Suzuki/Beamish

As this is the next running maintainence job I need to do (to sort a slow oil leak) I am wondering if anyone who had done one before can shed light on the following: 1) I understand that it must be done with the selector shaft removed as you can not prise it out and replace the new one over the selector shaft 2) In order to withdrawal the selector shaft, I believe the clutch basket needs to come off? Is this splined or tapered and is it easy to get off, or like the montesa, a real pig that needs a heavy duty puller? 3) When reassembling is their any line up marks that need to be paid attention to to ensure all gears select OK thanks Rob

when I’m riding the stand keeps coming down, think I’m catching it with my heel? Does anyone else have a problem?

Following 12 months of disappointment of buying what ended up being a significantly bodged Montesa 348 off of ebay and having 4 out of 6 comps as DNF, the Mont is now stripped and having a rebuild. To keep riding I am buying another bike and a very kind owner at the club allowed me to try his Beamish this weekend (try before you buy......) I absolutely loved the bike and the fact that it has finished every comp in the last year and was a dream to start, we have agreed the price (plus the fact that I smacked the rear brake pedal in the very last section on a rock and bent it made me compelled to buy it!) The bike was almost faultless but I did notice (and the owner confi…

Do you find your RL325 a bit of a handful at low speeds? There are a few ways you can calm it down. 1. There is a hole in the barrel just above the exhaust port that get clogged with carbon. You can feel it in the top of the exhaust outlet as a channel, the hole is only about 2mm but if this is cleaned out it will make quite a difference at low speeds, that is what it is there for. There is no hole on the RL250. 2. The standard ignition system on the beamish is analogue and linear, you can get a mapped digital ignition that calms it down at low speeds but still give you all the power when you open the throttle. 3. You can fit a thicker head gasket to lower the co…

The clutch on my beamish sticks when started from cold, I had another beamish years ago and that did the same (both silver engine Beamish’s) they work fine once warmed up I’ve tried all types of oil without success, is this the norm?

Anyone know if you can get a new kickstart or if a kickstart of another bike will fit a 1973 Beamish this isnt my bike and i'm not sure the beamish models were out in 73 so it would be useful if someone could confirm as well, the owner bought it in a box and only has details from the seller. thanks

Hi Guys, I've just bought an RL250. Its 1975 i think and in the Heron Suzuki colours, and im very pleased with it. However, the front brake is appalling, I've cleaned up the shoes with emery paper, and de-greased and dremaled the drum with a wire brush. But its still really bad. can i get a new liner for the hub? any suggestions? The ball bearing is missing out of the kick start, not unusual im sure, what would be the best way forward for this? I suppose the answer may be replace the bearing, but I'm thinking the kick start will be so worn It will just fall out. thanks in advance for you help Guys

I have red that some parts are in short supply! What parts are we looking at?

Hello , I have a Beamish 250 {silver engine, aprox. 1976} .The Front forks are too soft , {a lot of sag & bottom out easy}. I am 82kg so may be bit heavier than average but i still dont think they are correct The fork springs are full length with no spacer under the cap , I have seen a parts book for a RL250 which shows a shorter spring with a spacer about 100-125mm long at the top under the cap. Does anybody know the correct lengths for the spring and spacer so that i can try and find the correct parts ? Alternatively could anybody recommend differant springs to use or a supplier to ask ? thanks dave

Hi everyone, happy new year! I have just taken the cylinder head off my 325 and it has a bit of side scoring to the piston, the bore looks ok. Would it be better to just put new rings on it or rebore it? If it had had a rebore previous would there be any markings on the piston? as there is nothing showing? Inside the piston it just says "S made in japan" and "ART" and what looks like a Y with a line over it (I thought this was a + at first) under that there is a number 1. The engine ran well with a bit of smoke before I took it apart. If it needs a rebore what pistons are avaiable. Thanks

Is it me, or is there lots of Beamishs turning up just lately?

Can anyone with a black engine Beamish please tell me the size of the pilot jet they are running in both the 250 and the 325? The manual suggests that the 325 should have a pilot jet of 20 and the 250 a pilot jet of 27.5 - that doesn't make any sense to me if the larger number denotes a larger jet - would you have the smaller jet in the larger engine? I have a 250 and have just stripped the carb, the jet number is too faint to read. I also have a 325 that was originally a 250 and that has a 20 pilot jet and it is not running correstly. I would also like to know the needle clup position as counted down from the top of the needle. A concensus of what people are act…

Could somebody confirm something for me please. A chap told me something about a Beamish 250cc barrel having a sleeve that could be pushed out to enable it to take a 325cc piston. The way I understood it was the sleeve came out and the bigger piston went in, not a re sleeve as in you need to take a smaller sleeve completely out and fit a larger one. Cheers for any replies.

What's the best oil for a 250 beamish? Is ATF ok?

I read somewhere that someone produced some larger serrated footpegs for the RL250/325 Beamish......Does anyone know where I can find some please? The O/E ones are small and very slippery, as my bruised leg will testify

I have a suzuki front end that I am going to put on my Majesty Yam, I was told that it was a beamish front end but I think it is probably an earlier RL front end as there are no air valves on forks, can anyone confirm this and also, how are they rated as standard and does anyone have any tips or mods for setting forks up to work as well as possible. Thanks

Hi All - I read on here that rear shocks should be 340mm on a Beamish - however i have found a decent second hand pair of 360mm betors, will this be detrimental to the handling? what are teh consequences of longer shocks? many thanks

Has anyone got a spacer for the non brake side for front wheel or can anyone make one from dimensions of their own, I have either lost mine or didn't realise I had not received it when I bought the suzuki front end. Also has anyone machined off the normal handlebar (i.e. tiller type position) and put clamps on in a more modern position ?

How good was the Suzuki beamish in its day, did they have any major successes? What where they like as a clubman

Hi all, i have a 1981 black engine model and am upgrading it a bit, new shocks, footrests, chain and sprockets etc. I want to get rid of the original 'Cow horn' bars. They have a massive rise on them, my question is what sort of rise should i go for on some renthals. I am tall at 6,3... any advice greatfully accepted and see you at fort william on Friday if you are there!! Dan