Suzuki/Beamish

I have a number of spares for sale on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233869786458

Hi all I have got myself a Mk1 Beamish in silver and red to relive my yooff ! Can anyone confirm the point of kickstart engagement, the lever looks to be in the correct position mounted on the engine, but does not engage until it is approx horizontal when kicking. It’s so long since I had mine that I don’t know if this is normal or if the internals need looking at. Thanks for any replies

Can anyone advise the best gearbox oil/fluid for the RL250 Beamish? I've seen modern 80W transmission oil recommended, as well as ATF. If ATF, what specification, Dexron 3, or something more advanced? Thanks in advance.

I started riding trials on this Suzuki in 2015 . The fellow I bought It from converted it from the pictured ts185.

Hi, I have just acquired a 1968 Bearcat which is the ideal starting point to build a Gaunt replica! Being the latest model of the Bearcat it has the B100 frame with the TC120 dual range motor it’s perfect for the job! But I have a number of questions... Forks, These should be from the Invader 200 are they still 30mm? And looking at photos they must be a bit longer if so how much? If I can’t find any Invader forks I’ll find something suitable that looks right While we are at the front did Peter alter the head angle? Hubs These look to be smaller than the B100 or Bearcat hubs, possibly A100 or A50? Swinging Arm I know it’s about an inch longer but …

In my part of the world, there are no Whitlock frames or Beamish Suzukis to be had. My dentist who happens to be the best dentist I have ever seen, has commisioned me to build a custom Suzuki special. Here's what I've come up with so far. I will be finishing up the front skid plate bracket arrangement, doing footpeg mounts in the proper location and side panels, before stripping it down to finish all the welding, and paint it polish it etc. I plan to paint the frame silver, and do a two tone paint job on the tank, in the original pattern. Considering a nice burgundy metallic on silver for the tank, with polished alloy side panels. I will be soda blasting the entire eng…

has anyone any more pics of the silver engine RL250Y with the yellow and black seat as on the later black engine mods. which followed the RL250A that was in red / black ?

In need of a new Coil. the old one as broke were the HT lead goes in and being a captive lead its new coil time. I have found these more modern type where I can replace the HT lead if needed, but not sure on where the wires go on them? anyone know cheers

Thought I would treat myself seeing as my Swingarm are needs new bushes and a re-chrome. so I asked AJG twinshock Specials in the Netherlands to build me one. It arrived Monday, really well packaged and came with everything you need. weighs in at just 1.6kg, stock is over 4.6kg, also about an inch longer. Really pleased with it, should be on the bike sometime this week when I get time.

Hi, I recently bought a 1975 Suzuki RL250. It ran but not well. I found that the main jet was plugged. After carefully cleaning it out and blowing it dry with compressed air, I reassembled the carb, gassed it up and it started easily. It runs for a while but looses power in a couple minutes and then stalls. it will not restart until it cools down. Any suggestions as to how to adjust the carb? It has a 130 main jet. I'm running modern synthetic oil at 40:1.

Picked up a RL250 a bit back for a future project and wondering if it would benefit from a longer header pipe? It runs very smoothly but I like a rorty engine that jumps with a slight twist of the throttle,I know that's contrary to common Trials theory but I have a SWM to ride when I need traction in adverse conditions. I had a 240 Fantic and never felt like it was too Zappy and find that type of power fun. The Zook seems to be soft down low then comes on in the mid range. Haven't had time to check the timing or compression(Feels good to kick through) It looks like every other trials bike has a longer header pipe than the Suzuki's short U-turn.

Hi, just a quick question about the base gasket thickness. I have recently had my bike rebored to first oversize. I now need a new base gasket so I can refit it. I have searched through the forum but have not found the definitive answer to the standard thickness of this. It is still a 250 and I won't be changing it back to 325 so it would be great to know what thickness to get. Thanks in advance

Hello ! What about steering angles of MKII and MKIII frames ? I mainly would like to know if MKIII makes you feel front wheel "lighter" ? Though i lowered and moved backward footpegs, i find my MKII much less handy than my 175 TY... Thanks for sharing your opinions ! Jean-Pierre

Hello, Im restoring a silver engine rl250 for me brother in law. It's a silver engine 74? He bought a lighting kit for it but the kit did not have a stator. Will a ts250 stator winding work with the rl250? How about coils to run the cdi? Are those the same as the ts250? regards, redbug2

I was looking for some help please.... Im rebuilding a 1981 Black engine 250 Beamish Suzuki and would like to know what size rear shocks ( how long in cm or inches please ) are been fitted to your bikes and which spark plugs seem to work best ? Thanks for any feed back.

Hi everyone I'm new to the site and I just rescued a 1974 RL 250 from a old motorcycle wrecking yard here in Washington state. A little back story the very first dirt bike I bought from a dealer ship was a 1974 RL 250 Exacta that the owner of the Suzuki dealership turned it into a enduro for enduro racing the things he changed were the Tank to a TM tank and put a TM seat on it and he also Put Knobby tires instead of the trials tires. It was a great bike i could do anything and go anywhere on that bike I will try to up load some photos of my old RL 250. anyway back to the wrecking yard rescue I happened into this wrecking yard looking for parts for my buddy that is buil…

As I'm getting older, I'm having more trouble working the clutch lever with one finger on my stock 75 RL250. I took two springs out of the clutch, added a new cable, and this helped for a couple of years but now having trouble again. Anyone found a mod that works? Maybe extending the length of the arm inside the cover (not much room in there). or Has anyone tried a clutch cover off of a TM250? This would be more like a Beamish.

I have been look on Gasket guru for a new cylinder base gasket for my Black engine 250 which is the standard thickness gasket please

Anyone know where i could get a stator cover for a black engine 325

Anybody have any advise. The Beamish Club manual section says there is a mistake on Parts List 5, circlip 36 should go between 38 and 39. But part 36 looks like it is a spring clip that fits in a location in the shaft to stop 35 gear from moving side ways on the shaft. The gearbox that I have has part 38 between 35 and 36, anybody know which is right? Any advise welcome. Mike