dadof2

249 said assemble, not make from raw materials. Methods and definition of batch production are so variable unless you have actually seen what what is done, discussion is bound to be mostly generalisation and speculation. What Honda did (Japan late 1970s & 1980s) was to set up their production lines so they could make a range of products in small batches. Sometimes the line would run for just one shift and make say 90 CX 500 engines, it then may spend the next week making 600 CB 900 engines and so on. The workers on the line were specialists in only a few assembly operations, but they were retrained and moved periodically so they did not get bored.

Thought I would come back to this. Firstly I accept that trials is pretty cheap and in no way is it my intention to be overly critical of organising clubs. What prompted me to write the post was a local trial being advertised with a £20 entry fee.I can remember when the entry fee for that trial was £2. I was pleased to see the club got a decent entry but I think it would still only be about 50 or 60% of the number of riders they would get when the fee was £2. At the time I was earning £4.08 per hour, a fair but not exceptional rate for a welder. I now see comparable welders jobs being advertised between £8 and £11 per hour. IE the entry fee has gone from under 1/2 the hourly rate to about double it. Inflation+ rises have an insidious effect that goes barely noticed. I know of quite a number of riders staying away from MX, Karting and Trials and they say costs including entry fees are a key factor. I suspect disposable income in the 16 to 25 year old age range is possibly at an all time low. Regarding me and the other "greens" paying £10 to be a TC supporter, yes I really should get round to paying. I spend £80 (compulsory, £40 (compulsory) & £25 (suggested not compulsory) on other forums to do with my business. The big difference on these forums is you get accurate advice and on 2 of them insults are completely unknown. There is the odd bit of witty sarcasm on the £40 forum. Until about a year ago I used to spend about £40 on another forum but gave up my membership when the content started to drift away from the era I was interested in. Some other members were apparently of the same view and have started their own free forum.

I am pretty certain that initially Vertigo were using Kokusan EFI same as the Ossa, however since the intitial development of Vertigo, Kokusan has been bought by Mahle and Kokusans website no longer lists anything. Skynam make some parts and buy in some parts. Exactly what is now fitted to Vertigo is anyones guess.

2 of my friends have 250 4T evos and like them very much, I think they are 2010 and 2013 models. Another had a 2012 300. he went well on it but he sold it and went for a lighter 250 2T. On a 2009 that has been stood for a couple of years I would be wary of corrosion in coolant system, (some 2T Betas suffer bad corrosion in water pump). Also if it has been well power washed then parked it could have corrosion in most of chassis bearings.

Slightly off film topic here with this post but maybe worth pointing out. People often think the higher MP the better the camera but that is far from the case. Lens size and quality and sensor areas are also crucial.

Havoline Dexron VI (6) is a slightly more advance oil than Elf HT 740 but designed with very similar aims. Dexron is a General Motors auto transmission oil specification. Dexron IV seems to have been designed with a very wide vehicle compatibility range so it should avid the problems (like dissolving motorcycle clutch lining bonding) that you can get with other synthetics and ATFs.

https://uk.motorstv.com/get-motors-tv It used to be on here but I have not looked recently.

Sammy Miller motorcycle museum (brilliant) and National motor museum can both be covered in a days drive south of London. You will also pass through the New Forest. I am guessing you know Sammy's history. Its the late 1990s since I visited and was fortunate enough to have quite a lengthy chat with Sammy whilst he worked on a bike.

Unfortunately I can't help you with your enquiry. Would any other forum members like to post if they feel they have need for a reasonable cost service to make or repair machined or welded parts. I know several small companies who used to do this type of work but they have now given up on it. I will not go into why here but they are sound economic and business reasons. A company I used to work for did this type of work (in addition to our main business). The main reason we gave it up was ridiculous customer behaviour and unrealistic expectations.

If you have a look in the for sale section you will see a restored Fantic 300 for £3,795. I don't want to insult the advertiser but to me spending all that money and effort on a restoration is excessive, particularly if you end up selling, rather than riding it. Your Bult is worth restoring but only up to a point, there are quite a few fully restored Bults up for sale (and have been or some time) at silly money. I would get your bike running, ride it a bit and sort any mechanical issues before stripping and painting (an easy job) it. The best way to prepare a frame for painting is bead or fine sand blasting followed by looking for cracks with a magnifying glass. If your sandblaster charges on a time basis it may be worth softening the paint with paint stripper before blasting.

http://hub.chainreactioncycles.com/latest-news/mtb/hopes-new-pro-4-hubs-first-look/ Hope video about hub making

2000 a year / 8 a day would seem to make sense (IF they can sell them). Even at quite a small net profit per bike that adds up to a useful bit of cash. Had to laugh at GG Motos claim "considered by many to be best trial bike of all time". A practice day with my friends is now more like a Beta owners club outing, wonder if any will return to GG?

