lowbrow

I don't know the answer to your question, but would have expected your bike to have the same crankcases as the larger capacity bikes. Have you tried comparing part numbers from different years? You can find a link to the parts books on Shirty's site or here http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals.html

I think you'll find the spacer is actually a sleeve to reduce the ID of the standard bearings to the smaller diameter of the Tech wheel spindle. On my Jotagas the sleeve is installed from the opposite side to the disc; there's nothing to space the disc side of the hub away from the fork leg and the disc and calliper line up perfectly. So provided your disc and calliper are in alignment surely it's just a matter of tweaking a few nipples if your rim isn't central?

Welcome to the forum! It'll be a 2 stroke motor so you'll need to mix two stroke oil with the petrol. Enjoy!

Jotagas factory website appears to have disappeared, so don't expect any announcement via that. Anyone know who or what is the RG Trial Team that Sheppard is riding for?

Andy You'll find a link to one here http://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/jgas-jotagas-parts-and-service-manuals.html

Cheers for the additional info' Sparks. I struggled to sell it in 1972. It would've been a good investment if I'd kept it, but I just had to have a Sherpa at the time.

Sparks, I think you've just described my first trails bike, or maybe it's just a coincidence? It had a Bultaco frame that had been immersed in a nickel bath for five minutes; a polished alloy tank and side panels similar to those on Helm's bike, and a Villiers 37A motor with square alloy barrel and IRZ carb. The hubs were massive and the back rim was 19 inch! Forks were Bultaco and perhaps if I knew then what I think I know now it might've been okay, but it was gutless and a pig to start. I was told that the original owner had assembled it as a 'special' but in those days before auto-jumble sales and Internet auction sites I always wondered how he'd collected such an eclectic mix of bits. The idea that they all came out of Sammy Miller's emporium makes perfect sense of it all.

It's pick and pull and it's packed in there tight too. Very long-nosed pliers are required before the perforated tube will come loose. The tube is bent too, so no alternative but to re-insert before packing new stuff around it.

I've repacked the rear section to good effect, but you're not talking about that are you? If you want to repack the front section of the silencer it will be a cut and shut job.

It's hard to get a Dellorto to run really clean off the bottom and some people like that because it helps the bike to grip. The Dellorto is also more of a fit and forget carb' because it has relatively large orifices, which means it tends to stay in tune and doesn't need so much adjustment, cleaning or maintenance. The Keihin on the other hand, if properly set up is much cleaner off the bottom and generally makes the bike feel snappier, more responsive throughout the range and with more top end. The Keihin is much more sensitive to atmospheric conditions than the Dellorto and thus may require regular minor mixture adjustments, which some folk find troublesome. The Keihin also demands more maintenance and is not so tolerant of being neglected. I switched to a Keihin years ago and wouldn't go back.

From the photo it looks like the needle valve has been inserted from the venturi, when it should've been fitted from beneath, before the atomiser/main jet holder which holds it firmly in place. Make sure you install the needle jet the correct way up too.

Stumbled upon this, which perhaps might be of interest to some of you collectors out there? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EX-JACK-MATHEWS-CHAMPIONSHIP-WINNING-1972-CCM-500cc-B50-MX-TRIALS-WITH-SIDECAR-/321753214284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ae9fc6d4c

Anybody servicing Formula brakes or Tech forks can find useful information at http://www.formula-italy.com/en/support-moto-manuals

Isn't it just paint runs from when they painted the hubs? I must say it's all very pretty.

Trialtrial, please post a pic of the carb mounted on your bike. I'm curious about how you route the overflow pipe from the bottom of the floatbowl.

So can you please explain why (several) importers who have invested considerable time, money and effort promoting the Jotagas brand would now abandon selling a bike that is virtually fully sorted and in demand for another marque that is little more than an image on a computer screen? If the factory is still manufacturing bikes surely one can only conclude that the problem must be the Jotagas business model.

Keen to cash in on the pink pound Ikea are developing a range of furniture for gays and lesbians. Already available is a special bed for lesbians. Self assembly, but no screwing involved - it's all tongue and groove!

Now all the fancy theories have been dismissed perhaps you'll listen to what I have already told you? The floats became stuck and cut off the fuel supply to the float bowl. It's not common, but has happened to me and used to happen sometimes during the road sections of the SSDT back in the day when most bikes had Dellorto carbs. The remedy isn't generally necessary for a trials bike because it doesn't happen that often, however you can replace the individual floats with a double float assembly (Part No 9010) but to do this you'll also need to change the float bowl. After my Pampera died in precisely the same way as you describe I was tipped off about this problem by a former British Champion and multi SSDT winner. I purchased the double floats and a clear plastic float bowl (Part No 3014909) all available from Eurocarb Limited, and it never happened again. If you have any doubts you could just ride the bike with the fuel turned off to replicate your earlier experience, but I wouldn't recommend it. Unless you're unlucky or use the bike for your daily commute it'll probably never do it again .

Dellorto carb? If so it's fuel starvation due to the floats sticking 'up' on the two guide pins. Won't happen off road due to the bumpy ride shaking the floats about.

Sheffield X Trial scheduled to be shown by Motors TV at 22.00pm on 15th January.

If it's not too bad i.e. just the rim flanges are bent and the wheel is still round, I have had some success in the past pinching the dinged section between two pieces of wood in a large vice. Don't try to do it all at once.

Wouldn't that be living in the past?

GasGas stopped using needle bearings about 10 years ago. Provided there is no lateral movement in the swinging arm just clean and grease the bushes before re-assembly. The bushes are pressed into the swinging arm and are not easy to remove and replace unless you have the right tools. They definitely shouldn't rotate in the swinging arm.

I was going to say don't let her get too hot, but if you follow your usual routine of stopping regularly for a roll-up this won't happen. Looking forward to seeing you out on the beast soon. Cheers, Dave

Mark Stronger springs have got to be the way to go. If I owned a Sherco and had a problem or needed advice the first person I'd ask (in the UK) is Chris Pearson at Splatshop. He has a number of options available http://www.splatshop.co.uk/performance-parts/suspension.html