta purists? But the cylinder reeds are a compromise so they could put the e-start motor where it is.
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Yes, points open/points closed, it wouldn't work if it didn't. I have to make a few assumptions.... Are you sure you know how a magneto works ? Where are you showing this continuity ? And are you using an ohmeter ?
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https://www.infotrialstorico.it/2025/09/20/beta-sincro-2026-galleria-fotografica-e-comunicato-con-info-tecniche/
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Phil, it’s very easy to replace a head gasket/o-rings. I did it for the first time and it only took about 15 minutes and I’m no mechanic. Simply unbolt the head, lift it off, clean the surfaces, place new gasket/o-rings on then bolt it back together, tightening the bolts in a criss cross pattern, little by little, until the torque requirement so you don’t bend/warp the head. I believe your bike is air cooled so you don’t need to worry about draining the coolant. I had a friend in high school years ago, who had no experience mechanically, and he replaced his head gaskets on a TY 250 with no internet or YouTube to help. It’s very straightforward. You can do it yourself for sure. Good luck!
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Thanks, Woody. I'm in the US, so I'll have to see if In Motion can ship to me. I will search for a US source as well. We have a rather "fluid" tariff situation and now the "de minimus" exemption has been rescinded which means small shipments (like a sprocket and a nut) go through the same process as a cargo container of goods. If worse comes to worse, I can machine a special nut as I'm fortunate to have a nice machine shop. Finding a sprocket will still be a challenge as I have not had experience with machining internal splines... may have to learn. Again appreciate your knowledge and generosity to share it.
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The retaining nut is almost as big as a 10 tooth sprocket which means the chain rides up over the points of the nut when it is flush against the sprocket. To use a 10 tooth there is a nut with a shoulder on the inside to give clearance to the chain, you need to use this nut Depends where you live, in the UK, In Motion have all you need I run a dished rear sprocket on my MAR which only comes in 44 tooth size, this works well with the 10 tooth front
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