When I first started (1970s and 80s) entering competitive motorsports entry fees were as follows. Trials about 1/2 to 3/4 of a typical houly rate MX about 1 to 1&1/4 of a typical hourly rate Karting 1 to 1&1/4 of a typical hourly rate Autograss 3/4 to 1 typical hourly rate Now Trials 1 to 2 times typical hourly rate MX (£40) 3 times typical houly rate Karting (£45) more than 3 times typical houly rate Autograss (£6 to £7) 1/2 typically hourly rate I know a major reason why Karting fees have increased is increased safety costs and investment in facilities. These do not apply to off road bike sports so why the excessive increases in entry fees.?

Comparing trials with MX is not really valid. In MX a couple of clicks on the rear damper or a change of 2.5 wt in the fork oil can make several seconds a lap difference. Make the same changes on a trials bike and it probably will not change the number of marks lost. Trials bikes capabilities are now so far ahead of most riders capabilities, having the suspension a bit off ideal hardly matters. If you are heavy putting on a stiffer rear spring is worthwhile because in most section where grip is important most of the weight is on the rear wheel. Generally not worth putting stiffer springs in the front end because you want them soft on uphill sections and easy to compress and complient in tight turns. If the bottom out on drop offs or crossing the fell raise the oil level a few mm and use a slightly thicker grade.

Yes there are purchasers waiting, but not me.

Condensation has been worse this winter because of the weather. Much of the time humidity has been near 100% meaning only a slight cooling is necessary to cause condensation. Basically what happens is that you metal objects cool to the lower temp usually at night then warmer damp air moves onto them and condensation occurs. In most sheds / garages a dehumidifier will not work and will cost a lot in electricity. JonV8's WD40 method is probably as good a way as any or put low kW heaters under any important equipment (welding sets). Even keeping the shed a few degrees above outside temp will stop most condensation. The lower the ambient temperature the less effective a dehumidifier is.

I once has a rider (175 yam) bring me his bike which would not start, compression felt a bit low. I suspected worn top end and asked how much oil do you put in your petrol? his reply " What do you mean, I put oil in there" he said pointing to the gearbox filler plug. Remarkably the bike had run for several weeks (since he bought it) with no oil in the fuel, the ratio getting weaker each time he topped the tank up. Turned out he had been riding the bike a bit hard, caused a partial seizure and burred some aluminium from piston onto rings. cleaned it all up, scraped out the ring grooves, compression restored and bike ran fine. Another funny incident I saw and could have happened on this post is kicking a bike over to blow out excess fuel can cause quite a big explosion, A friend burnt off his eyebrows and front of hair doing this. He had me kick the bike over whilst he looked under the tank to see if the plug was sparking - yes it was, what a bang.

What fuel:oil ratio are you running?

There are advantages and disadvantages to sealed bearings vs unsealed. Sealed bearings do not withstand high sustained RPM as well as unsealed. Very lean 80:1 fuel :oil ratios provide barely enough lubrication for unsealed bearings. Engines using unsealed bearings generally have an oil feed hole from the transfer port cut out in the crank case. If these holes is not there I would be very wary of fitting an unsealed bearing when the OEM bearing was sealed. On the evidence I have to date unsealed bearings usually last a lot longer than sealed bearings, however I have known unsealed bearings fail in under a year (probably due to water ingress) whereas I have never known a sealed bearing to fail at under 4 years.

If you bike had "hydrolocked" you would not have been able to kick it over. If the excess fuel in the crankcase had damaged the seal it would almost certainly not idle steadily. The grey much in your gearbox has probably been there a long time, its a mix of fine metal particles and clutch lining. The stuff that gives the cloud effect in the oil is aluminium dust from the clutch plates. It will have settled out and sort of turned into a gum. Each time you put new oil in it the additives in the new oil dissolve some of it and the oil turns dark. Your gearbox will need several flushings with either flushing oil of high detergent diesel engine oil to clean it out.

A bit before Sherco's time but how many 348 Monts did not have to have their frame welded?

Air filter would stay cleaner and be less likely to get water in it. A downdraft throttle body and inlet tract improves performance. Lowering fuel tank would lower C of G and improve handling.

I think you will find plenty of ships, trains and motocross bikes use 2 stroke engines. A Carburettored bike is currently leading the indoor WTC. I think its about time Honda moved to a downdraft inlet tract, this would enable them to put the air filter up where the fuel tank is and put the fuel tank low down in the centre of the bike.

http://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-antifreeze-and-coolant/2731-long-life-anti-freeze-antifreeze/ The above antifreeze can be mixed with other types also Smith and Allen support the Scott.

If you never use the outer part of the lever you may as well shorten them, makes them less likely to be broken in a crash. Just cut out the unwanted length and re weld the ball on.