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Got a complete set of spokes if needed................

Or you could wire the lights to run dead loss off a lithium battery and charge it from a wall outlet when you are not riding.

Wait a minute that's the frame number of my bike too what's going on is that a different number not chassis number dgm 19461 om

At the moment just the ignition is wired, however I want to wire in lights for road use. Found a wiring diagram for a Montesa with a similar setup. So it looks like: Black - Ignition Pink – Brake Lights Green – Horn Yellow – Lights.

I certainly still have it. I will email link (and clean out my inbox)

Hey Mark, looks like your inbox may be full, can you send over a link if you still have it available? sclay115 @ gmail.com Thanks!

How close is this to what you have? http://ossa.2y.net/ossa/onlinemanuals/ossa5speedmanual/Page124.jpg

Hi, Anyone have a wiring diagram for TR77? Looking for information on the magneto wires, I have 4: Black - Ignition Yellow - ? Green - ? Pink - ? I am assuming one is for the horn, one for lights and one for brake light. Carl.

No, the whole thing rides to low to the ground.

When my c15 had a modified original frame it had a triumph cub hub

I don't remember all of the details but I put a Bultaco Alpina rear wheel on a 1965? C15. I probably had to make wheel spacers but don't remember having to do anything else to make it fit. I also installed the Alpina forks and front wheel. As I recall, the rear Alpina brake worked well but the front was terrible. There was not a lot of forethought but the bike turned quite well.

Transmission and wet clutch oil actually, since it is not a 4-cycle engine. You are looking for a lubricant (oil) that is suited to the operating temperature you are likely to be running in. I use all season hydraulic excavator oil which is ISO46 why because I buy it in 5 gallon pails and it works as good in a motorcycle transmission as it does in a farm tractor transmission or excavator that is full of gears and wet clutches. More important is that you keep the oil clean and free of water, so change it frequently which is going to happen a lot more frequently if you are buying it at 7$ per litre and not 20$ per litre. Viscosity charts will show you where !SO46 fits relative to other lubricants. What you don't need in a manual transmission and wet clutch is multi-grade 4-stroke engine oil with friction modifiers.

Hi I found a rolling chassis of Beta zero 260 and I'm looking for the engine, or enough parts to put it together. Transmission, cylinder etc etc, Let me know what you have.... Thanks

Is there a specefic viscosity I have to use for the engine oil?

Some days nothing seems to want to work good

Easy to cook a rear brake by dragging it against the engine power, front brake not so much if you don't have pavement. Last time I had a trials bike front brake steaming hot on trials terrain was never.

The first time I used the steam cleaning trick was with the bike running on a stand while strapped to the trailer. It was the rear, and I just applied brake pressure while the wheel was turning. I could easily monitor the rotor temperature with an IR thermometer (which is totally unnecessary). Get the rotor so hot you can smell the pads cooking. More than one application may be helpful.

Yes it is an option, but The complete set of spokes and nipples costs me more than the rear wheel that i found.

P.s. dont be shy, heat them up and douse them good!

You just ride around a few minutes with that brake locked on almost skidding. Almost ends up like a steam clean. First time I ever say it done was Tommi Avala came to do a trials school/demo. Pulled a new bike out of a crate and FIXED the brakes in a few minutes.

Blow torch or do you do this on pavement?

You could just replace the spokes? Wouldn't be surprised if the 4rt spokes are a direct fit.

This is a Jotagas rear wheel with a later model rear caliper in the 'wrong' bike. It just took a load of measurements, home made spacers, a touch of filing and it lined up nicely. The front forks and clamps are 40mm Marzocchi from a Gas Gas. Stuff will generally fit but it takes a bit of searching for the measured part you think will fit, such as alternative bearings and spacers.

Trials compatible rear hub/sprocket assembly for standard (ie engine mountings not offset) '64 BSA C15 road going frame. Anyone got any suggestions?