lowbrow

The shock shouldn't be damaged which ever way up it is. I don't know if it was the only year it was used but the 2000TXT had a yellow multi-rate spring which was tapered having narrower coils at the bottom. If someone has fitted a parallel spring its possible that they had to invert the shock to fit it to the bike. When I uprated my spring I had to have a new extended collar made up to clear the bottom linkage. I've still got the original spring if you need one.

Anybody know if Raga is actually using the Reiger shock? He was using a Showa last year.

Yes

He's a big bloke that Bruno Camozzi; would you want to ask him to speak anything but his native French?

Hi Lian, I agree everything seems okay in your photo's so it looks like you've got two choices; strip it down until you find something bent/worn/broken or lean more to the right when you wheelie

As you say a bent wheel won't produce this result so you must have bent something else, most probably the swinging arm. Magnesium is not as strong as aluminium. I'd take the swinging arm off and lay it on a piece of plate glass to check for straightness and after that its the frame! What have you been up to Lian?

Surely intended as little puffer ports which also help to circulate gases under the piston crown to keep it cooler than it otherwise would be? Its a long time ago, but I'm certain that these ports on my 76 325 were in the right place to give a little extra 'puff' at BDC.

While you have the coolant drained down I'd also change the 'O' rings that seal the head to the barrel so you know everything is good.

Scheduled for 17.30 Thursday 7th June. I only watch it for the scenery and the interviews!

TFR traffic film remover from most motor factors commonly used for washing lorries is pretty cheap and you dilute it to suit your needs. Some are more aluminium friendly than others. Comma is okay.

Yes, take the carb off, give it a good clean, remove the jets and blow everything thing through with carb cleaner and an air line. Check the float height. Its a long time since I looked at a Dellorto, but I think the brass arms should be parallel with the float chamber face when the carb is inverted. Also make sure the floats actually float! Take the choke plunger out too and make sure there's no muck in there and that it moves easily in the carb body and the rubber sealing face at the bottom of the plunger is good. Its not necessary to dismantle the slide and needle, but just make sure the needle is held firmly in position in the slide. If the needle can be pushed up inside the slide (and it doesn't return due to spring pressure) its been assembled incorrectly. Whilst the carb is off take a good look at the inlet rubber and make sure it isn't too stretched or perished; you don't want any air leaks there. Hope this helps. Enjoy!

Hi Richard, there are so many things that could be causing this, but first things first I hope you've washed the air filter, re-oiled it and put it back? The fact that it was filthy shows how necessary it is, especially for stopping dust in the summer. Also what you're calling the 'float' is known as the 'slide'. The floats are in the bottom of the carb and control how much fuel enters the carb, and I'm wondering if this is your problem because it sounds like the motor is flooding while you take a break. Do you turn the fuel off or leave it on? If the bike runs okay until you park it, turn the fuel off until you get back on. If the bike runs okay afterwards then you will know that the fuel valve controlled by the floats is not shutting off as it should. Try that and see what happens. Come back if you need more help. Dave

Its a pity they don't make the idler gear so it can be cleaned up, turned around and given a second life. I damaged one when I dropped the bike; the kickstart rotated and tried to engage when the motor was running!

GasGas UK always used to sell uprated springs; have you tried them?

Try Roper Welding Services. 01285 861031. This old boy has a lifetime of experience and there's not much he doesn't know or can't do. He's got a unit in Ashton Keynes between Cirencester and Swindon if that's anywhere near handy for you?

You need to install it.

I guess its easy enough to check using a meter in line somewhere, but don't know what the output readings from the coil should be although a search of this forum might turn something up or your dealer may have the data. If you're worried then test it for peace of mind but I've always found that the fan speeds up as the revs rise until the rectifier stops it getting too much juice. Are you saying that the fan won't run until you rev the motor? If yes, then I'd agree there's something wrong.

Its just that the generator coil doesn't produce enough umph at low revs; quite normal.

Every GasGas I've owned has done this. Why do you think its a problem?

Clearly its running very weak. I'd clean out the carb, remove jets and blow everything through with an air line. Make sure the float level is correct and that fuel is entering the carb through the float needle valve. Having done that I'd check for what I reckon is the most likely cause of your problem; an air leak on the intake side of the carb. Has the inlet rubber split or become so mis-shaped that it leaks? Are the gaskets between the inlet manifold, reedblock, spacer and crankcase all good? Try all that before you go changing jets or settings.

Bewdley are running a club trial on Thursday 9th June aimed at beginners. See TrialsCentral Calendar.

Take a look at the ACU Western Centre Website for more info' HERE

Other than the fact that insurers are willing to exploit where they can, can someone explain why some policies charge more for riding a trial? Insurance is about risk. A standard policy would allow me to commute into the centre of Gloucester or take my trials bike down the M5, but some on here say it doesn't cover me if I'm puttering down the country lanes of Herefordshire on a Sunday morning? The reason you guys are being charged more for 'competition' cover is that insurance companies don't know what a trial is. How are you 'competing' when you're riding on the road? It comes under social and pleasure as far as I can see. My policy excludes 'racing, pacemaking, speed trials or for competing in National British A or International rallies' so what's the problem there? Instead of getting into bed with the insurance industry the ACU could assist its members by enlightening insurers as to what taking part in a trial actually involves.

Just had my renewal from LV for my 300 GasGas. TPF&T cover for an over 50 rider with 3 years' no claims and £150 excess = £61.52

The bite point is determined by the thickness of the clutch plates or 'pack height' as it's known, but before tearing the case off check there's the correct level of fluid in the reservoir. If the bike is stationary and in gear with the clutch lever in, does the clutch gradually release on its own? If so you could have air in the hydraulics or more likely you need to check/replace the seals in the master cylinder and slave cylinder. Check the master cylinder first and if that's okay and you still have a problem then its time to take the case off and take a look inside.