lowbrow

You're paranoid! Stop thinking and go riding!

The timing isn't adjustable and the fact that the bike starts easily and runs okay indicates that the ignition side of things is fine. The fan is coming on and off which suggests the thermostat is okay too. There will be pressure in the radiator when its hot; that's normal too, but if its spits out coolant you've either overfilled the rad or the 'o' rings between the cylinder and head need replacing. I think you're dealing with a fault that's perceived, but not actual. Go ride and enjoy!

Seems a lot of trouble just to keep your nipples perky. A spray of WD40 after every ride not good enough? The Beta's have nice nipples but I don't know if they fit GasGas spokes.

I could never get the Bing to work in 1976 and swapped the carb for a 28mm square Amal which was very responsive to adjustment. Once heard the Bing described as 'a metered leak' and thought that spot on. On a more positive note, the main jet does effect slow running on these things. The float height is very important too, but I have no recent experience, thank goodness! I also believe Amal monoblock main jets fit and offer smaller steps between sizes. I once watched a practice session with Lampkin, Rathmell and Coutard where Reg May was swapping main jets to get the mixture right off the bottom.

I've had the same experience as Lumpylion. The cobbler said he'd never do it again because he had to grind the old sole off. He did a good job, but the new soles started coming away at the front and I gave up and got new boots soon after.

I wasn't there but from what you describe it could have been one of Steve Wilson's specials. Was the fuel tank the airbox and the airbox the fuel tank like a JCM, the latest Sherco or the new Ossa?

A great shame indeed, but respect to Joanne and Paul for keeping things in perspective. I hope Joanne continues to enjoy trials for what it is, a sport rather than a wise career choice.

I had an o2 280 and had no problems with it, but even then I was an old fart with a high degree of mechanical sympathy. If this bike had been in continuous use any bugs would've been sorted by now, but one with only 10 hours on it could still be a ticking bomb. Only difference between now and 2002 is the availability of second hand parts, so if you're good with the spanners yourself it might be worth taking a chance.

Don't know of a dedicated trials bike breaker, but you see these things come up on auction sites from time to time so you may have some luck there or maybe someone on this site has a spare they no longer need? Why not post a wanted ad'? Happy New Year!

Yep, the frame changed in 2009 for the 2010 model, but the tank, airbox, exhaust, etc remained the same until the latest model.

The crankcases have not changed. Frames, plastics, cycle parts, etc have been modified and updated but bikes made before the 2011 frame change are fundamentally the same as yours.

You need to replace the two rubber 'O' rings that seal the water jacket between the cylinder and cylinder head. When these 'give up' the cooling system is pressurised and gives the symptoms you describe. A fairly easy job; no need to remove the cylinder, just the head.

About twelve and a half quid?

Feel for you mate. Hope things turn around soon.

Hold the carb upside down and lift the float bowl off. It has to come off at a bit of an angle, but it'll be obvious to you. Be careful not to bend anything when you put it back on and make sure the floats still move by giving the carb a gently shake before you put it back on the bike.

When you have the choke on all it is doing is richening the mixture at idle because when you open the throttle the choke ceases to work. The choke sucks fuel from the bottom of the float bowl. Are your floats adjusted correctly? I'm wondering if the float level is way too low. Something you should also check is for air leaks between the carb and the motor. There are several joints; between the reed block and crankcase; the reed block and inlet manifold, and the rubber inlet manifold itself can split (usually round the back where you can't see!). If its not the float level I'd be inclined to take the reed block out, check everything and reassemble with new gaskets and a smear of sillicone jointing compound.

Never had a 200 but for Dellorto carbs 3 to 3.5 turns out seems to the starting point for the mixture screw and fine tune from there. Have you taken the jets out and blown them and the carb body through with an air line? A good squirt of carb cleaner followed by an air line is a good idea. From what you describe it sounds like the pilot (fuel) circuit has some muck in it making it too lean to run.

Are you saying that you've screwed the tickover screw in to lift the slide enough to make the bike idle, but it won't run slowly?

As Shirty's No1 rider too!??

The Western Centre 2011 dates may be 'already confirmed' but where are they to be found?

Am I right in thinking that Dougie DNF'd the Scott last year too with a mechanical failure?

As long as you've got the correct level of fluid in the reservoir and clearance on the lever these things self bleed. If you open the bleed nipple you're likely to cause yourself grief. Turn the handlebars to full right hand lock (so the lever is the highest part of the system) and gently pull the lever in and out; just move the end of the lever no more than an inch. If you take the top off the reservoir, and the system does need bleeding, you will see minute bubbles in the fluid with each stroke of the lever until the job is done. Which side did your son drop the bike on? If he dropped it on the clutch side the impact may have loosened the banjo connecting the clutch hose to the top of the case. If this is the problem just tightening may not fix it and you might need to replace the copper washers either side of the banjo itself.

The choke circuit only works if the throttle is closed and its common for folks to unwittingly open the throttle in their efforts to kick a Pro into life. Try holding the bars on the right side of the bike instead of the throttle grip. Standing on the bike when its leaning against a van, tree, wall, etc also makes things easier, as others have already said.

Hold it flat out down the local by-pass. By the time the smoke screen you lay down is sufficiently thin that other road users are able to see to overtake you the middle box should be nice and clean

As things stand Jack will be Beta's only rider for the indoor championship.